Huztl FarmerTec 070 Build Thread with upgrade info and completed saw

[Leafy]

How can a nut not get tight enough? Unless it's so soft if metal it's actually deforming or it's supposed to have a relief in it to prevent bottoming that isn't they're I can't see it.

 

[Bedford T]

How can a nut not get tight enough? Unless it's so soft if metal it's actually deforming or it's supposed to have a relief in it to prevent bottoming that isn't they're I can't see it.

I can't answer that question. I have no idea what makes a nut a good nut. I can just tell you that if you use an OEM nut installed properly that won't happen. I'm no engineer I don't know any engineers.

chainsaw kits and packing lists
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[Phramer Phil]

How can a nut not get tight enough? Unless it's so soft if metal it's actually deforming or it's supposed to have a relief in it to prevent bottoming that isn't they're I can't see it.

W/o getting too complicated it has to do with the class of thread fit, torque and creating enough stretch (aka preload) between the crank and nut that will keep things clamped together. Loctite is great and all, but one should not have to rely on a band-aid fix to keep something like a clutch or a flywheel from coming loose.

Bedford is correct, the provided clutch (and flywheel) nuts do not have the either correct material spec or thread fit class to be of much use. I could've sworn that I read to only replace the clutch nut with OEM... Oh well, live and learn.

FWIW, I'm fairly certain that the crankshaft washers are micarta, not leather.

 

[Phramer Phil]

Threw on a 41" bar and 404 and milled a bunch of +30" red cedar yesterday. The power and torque is awesome! I wish I had purchased this years ago.

Notes: This thing vibrates and shakes a lot. One of the oil tank bolts backed out along with one of the exhaust studs despite being properly torqued and treated with Rocksett. After 1 freehand test cut I have absolutely no desire to try and drop or buck a tree with one.

large displacement = big power = lotsa heat, I melted the spark plug boot.

The 2 front cylinder head bolts broke off on the 2nd to last slab left. Finished the job with my '66.

Despite these hiccups, I am very impressed by the performance of the powerhead and chain combo.

 

[user 164081]

Hello Bedford T, I just read your warning about the Farmertec 070 kit and the fuel port. I just bought a kit 2 weeks ago. What do I need to look for? Also I have assembled over half the saw. Thanks for the videos! A super help. I also subscribed!

 

[Mark Price2]

I just built one of the Chinese 090 clones and from what I saw (no pun intended) it was not bad, but the Decompression valve look a bit suspect. Has anyone changed to valve over to a Stihl 066 decompression valve? Looks like it would only require a 10x1.5 MM bolt tapped out to 10X1mm to sleeve the existing decompression valve and then re-drilling the cover to accommodate the new location. Anyone's thoughts?

 

[Bedford T]

Hello Bedford T, I just read your warning about the Farmertec 070 kit and the fuel port. I just bought a kit 2 weeks ago. What do I need to look for? Also I have assembled over half the saw. Thanks for the videos! A super help. I also subscribed!

Sorry I did not see your post. I visit much less often. You can reach me anytime through youtube.

http://thechainsawkitguy.com
https://youtube.com/the1chainsawguy

 

[Bedford T]

I just built one of the Chinese 090 clones and from what I saw (no pun intended) it was not bad, but the Decompression valve look a bit suspect. Has anyone changed to valve over to a Stihl 066 decompression valve? Looks like it would only require a 10x1.5 MM bolt tapped out to 10X1mm to sleeve the existing decompression valve and then re-drilling the cover to accommodate the new location. Anyone's thoughts?

I would change the decompression valve out with a oem 070/090 valve. On these you do it with the top off. The compression is much greater that a 660. I did a recent video on changes that should be made to keep your saw in top shape. That is one of the changes and adding a crush washer. I will post the video below



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https://youtube.com/the1chainsawguy

 

[Justsaws]

The decomp from a Stihl 660 or a Husqvarna 395 do not allow enough air to move. They will snap shut before the piston is pulled over, everytime.

 

[67L36Driver]

The decomp from a Stihl 660 or a Husqvarna 395 do not allow enough air to move. They will snap shut before the piston is pulled over, everytime.

I’ve drilled the bleed port oversized on several large Stihls. The latest being a MS460.

The MS880 being absolutely necessary. [emoji21]

We are an upper body strength challenged geezer. [emoji6]

 

[Mark Price2]

The decomp from a Stihl 660 or a Husqvarna 395 do not allow enough air to move. They will snap shut before the piston is pulled over, everytime.

Well i must be too bull headed once I get a plan in my mind. I went ahead and center drilled and tapped a 14 x 1.5 mm bolt, cut it off and had to file the last few outside threads down to the root diameter but it sealed great on the copper washer. I left a small hole at the end of the bolt and installed a 084 decompression valve in the bolt. Then I used JB Weld to fill the old decompression button hole in the cover and drilled a new one for the new decomp valve. Repainted the cover and well since I had gone to all that trouble I installed Stihl badges ( in 42 years I have never sold a saw and do not plan on starting now}. It looks good and is so much easier to start!! Yes I need to push the decomp each time I pull the cord but at least I do not have to try to hang on to it AND hold the button down at the same time. A great improvement and it starts on the second or third pull. I'll try to post a video of it running in a day or so once the clear coat is hard.

 

[Rags]

Well i must be too bull headed once I get a plan in my mind. I went ahead and center drilled and tapped a 14 x 1.5 mm bolt, cut it off and had to file the last few outside threads down to the root diameter but it sealed great on the copper washer. I left a small hole at the end of the bolt and installed a 084 decompression valve in the bolt. Then I used JB Weld to fill the old decompression button hole in the cover and drilled a new one for the new decomp valve. Repainted the cover and well since I had gone to all that trouble I installed Stihl badges ( in 42 years I have never sold a saw and do not plan on starting now}. It looks good and is so much easier to start!! Yes I need to push the decomp each time I pull the cord but at least I do not have to try to hang on to it AND hold the button down at the same time. A great improvement and it starts on the second or third pull. I'll try to post a video of it running in a day or so once the clear coat is hard.

View attachment 850702

I MUST say bravo Mike. I have 2 Yuzhoukee clones that I have been needing to get around to doing this same type of mod. to. One is still 105cc & the other has the 090 P&C. Thanks for beating me to it as far as the craft work of finding the right combo of parts & mods. to make this work.
Thanks again for the info & hope you have a great day.

 

[Mark Price2]

I MUST say bravo Mike. I have 2 Yuzhoukee clones that I have been needing to get around to doing this same type of mod. to. One is still 105cc & the other has the 090 P&C. Thanks for beating me to it as far as the craft work of finding the right combo of parts & mods. to make this work.
Thanks again for the info & hope you have a great day.

So here is what is behind the covers....

 

[Donnieol]

Hello guys, it's been a while since this thread has seen action so I thought I would ask a few questions, I only recently saw these saws, they are interesting and from the looks at some of the videos they look pretty well made. I'm looking at this as a hobby and might one day do some milling myself.
I tried to read the whole thread but I might have missed some things.

How do these stand now? I missed out on the $280.00 pre built ones at Holzffarma with free shipping - maybe they'll be back, the kits are $400.00? If the kits were cheap enough I would be willing to try it.
Is the consensus that these are worth buying or building?, I am buying at a G660 kit right now but I don't know if I could resist a new 070 copy for 280.

I saw several chinese factories that make these, is there any one that's better than the rest?

Thanks, I appreciate all the info and videos for all the saws.

Dave

 

[Bedford T]

I can only speak for myself, my experience is with FarmerTec. Yes it's worth it. After I built one or two I settled into the fact changes were needed to make it fun and dependable. If you are on a tight budget and only want to spend the very least you are gonna have problems. I mean after the purchase.

All the problems can be overcome. My website has part#s and gives feedback on what needs attention so building one is the only way you can get it done without a lot of trouble. http://the chainsawkitguy.com

Generally if you take your time and build it don't do much to it. It will work but it will soon begin to want to pull your arm off, literally and or the decomp pin will fall down and wreck your top end. Frequently the clutch falls apart simply because of vibration. Again all these these can be addressed and you will have a saw that is perfect for milling and nothing else because of the weight. But man can it cut. It's slow yet very powerful.

I heard they had a 880 down the road. Hope you have fun. I always do.

 

[Maintenance supervisor]

I simply don't care for a counterfeit product, regardless of what it is. That's exactly what these are.

https://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=340289

 

[Ted Jenkins]

I can only speak for myself, my experience is with FarmerTec. Yes it's worth it. After I built one or two I settled into the fact changes were needed to make it fun and dependable. If you are on a tight budget and only want to spend the very least you are gonna have problems. I mean after the purchase.

All the problems can be overcome. My website has part#s and gives feedback on what needs attention so building one is the only way you can get it done without a lot of trouble. http://the chainsawkitguy.com

Generally if you take your time and build it don't do much to it. It will work but it will soon begin to want to pull your arm off, literally and or the decomp pin will fall down and wreck your top end. Frequently the clutch falls apart simply because of vibration. Again all these these can be addressed and you will have a saw that is perfect for milling and nothing else because of the weight. But man can it cut. It's slow yet very powerful.

I heard they had a 880 down the road. Hope you have fun. I always do.

Bed now quit bashing my saws. The 070 is not a feather weight but it sure does get the job done. I bought genuine Stihl for many years with out takes any shortcuts. The saw line up kept getting pricey and less and less reliable. Bought my first 070 over five years ago and yes had some problems. The first biggest was the decomp valve. Some modifications were in order, has worked perfectly since. I will put it up against any thing currently made. Nothing can compare to it's reliability. I can change carburetors in the field in two hours or less. About the same time I can pull the carb put in a fresh kit and be running with out fuss. The newer 661 is lighter and fast but it pulls a smaller chain which needs more attention. It can not be worked on in the field so what value is it. Thanks

 

[2broke2ride]

I'm goingn to dredge up this thread again!!! I just pulled the trigger on the 070 parts kit. It will be my first build. I am.lookingnforward to the challenge. I have read all 50 pages of this thread as well as watching a bunch of the videos.
Have any of the earlier "problems" with missing and /or inferior parts been corrected by now?

 

[Bedford T]

Your question is hard to answer because besides this thread I don't know what you have seen. Parts can be a random problem based on the mold used in that run. My website has information on this kit and tells you what to replace to have a very good saw. The ignition information should be of interest to you because it'll jerk your arm off in short order. I cut a lot of wood with mine milling it's too heavy to fell with it. Good luck with your project the kits are a great way to learn.

 

[2broke2ride]

Your question is hard to answer because besides this thread I don't know what you have seen. Parts can be a random problem based on the mold used in that run. My website has information on this kit and tells you what to replace to have a very good saw. The ignition information should be of interest to you because it'll jerk your arm off in short order. I cut a lot of wood with mine milling it's too heavy to fell with it. Good luck with your project the kits are a great way to learn.

I was referencing things like the clutch nut and the decomp.......thanks for all the videos, I was up until 1am watching the whole series lol.