Huztl / Farmertec ms 440

Rugged made
Wesspur
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Ozhoo said:
Holy hell, I've seen some crazy parts but that cylinder seems to have skipped a step in the manufacturing process :dumb2: Someone was in a hurry to get back to their cubicle.

View attachment 610701
Click to expand...
They spray this stuff they think is nikasil, you know the stuff they coat pistons to protect on startup in the cylinders and they are convinced it's nikasil. But that's what you see peeling. I have personally seen those sets fail. I had no idea they were putting them together. That's why.

On the matter of cylinder return why would you want that? You will be taking that thing apart soon. They suffer a total failure. I thought it was bearing but now I think it's both cylinder bearing
 
Bedford T said:
They spray this stuff they think is nikasil, you know the stuff they coat pistons to protect on startup in the cylinders and they are convinced it's nikasil. But that's what you see peeling. I have personally seen those sets fail. I had no idea they were putting them together. That's why.

On the matter of cylinder return why would you want that? You will be taking that thing apart soon. They suffer a total failure. I thought it was bearing but now I think it's both cylinder bearing
Click to expand...
I'll have to see what they say. I sure don't want this cylinder but I'd use it after a bit of clean up until it dies, unless of course they make me send it back.
 
I got a source for a oem walbro hd-15 carb. Fully tuneable with a .70 fixed jet. I expect it to be affordable. If anyone is interested in 3 week I will have more info and would be happy to share it. wanna see it first.
 
I received my Huztl MS440 kit yesterday. This is my first kit build chainsaw. Last night I started working on it and got the two crank case halves assembled over the crank. A few observations so far:

Shipping: I placed the order on 2/25/28 (late sunday night) and it arrived at my house in WA on 3/7/2018. 10 days(9 realistically). The shipping box appeared to have been dropped/smooshed in transit and had one or two slight punctures. I carefully went through all the contents and so far have found no damage to any parts inside.

Cylinder: There are a few burrs and rough edges in the intake and exhaust ports, I plan to clean these up with a dremel prior to installation. None of the burrs stick into the cylinder bore so as to interfere with the piston, but I plan to clean them up for better air flow and to eliminate the risk of them breaking off during use and causing damage to the cylinder/piston.

Assembling crank/crank case:
I wiped a little bit of 10w30 motor oil on the crank shaft seal surfaces to help prevent rolling a seal. I baked the two halves of the crank case in a pre-heated oven at 240 degrees for 15 minutes. Installed the crank in the flywheel side of the case first. It didn't slide in as easy as I expected it to. I used a rubber mallet gently at first with little effect. Then hit it harder with the rubber mallet. Still little effect. It wouldn't seat all the way. I flipped it over and tried to pop it back out so I could re-heat the case. But the bearing started to come out of the case instead. So a couple hits on the other side put the bearing back in the case.

I used the supplied case gasket, with no additional sealant on it.

I pulled the PTO side of the case out of the oven, and set that on by hand. I then used the case screws (the 3 around the crank) to seat the two case halves together. This pulled them together well, (including the first half that didn't seat properly when I did the first half) but the crank was not centered in the case and one of the counter-weights was rubbing slightly on the PTO side of the crank case. I used the rubber mallet to try to center the crank, but was unsuccessful. (And I cringed every time I hit the crank shaft with the mallet. I don't want to damage the crank shaft bearings.)

I then used the flywheel nut and a couple spacers(washer and the round end of a couple wrenches) to pull the crank towards center. I was concerned about how much torque I had to put on it, but I was able to get the crank shaft to shift over far enough so that the counter weight would not rub on the case.

I can now turn the crank by hand without it rubbing on the case. There is still some resistance, more than I expected, however I can turn it with my fingers on the PTO shaft. I think the resistance I'm feeling is from the flywheel side seal. The resistance feels smooth. (not rough or grinding).

More to follow....
 
David.M said:
I received my Huztl MS440 kit yesterday. This is my first kit build chainsaw. Last night I started working on it and got the two crank case halves assembled over the crank. A few observations so far:

Shipping: I placed the order on 2/25/28 (late sunday night) and it arrived at my house in WA on 3/7/2018. 10 days(9 realistically). The shipping box appeared to have been dropped/smooshed in transit and had one or two slight punctures. I carefully went through all the contents and so far have found no damage to any parts inside.

Cylinder: There are a few burrs and rough edges in the intake and exhaust ports, I plan to clean these up with a dremel prior to installation. None of the burrs stick into the cylinder bore so as to interfere with the piston, but I plan to clean them up for better air flow and to eliminate the risk of them breaking off during use and causing damage to the cylinder/piston.

Assembling crank/crank case:
I wiped a little bit of 10w30 motor oil on the crank shaft seal surfaces to help prevent rolling a seal. I baked the two halves of the crank case in a pre-heated oven at 240 degrees for 15 minutes. Installed the crank in the flywheel side of the case first. It didn't slide in as easy as I expected it to. I used a rubber mallet gently at first with little effect. Then hit it harder with the rubber mallet. Still little effect. It wouldn't seat all the way. I flipped it over and tried to pop it back out so I could re-heat the case. But the bearing started to come out of the case instead. So a couple hits on the other side put the bearing back in the case.

I used the supplied case gasket, with no additional sealant on it.

I pulled the PTO side of the case out of the oven, and set that on by hand. I then used the case screws (the 3 around the crank) to seat the two case halves together. This pulled them together well, (including the first half that didn't seat properly when I did the first half) but the crank was not centered in the case and one of the counter-weights was rubbing slightly on the PTO side of the crank case. I used the rubber mallet to try to center the crank, but was unsuccessful. (And I cringed every time I hit the crank shaft with the mallet. I don't want to damage the crank shaft bearings.)

I then used the flywheel nut and a couple spacers(washer and the round end of a couple wrenches) to pull the crank towards center. I was concerned about how much torque I had to put on it, but I was able to get the crank shaft to shift over far enough so that the counter weight would not rub on the case.

I can now turn the crank by hand without it rubbing on the case. There is still some resistance, more than I expected, however I can turn it with my fingers on the PTO shaft. I think the resistance I'm feeling is from the flywheel side seal. The resistance feels smooth. (not rough or grinding).

More to follow....
Click to expand...
The resistance is likely from the new seals.

http://thechainsawkitguy.com Kit info
 
I forgot to say it's really great they did not send out all those faulty cylinders with peeling coatings. Sent them assembled likely to hide the fact, but of course it was evident looking into the ports. So glad to hear that is no longer an issue. Strong running saw when it's right

http://thechainsawkitguy.com Kit info
 
I worked on the MS440 for a few hours last night.

Cylinder: After looking at it closer, most of what I initially thought were burrs, was just light reflecting off of chamfered edges around the port openings. I touched up one of them with my Dremel but left the rest alone.

I spent about 30 minutes at the bench grinder grinding down the shaft diameter one a stihl wrench/torx combo tool so that it would be narrow enough to fit through the cylinder holes to tighten the cylinder bolts.

Base gasket: My kit included two pieces of base gasket. Both identical, metal. They measured about .014" thickness each. I only installed one, using three-bond 1184 on it also.

Got the cylinder installed and everything looks good there.

Oiler: The oiler pump/assembly piece has two bolts that hold it in place. While tightening, the bottom bolt started to strip out on me =( I got the top bolt tightened well, and gently put as much tension on the bottom one as I felt comfortable with to prevent completely stripping it out. I'm hoping this doesn't cause problems later. It feels like the oiler assembly is secured well.

Chain tensioner assembly: In other assembly videos online the gear piece with a screwdriver slot is a silver/brass part. Mine was black, and would not fit. It was too big. I compared with the ms660 kit that I have, and it was an exact match. I believe my 440 kit was shipped with the 660 chain tensioner. And unfortunately it doesn't fit. I tried to modify it to work, but that didn't work either. I will contact huztl about this and get replacement parts.

Muffler: muffler install went well. However the kit does not include heat reflector tape for under the muffler. I plan to order something to help with heat under there.

Flywheel: Flywheel installed easy. I didn't mess with changing timing on the flywheel key.

AV mounts: I wiped a little bit of 10W30 motor oil on the rubber mounts before pressing them in by hand and this helped a LOT. There is one small AV rubber piece that goes just below the coil that was still difficult. I tried the string method, and it popped in on my first try with using both string and a little bit of oil.
 
David.M said:
Oiler: The oiler pump/assembly piece has two bolts that hold it in place. While tightening, the bottom bolt started to strip out on me =( I got the top bolt tightened well, and gently put as much tension on the bottom one as I felt comfortable with to prevent completely stripping it out. I'm hoping this doesn't cause problems later. It feels like the oiler assembly is secured well.
Click to expand...

You shouldn't be having that problem. Did you use the oiler as a stop for the case bearing?

Untitled.jpg
 
I had a similar problem with the screws. One of the heads stripped off. Those 4mm screws are a problem in the kit. Not enough room to twist out the stud that was left. Ended up with a larger 5mm hex head cut into it.

http://thechainsawkitguy.com Kit info
 
No, I did not use the oil pump as a stop for the case bearing.

It is possible that it didn't strip, but rather the oiler bound and then released as it was seating, which felt to me like the screw stripping out. At the time I just assumed it was starting to strip and opted to leave it partially tightened rather than tighten it further and risk completely stripping it out. I will back the screw out tonight and take a closer look at the threads.

I tightened the top bolt with more torque than I put on the lower bolt when it felt like it stripped. I didn't feel like I was putting excessive torque on it.
 
So I got the ms440 about 80 percent together today. All the parts fit on the PTO shaft and the clip went in. Initially the clutch drum was rubbing on the oil pump output line. A few taps with a hammer moved the output line and freed the interference. However i noticed that the top of the pump assembly cracked off around the upper bolt. So I need to order a new oil pump now.

Then I did a compression test.....90psi. ugh. I stuck some solder in the spark plugs hole to check squish. The solder was about .038 diameter initially. It did not appear to get squished at all. So squish is at least .038".
My kit came with two metal base gaskets, 0.014" thick each. I installed just one gasket with 1184 sealant. I don't have access to a lathe or mill to trim the bottom of the cylinder base. Does anyone have an idea of how much compression I can expect to gain by removing the .014" base gasket?
 
Clutch drum contacting oil pump output line. This prevented me from getting the clip on the PTO shaft. After fixing this interference all the parts and the clip went on the PTO shaftIMG_20180309_160428820.jpg
 

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