Husqvarna 266se

[subhunter]

I ran two strips of solder across the piston, one intake to exaust the other side to side. Secured them with masking tape and bolted the jug up then turned it over. The .029 was at the exaust and was the smallest number. The two sides were both right at .033 and the intake was at .030. But I thought they were all within tolerance.I am hoping this turns out well.

On another subject, today I called the husqvarna dealer I like to visit the most ( a local Co Op) and kindly ask if they had the tools to do a vacuum and or pressure test on a saw. He said yea bring it on up I can check the compression for you. I said no I have a compression tester, I need to test the crankcase for any air leaks. Would you believe he had no clue as to what I was talking about and then said they had no such tools.:bang: I had a el cheapo HF brake bleeder but today I went to use it and it would no longer pull a vacuum.

 

[almondgt]

I put a slight camfer on the edges and they seem nice and smooth. At first I had them kinda sharp and had to work them more. The .029 was with out the gasket. I am about to put the jug back on now.

Are you going to use the 2 piston pin retainer clips that came with the meteor piston? I have read most people prefer to use oem clips. As far as that goes some even say to put in an oem ring and oem piston pin on the meteor piston. If you replaced the crankcase gasket, both crank seals you should be relatively safe in firing that saw up with the top end parts you decide to install. Make sure carb/carb gaskets are all good and everything is tightly secured. Is there an A or AB or B designation stamped on the top of your cylinder and is the piston marked with any letter/s?
Just wondering........:chainsawguy:

 

[subhunter]

Yes I used the two clips and the wrist pin. I have not really read any bad on the meteor pistons. I looked it over to make sure the end of the wrist pin wasn't tapered, it was flat. I did think to use the set of OEM clips but I thought they seemed plenty of stiff and springy. Only time will tell I guess........

Now I am wondering should I pull the jug back off and use the two new clips I already have??:taped::taped:

Edit: piston had AB etched into it and the top of the jug confused me a bit....

 

[almondgt]

Yes I used the two clips and the wrist pin. I have not really read any bad on the meteor pistons. I looked it over to make sure the end of the wrist pin wasn't tapered, it was flat. I did think to use the set of OEM clips but I thought they seemed plenty of stiff and springy. Only time will tell I guess........

Now I am wondering should I pull the jug back off and use the two new clips I already have??:taped::taped:

Retracted my comment as Cantdogs post regarding piston clips later on makes sense.
:chainsawguy:

 

[Cantdog]

I ran two strips of solder across the piston, one intake to exaust the other side to side. Secured them with masking tape and bolted the jug up then turned it over. The .029 was at the exaust and was the smallest number. The two sides were both right at .033 and the intake was at .030. But I thought they were all within tolerance.I am hoping this turns out well.

On another subject, today I called the husqvarna dealer I like to visit the most ( a local Co Op) and kindly ask if they had the tools to do a vacuum and or pressure test on a saw. He said yea bring it on up I can check the compression for you. I said no I have a compression tester, I need to test the crankcase for any air leaks. Would you believe he had no clue as to what I was talking about and then said they had no such tools.:bang: I had a el cheapo HF brake bleeder but today I went to use it and it would no longer pull a vacuum.

I'm sure it will be fine...the reason I asked is I always use meteor pistons and without a gasket they usually fall in 0.017"-0.021" range more or less so I was just wondering if your solder was all they way out to the edge of the piston. The squish band tapers up rather quickly from the outside...just seems large to me is all.

 

[almondgt]

Yes I used the two clips and the wrist pin. I have not really read any bad on the meteor pistons. I looked it over to make sure the end of the wrist pin wasn't tapered, it was flat. I did think to use the set of OEM clips but I thought they seemed plenty of stiff and springy. Only time will tell I guess........

Now I am wondering should I pull the jug back off and use the two new clips I already have??:taped::taped:

Edit: piston had AB etched into it and the top of the jug confused me a bit....

If your piston is marked AB you are good to go. Do both pistons you have on hand generally look the same in design? The meteor piston looks like a nice one. :chainsawguy:

 

[Cantdog]

The AB size code means that it will work in either A or B size cyls...happy medium so to speak. It's good.....

I wouldn't worry about the pin clips. As long as they were installed with the gap at 12:00 or 6:00 they will be fine. I would worry more using OEM clips in an aftermarket piston. The groves are machined to fit the clips the piston came with, not a different brand. Meteor and Episan are good quality Italian made pistons. I think you'll find the clip troubles show up more on pistons from the far east and people installing the clips incorrectly. Golf etc.

 

[subhunter]

I stand corrected

The clip thing had me worried as I have had some clips fail once with a golf piston so I took it back apart to use the new OEM clips. The piston only says B not AB. Should that still work? I measured using feeler gauge and it was nice and tight. No slop.

 

[almondgt]

The clip thing had me worried as I have had some clips fail once with a golf piston so I took it back apart to use the new OEM clips. The piston only says B not AB. Should that still work? I measured using feeler gauge and it was nice and tight. No slop.

Read Cantdogs post previous to this one. Makes sense so I retracted my comment. I personally have never used an aftermarket piston assembly. What marking A B does your old piston have on top? Do both pistons look the same? :chainsawguy:

 

[Cantdog]

You have a "B" sized cyl and a "B" sized piston. It doesn't get any better than that. Good to go. Personally I would use the clips that came with the Meteor for the afore mentioned reason. But do what you feel best with, just make sure the gaps are positioned correctly..

 

[subhunter]

Got it all finished today with some time to let it run as well. It popped on the first pull! and started on the second. I was impressed but what really impressed me was the compression number I got out of it. My gauge read 150 after the second pull and after 6 pulls

Are there and negative effects to having such high compression?


The thing that gets me is that it still has a bit of oil seeping through the split in the muffler. No where near the amount before but a small amount. I have it set rich but I haven't seen the oil seep out before this saw. I am going to run it and see how it goes.

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[almondgt]

The clip thing had me worried as I have had some clips fail once with a golf piston so I took it back apart to use the new OEM clips. The piston only says B not AB. Should that still work? I measured using feeler gauge and it was nice and tight. No slop.

Congrats! Sounds like you have a running saw. Time will tell how good your rebuild is. If she's running rich that is your excess oil leaking at the muffler. Couple tanks of fuel through the saw and lean the saw out some and that oil leakage will dissipate. Make sure your final adjustment on the H screw on the carb is at least 3/4 turn out from closed or you could melt your top end. One comment regarding your muffler. If that muffler comes apart in two halves straighten out the front half. You would be amazed how much better the entire unit will appear if you do it. One more comment. Pull start grip looks funny too. OEM in my book is the cats meow. Did you grease your clutch bearing? Did you grease your chainsaw bar tip?
:chainsawguy: