I built to .020" squish. You can use 1184 with some aftermarket gasket material that is your choice of thickness to dial in the squish you desire. I seem to remember some guy using paper to tweek squish.I just measured squish without a base gasket and it measured 15 thousandths. Is that too tight? DO I need to run the gasket? If so, that'll take it up to about 30 thousandths...
That would be great because filing that piston's cam looks challenging.From my understating just the bolt has to be upgraded. I'm going to see if I can find it again in some of my literature and make sure. @blsnelling might be able to add some input
I finally got fed up with not getting enough oil to the B/C when cutting really hard wood so i called Mike at Midwest Stihl and asked if there were any other oilers that would fit and he said no. He said I would have to build a bigger one or mod the one I have, so I started tearing it apart. He said I could trim some off the head of the adjuster so i could turn it a little further. I looked at the inner end of the adjuster and figured out where it would have to sit to give the oiler piston/rotor maximum travel, and grouond the head to that angle. I also took a couple thousandths off the inner end peg just to make sure it had all the travel it could get. Put it back together and put 200 revs on the drum by hand and the oil port/slot were full of oil!!!! It couldn't do that before!!!!
Not all 660s have an HO oiler. The wrap models do, as well as those sold in Australia. All you really need is the piston and control bolt.
1. My bearing was a very snug fit...almost no drum clearance. It had to be in perfect alignment to seat it. Always a chance you have an under-spec drum. If so, wrap some emery paper around slotted dowel and polish it up a bit with a drill or a dremel with a small flap wheel. Clean thoroughly afterward and lube it well before assembly.thanks! that is great info. Let us know how it goes.
I have 2 more questions:
-did anyone have trouble with the bearing for the clutch drum? I had a really hard time putting it on, it seems like it is too big, or maybe the clutch drum is made too small. My old saws they come apart easily, but they are well broken in, so I can't say if this is ok or not.
-The oil pump clutch that goes behind the main chain clutch, I think it goes with the dome facing out towards (so it cups over the oil pump sort of). Is that right?
.4mmAbout how much smaller is the cam on the HO bolt?
1:1 fuel to bar oil is a whole bunch of oil! Might need that much for long bar milling but if you need that much the information I've seen says to use an aux oiler for two reasons. 1. The extra oil goes directly to the work side of the bar. 2. That much extra oil coming from the powerhead oiler gets most of the surplus slung off at the nose and doesn't saturate the cutting side as intended.Your grinding looks good. That's good to know both can be replaced to get the max. That might only be needed for milling like you or just the bolt could be good enough for you. I put a oem upgrade bolt in my 460 last week and I'm going to try it tomorrow. If I use 1:1 with the fuel that's what I want. My early 064 has 2 turns of adjustment and it will dump oil.
thanks! that is great info. Let us know how it goes.
I have 2 more questions:
-did anyone have trouble with the bearing for the clutch drum? I had a really hard time putting it on, it seems like it is too big, or maybe the clutch drum is made too small. My old saws they come apart easily, but they are well broken in, so I can't say if this is ok or not.
-The oil pump clutch that goes behind the main chain clutch, I think it goes with the dome facing out towards (so it cups over the oil pump sort of). Is that right?
Oh, you mean 1 tank : 1 tank? That would be about 2.3 : 1 by volume so that makes more sense.It used 3/4 a tank before. When I cut dry pine or large white oak is when I would turn it up. I even play with a 36" on it sometime. It's far from stock
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