Tyler Keniston
ArboristSite Lurker
So I figured I would post a couple pics of the bearing replacement on a 357xp. I am posting them because I had trouble finding detailed shots of the crank reassembly in the manner I wanted to do it (using mallets to whack stuff around scares me a bit). I wanted to essentially do it according to manual, but without the specialty tools.
To split, I used square stock with holes drilled through to attach to bar studs, and a harbor freight gear puller I through one hole, you can see part of it sticking out the left side. The crank stuffers on the 357 wouldn't allow the tradition husky tool to be used anyways.
I installed the new bearings in each case half using heat (in an oven for a bit, then a final blast with a heat gun. Also froze the bearings). I learned on the first one that quite a bit of heat it needed.
I then pushed the clutch side bearing onto the crank by pushing on the inner race only using spacers and the clutch. The left most item is a steel spacer (most to any hardware store item) that is about the ID of the bearing. The washers were added when the clutch bottomed out and needed more distance to continue pushing. I was able to keep the crank from turning by wedging my hand around the con rod between the piston and cylinder mating surface.
Same deal on flywheel side, adding washers when the threads ran out. I went back to the clutch side to finish in order to center the crank better.
Used this little red piston holder to prevent crank from turning. Then finally installed case screws to torque. No bearing binding at all. No whacking with a mallet/hammer. Obviously lots of ways to skin this cat. This obviously isn't a new approach either, just wanted to share some photos.
I do have a few questions. How many of you use an actual torque wrench on saws? If so I assume its a small NM style one and not a big ol torque bar (that all I have and seems way overkill).
An for the seals... I understand some lube on the crank and rubber parts, but what about the outer parts. I've heard some say to use a sealant (yamabond or equivalent). Or dry? Or oil?
To split, I used square stock with holes drilled through to attach to bar studs, and a harbor freight gear puller I through one hole, you can see part of it sticking out the left side. The crank stuffers on the 357 wouldn't allow the tradition husky tool to be used anyways.
I installed the new bearings in each case half using heat (in an oven for a bit, then a final blast with a heat gun. Also froze the bearings). I learned on the first one that quite a bit of heat it needed.
I then pushed the clutch side bearing onto the crank by pushing on the inner race only using spacers and the clutch. The left most item is a steel spacer (most to any hardware store item) that is about the ID of the bearing. The washers were added when the clutch bottomed out and needed more distance to continue pushing. I was able to keep the crank from turning by wedging my hand around the con rod between the piston and cylinder mating surface.
Same deal on flywheel side, adding washers when the threads ran out. I went back to the clutch side to finish in order to center the crank better.
Used this little red piston holder to prevent crank from turning. Then finally installed case screws to torque. No bearing binding at all. No whacking with a mallet/hammer. Obviously lots of ways to skin this cat. This obviously isn't a new approach either, just wanted to share some photos.
I do have a few questions. How many of you use an actual torque wrench on saws? If so I assume its a small NM style one and not a big ol torque bar (that all I have and seems way overkill).
An for the seals... I understand some lube on the crank and rubber parts, but what about the outer parts. I've heard some say to use a sealant (yamabond or equivalent). Or dry? Or oil?
