Husqvarna 266se

[jockeydeuce]

OK I just got the jug off and it is in very nice shape. What has me confused :monkey:
is the FW side had the three screws holding a plastic piece on. It seems to me that is where my seal is on the FW side and the PTO side it is in the oil pump. (Bear with me as this is my first time replacing seals and splitting the case) How do the seals come out of the pump and the plastic triangle?

Also I tried to go ahead and split the case with the 2 jaw puller and the piece of steel I have. It seemed as if I was putting a whole lot of pressure on the crank. Is this normal? and did I miss those pins or what??

THANKS AGAIN GUYS FOR ALL THE GUIDANCE!!! :yourock:

If you've got the type with the plastic seal holder, that's a bonus!!! Way easier to change the seal. Just pry the triangle shaped seal holder out and the seal will drive out the back side.....Make sure you support that plastic holder well when you remove the seal so it doesn't break.

There are SEVEN screws holding the crankcase together......4 under the oil pump, 2 that also retain the inner falling spike and 1 short one at the rear by the ignition switch......A little heat with a heat gun around the bearing area helps when you're splitting the cases.....There are two short dowels, but you can't drive them out like a Stihl.

 

[subhunter]

Thanks Jockey. I guess I got all the screws out then as I had 7. I will give it another try. SO the dowels cant be driven out. Glad to know that. One last question... how do you keep the puller straight on the crank? I am having a hard time and I dont want to put the stress on the crank from an angle like it keeps wanting to do.

 

[subhunter]

I got the case split now just waiting on parts. The bearings are smooth as silk. The last thing left to get for this saw is a new piston. The old one looks to be worn, showing no signs of machine marks and a bright scuff/streak down the exaust side. I was hoping not to have to get one as the compression was at 170 before I took it apart.

 

[272super]

I got the case split now just waiting on parts. The bearings are smooth as silk. The last thing left to get for this saw is a new piston. The old one looks to be worn, showing no signs of machine marks and a bright scuff/streak down the exaust side. I was hoping not to have to get one as the compression was at 170 before I took it apart.

Just curious,if the bearings are good why did you split the case? Between that and replacing the gasket there isn't much reason to split them.

 

[subhunter]

Well it had a bad oil leak where it was losing a lot through the muffler when running.
I wasnt sure if the gasket was bad but after I got it split I could tell it was likely bad as it was just a few small pieces left at the oil tank. This was a project saw that had been sitting in my wifes uncles barn for a while. He said he had bought it new but it hadnt been running in a year or two. Id say longer...

 

[subhunter]

Parts should be in today!

So I am told the parts should be here today(minus the new piston).I have a few questions before I try to get the case put back together.

1)Is there any special trick to getting my case back together?
2)DO I use permatex or other in addition to the crankcase gasket?
any other tips/tricks to getting the seals in place or anything anyone can think of?
OR am I just making this too difficult by over thinking?

I have read that you can take two or three small pieces of pipe to help pull the case halves back together using the clutch. I have cut some and think it may work but some inspiration for a first timer is ALWAYS appreciated!:hmm3grin2orange:

 

[almondgt]

So I am told the parts should be here today(minus the new piston).I have a few questions before I try to get the case put back together.

1)Is there any special trick to getting my case back together?
2)DO I use permatex or other in addition to the crankcase gasket?
any other tips/tricks to getting the seals in place or anything anyone can think of?
OR am I just making this too difficult by over thinking?

I have read that you can take two or three small pieces of pipe to help pull the case halves back together using the clutch. I have cut some and think it may work but some inspiration for a first timer is ALWAYS appreciated!:hmm3grin2orange:

First off, I think you made the right choice to split the crankcase. Clean the crankcase halves carefully/spotlessly. Assuming both your bearings are on the crankshaft follow this: Do one side at a time. Keep the crankshaft cold in the garage, warm up the crankcase halves near a wood stove. Warm the halves the warmest your hands can handle. Crankshaft/bearing should drop in easily if done correctly. Crankcase gasket is installed dry, no adhesives. Spread 2 stroke oil lightly inside the crankcase halves and outside of the bearings and be careful not to over do it so no oil gets on the crankcase gasket. If the bearings are still in the crankcase then I would 2 stroke oil the friction parts to be assembled. Again warm the crankcase half and keep the crank cold. Work carefully but relatively quickly. Don't damage the crankcase gasket in any way. Make sure your crankcase mating surfaces have no damage. How does your piston fit inside your cylinder with the ring removed from the piston? Should fit like a glove with no slop or play any which way. Make sure your arrow marked on the piston top is pointing to exhaust side of cylinder when testing you piston. Do you have pictures of piston available from both sides(intake and exhaust):chainsawguy:

 

[subhunter]

The old piston is not going to be used. It had no machine marks left and the ring end gap was out of this world wide.

I left the crank in the fw side of the case thinking that would be easiest since the bearings were still smooth as silk. I scraped the case halves with a razor to remove the debris and old gasket and it is nice and clean.


By spread the oil on the case halves and over all the case halves but leave the gasket oil-less? kinda confused me but I see what you mean. Also should I heat the PTO side and leave the crank and the FW side cold?

 

[almondgt]

The old piston is not going to be used. It had no machine marks left and the ring end gap was out of this world wide.

I left the crank in the fw side of the case thinking that would be easiest since the bearings were still smooth as silk. I scraped the case halves with a razor to remove the debris and old gasket and it is nice and clean.


By spread the oil on the case halves and over all the case halves but leave the gasket oil-less? kinda confused me but I see what you mean. Also should I heat the PTO side and leave the crank and the FW side cold?

Sorry about the oil bit. 2 stroke oil on the crankshaft area to be installed and inside the case half hole where the bearing rests and or oil inside the bearing hole. No oil anywhere else. Keep hands clean and dry to the best of your ability. If piston/ring are so worn I can't see how you got such a high compression reading. :chainsawguy:

Also should I heat the PTO side and leave the crank and the FW side cold? YES
As well, as long as you can get the two crankcase halves close together you can use the case screws tightened evenly to finish. Tighten evenly at all 7 locations so you don't damage threads in the case.

 

[subhunter]

The piston fits tightly like it should in the jug it just is really worn with no machine marks at all and also some scoring on both sides. I think it has injested some saw dust at some point as the elbow the filter mounts to had a large chip,about the size of a pencil eraser, missing from it. I fixed it with JB weld. The exaust side looks way worse than it was but a new piston was still in store at this point.
I was also suprised with the compression reading after I checked the end gap and seen the piston out of the jug.


intake

exaust

ring end gap was .069

 

[almondgt]

The piston fits tightly like it should in the jug it just is really worn with no machine marks at all and also some scoring on both sides. I think it has injested some saw dust at some point as the elbow the filter mounts to had a large chip,about the size of a pencil eraser, missing from it. I fixed it with JB weld. The exaust side looks way worse than it was but a new piston was still in store at this point.
I was also suprised with the compression reading after I checked the end gap and seen the piston out of the jug.


intake

exaust

ring end gap was .069

If the piston fit in the cylinder is as you describe I would replace the piston ring with a new ring and run it. Carefully check the cylinder for any imperfections and deal with them best you can. That way you will save on the cost of a piston for now and be able to test the quality of your work restoring the crankcase. Machine marks on the piston are not that critical as you presume they are. I would hate to put in a new piston and burn it up due to a small error in the rebuild. :chainsawguy:
Do you have the black rubber gasket between the air cleaner support and air cleaner element in place? That seal is crucial in keeping debris out of the carb system.

 

[subhunter]

a SMALL issue

I got the case pulled back together. Heated half and left the other out side for a few hours and it almost fell together. I got the FW side seal installed but my problem I am having is I cant remember how the seal went into the oil pump. The seal seems too big to go in and I am not wanting to put alot of force on the seal or pump

 

[Cantdog]

I find it easier for me to remove the pump body from the case, then remove the gear and shaft from the pump. Then install the seal, the shaft and gear and reinstall the whole thing into the case. Rember to use a new o-ring to seal the housing to the case.

 

[almondgt]

I got the case pulled back together. Heated half and left the other out side for a few hours and it almost fell together. I got the FW side seal installed but my problem I am having is I cant remember how the seal went into the oil pump. The seal seems too big to go in and I am not wanting to put alot of force on the seal or pump

Use a flat surface with a piece of cardboard/rag on top of that surface to protect the oil pump. Find the best deep socket that matches the size of the seal for tapping the seal into place. Use the bottom or closed end of the socket for the flatest surface to tap the seal into place. Pay attention to the size of the socket once the seal becomes flush with the oil pump surface, you may need a smaller deep socket to drive the seal deeper. I always use some 2 stoke oil around the outside of the seal and some oil inside the oil pump where the seal will rest. Oil helps or not, I just do it. The seal needs to face out with the exposed rubber/spring facing into the crankcase. Tap the seal in until the seal is approximately 1/16" below the oil pump surface. Don't go in too far, don't leave the seal flush with the surface of the oil pump. Use care when you do the above mentioned. Make sure your little black rubber tube is in place in the rear of the oil pump prior to assembly in the crankcase.
:chainsawguy:

 

[subhunter]

Thanks!

I got it to seat in there with some oil, a small piece of pipe and the rubber mallet.
this is just all new to me and I am not wanting to screw it up. I got the clutch and FW back on now and just waiting on the piston from Greece.

 

[subhunter]

The piston finally came in from Greece. I thought it was going to be a Episan but it turned out to be a meteor. I massaged the piston a bit before putting it on the rod.
The cylinder seemed as if it could be widened quite a lot and I opened it up some. I use the dremel and some small needle files to grind the ports. I left the transfers alone. This is my third jug to grind on and it doesnt look that great but I am hoping that it runs pretty good.
Critics please?
best pic I could get of EX

intake

squish

 

[jockeydeuce]

Can't tell from your pics, but make sure you put a chamfer back on the inside of those ports where you widened them....You don't want to catch the edge of a ring.

Is that .029 squish with a gasket or without?

 

[subhunter]

I put a slight camfer on the edges and they seem nice and smooth. At first I had them kinda sharp and had to work them more. The .029 was with out the gasket. I am about to put the jug back on now.

 

[jockeydeuce]

I put a slight camfer on the edges and they seem nice and smooth. At first I had them kinda sharp and had to work them more. The .029 was with out the gasket. I am about to put the jug back on now.

Wow! That's still pretty wide on the squish without a gasket....You're well into the safe zone going gasketless.

 

[Cantdog]

Looking good.....HMMM that squish seems a bit large for no gasket but it is what it is.....are you sure that the solder was at the exact edge of the piston?