Huztl MS660

[Johnnybar]

What is he following? Looks like thick black chalk lines or something. Holding just the back of the saw must make it easier for the saw blade to keep close as possible to 90 degrees? Crazy!

Most I've watched mill 100% freehand and a few had boy helpers that placed chalk lines for the 2nd face cut on the inside of the bow in the log.

 

[TPA]

Well, as of this moment I'm officially a member of the 660 club. What is their latest delivery times?

 

[Johnnybar]

Well, as of this moment I'm officially a member of the 660 club. What is their latest delivery times?

Mine took about 2 weeks.

 

[Mattyo]

Maybe you have a better search engine than I use. Find the best price on a 50" throat band mill and let me know. Did you get that cost figure on Matthew's home built mill yet? I've been following Matthew for over a year now and let me tell you it was a huge cost in materials alone and he already had the variable frequency speed controller for that 10 hp electric motor iirc. My purpose is to slab 32" to 50"+ oak. The $4000 mill you refer to that reports "30" log diameter capability" has a 22" throat that can effectively handle 20" slabbing on very straight logs and maybe 15" on real world logs I see...no where near the needed capabilities we are talking about here. That Lucas mill, which Wranglestar did not buy but was placed for promo purposes, can slab nicely for $6,000 more with a chainsaw conversion(pic below). That's a considerable additional cost above the swingblade setup ($13,500) which has very limited slabbing capabilities even on their largest mill (20" max iirc). You can also get the 60" Lucas slabber stand alone for $9,000. KISS means more that "Simple" for me ...I add "Soft" on the pocket book when I think KISS. Keep It Simple & Soft LOL

I never said the woodland can do huge slabs. And I did say that one advantage to chainsaw mills is the portability and the nearly unlimited bar lengths. However, if you are expecting to be doing dimensional lumber with chainsaws its just the wrong piece of equipment. I haven't seen all his vids, but its my impression that Matt C could have continued using a chainsaw for slabbing. He didn't... he went to great lengths and expense to have one of the baddest mills out there. A 660 is certainly fine for a few slabs. After a while, its just gonna get frustrating. If you haven't run a bandsaw mill, even a small one, I suggest you try it. I love my chainsaws, but my mill is definitely the biggest kick to run. Its super safe, and efficient. No, it won't slab off 50" oak, but then again, a few slabs on 50" oak is gonna be an all day project for a 660. I just don't want to see a whole pile of guys buy 660's for milling and then find out they are inadequate for the job they want to do. For the price its definitely enticing to just get in and go for it. But I don't think that ultimately it'll be as light on the pocket book as you think. imho.

And you are exactly right about the woodland. an ideal log is 22-24" diameter on my mill. any bigger and I'm carving pieces off with the chainsaw. ...that and bigger than that is difficult to move for one guy without hydraulics or a loader

And also, with Wranglerstars Lucas mill, yes I know thats hugely product placement. I'd have to try one to be convinced it'd be the way to go. I like the fact that you can sharpen it very quickly. But it just looks clunky and awkward to use. I dunno. lotta $$ too.

 

[emanaresi]

I just received my huztl 660 kit today and I am mostly impressed. I am missing at least the few detail things that everyone else has been (no foil reflective pieces, no winter/summer cover for the air box). Other than that is seems complete. I am wiring for my dirko and three bond to come in the mail. I really can't make much progress until they get here. Does everyone use sealant on the case gasket? It doesn't really seem necessary, but then again, I'd hate to have to split the case just to seal up an air leak.

I attached pics of my cylinder, it looks pretty good, I think. I am going to clean up some of the casting stuff, but I don't think there is much room in the ports to go bigger, maybe a little bit... What is recommended as far as room between the edge of the port and the edge of the cylinder skirt? This is not my first time porting an engine but is, but is my first time porting a 2 stroke.

 

[emanaresi]

I was surprised to see that the bottom of the cylinder was not a machined surface. Is that normal?

 

[Wood Chopper]

A bit of 1184 is cheap insurance between case halves. Most will say overkill but taking cases back apart would be a no bueno. Lol


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[dswensen]

A bit of 1184 is cheap insurance between case halves. Most will say overkill but taking cases back apart would be a no bueno. Lol


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I have to agree. I used Motoseal between the case halves on both my 044 and my 066 kits. Did I need to? Don't know. Am I glad I did? you bet!

 

[Mattyo]

EMAN, your cylinder looks nicer than the one I had in my vids... mine was rough on the inside, sharp etc.

I'm working on a poor mans porting solution at the moment, hope to have some results next week.

 

[emanaresi]

I have a dremel with carbide burrs and stones. My brother has a die grinder with carbides I can use, but I think the dremel will be plenty. I am not looking for a hot saw, just would like to go over it a little while its apart. I probably will just clean up the obvious casting lines and smooth it all out a bit then use it how it is.

I just don't want to get too aggressive and ruin anything

 

[davhul]

You can also open up and taper the piston windows some to

 

[emanaresi]

Yes, I will do that. BTW, does anyone have a comparison of the stock oiler vs the high output oiler. I read somewhere once I think that you may be able to make some modification to the original parts to increase the oiling. I am going to use the saw often to run a 36" bar on the chinese mill. It would nice to have the extra oil.

 

[emanaresi]

Also, my cases have the too big space for the chain adjuster screw. I ordered a piece of the tubing to make a shim. I have reported all issues so far to huztl including that the carb butterfly doesn't close tightly. Its not awful but not great, we will see how it idles when it is all together. I think I just heard the mailman so I am going to get my three bond and putting some things together

 

[davhul]

On the end of the oil pump control bolt its machined offset. On the high flow its smaller and allows the part it touches to move over more for more oil. I haven't modified one yet but the stock one could be. I don't have a upgraded one to take a pic but here's a stock one out of a 460.

 

[Johnnybar]

I never said the woodland can do huge slabs. And I did say that one advantage to chainsaw mills is the portability and the nearly unlimited bar lengths. However, if you are expecting to be doing dimensional lumber with chainsaws its just the wrong piece of equipment. I haven't seen all his vids, but its my impression that Matt C could have continued using a chainsaw for slabbing. He didn't... he went to great lengths and expense to have one of the baddest mills out there. A 660 is certainly fine for a few slabs. After a while, its just gonna get frustrating. If you haven't run a bandsaw mill, even a small one, I suggest you try it. I love my chainsaws, but my mill is definitely the biggest kick to run. Its super safe, and efficient. No, it won't slab off 50" oak, but then again, a few slabs on 50" oak is gonna be an all day project for a 660. I just don't want to see a whole pile of guys buy 660's for milling and then find out they are inadequate for the job they want to do. For the price its definitely enticing to just get in and go for it. But I don't think that ultimately it'll be as light on the pocket book as you think. imho.

And you are exactly right about the woodland. an ideal log is 22-24" diameter on my mill. any bigger and I'm carving pieces off with the chainsaw. ...that and bigger than that is difficult to move for one guy without hydraulics or a loader

And also, with Wranglerstars Lucas mill, yes I know thats hugely product placement. I'd have to try one to be convinced it'd be the way to go. I like the fact that you can sharpen it very quickly. But it just looks clunky and awkward to use. I dunno. lotta $$ too.

36" mill slabbing was the topic. No mention of lumber or volume production and at 7 minutes to go through 10 feet of 30" slab with one powerhead using 15-20 oz mix and half that much oil, I don't think I'll have to find my way home in the dark all frustrated. Likewise, no one stated that they were planning to slab 50" with one 660 powerhead. Bands and swingers are great if justifiable...but they are just a square plug for the round hole we were discussing.

 

[Johnnybar]

On the end of the oil pump control bolt its machined offset. On the high flow its smaller and allows the part it touches to move over more for more oil. I haven't modified one yet but the stock one could be. I don't have a upgraded one to take a pic but here's a stock one out of a 460.

About how much smaller is the cam on the HO bolt?

 

[davhul]

I didn't measure but I Would say .75-1mm. If I have time I may do it to my last 660 tomorrow or Saturday. I'm going to only take some material off where it's adjusted to max.

 

[Johnnybar]

I didn't measure but I Would say .75-1mm. If I have time I may do it to my last 660 tomorrow or Saturday. I'm going to only take some material off where it's adjusted to max.

So, that would be about half way to that bright spot in the pic?

 

[davhul]

Before I pull it out I'm going to mark where fully open is then shave some off and round the sharp edges. I suspect it's going to be about right about here on the cam.

 

[Johnnybar]

Thanks, I have a new farmertec 660 oiler for backup that I think I will do the HO mod to. If I take too much off, does the piston just go to the end of it's travel on each revolution and no harm done?