Huztl MS660

[Johnnybar]

Your grinding looks good. That's good to know both can be replaced to get the max. That might only be needed for milling like you or just the bolt could be good enough for you. I put a oem upgrade bolt in my 460 last week and I'm going to try it tomorrow. If I use 1:1 with the fuel that's what I want. My early 064 has 2 turns of adjustment and it will dump oil.

Only the head of the adjuster, where the screwdriver slot is, was ground using the dremel. Then the head was cleaned up and cam tip reprofiled using the jewelers files. Make sure to use safe edge files so you don't bugger up the shoulder the cam tip sits on.

 

[Johnnybar]

This one aint a Huztl
The third cut is my favorite from this practice run for Saturday

Is that safety bumper green chain?

 

[emanaresi]

So for the bearings on the clutch, if I can get it together, is it a bad idea to let it just wear in? I guess I'll probably pull it back of and clearance it a little.

Here is another one I haven't read about on here before:

The chain brake lever doesn't work well, I was expecting that, but the pin that the lever goes on seems to be driven too far into the case by about .010. I can fit a .020 feeler gauge into the slot with the lever on, but the E-clip that is supposed to go on the shaft os .030 thick. And that is after scraping the paint off from under the lever to try to provide a bit more clearance. I have ordered an OEM lever to fix the operational issues and I am hoping it is a little thinner as well, we'll see. If it is not thinner, I guess my options are to grind down the lever a bit, or grind down the boss of the case that the pin is in. I don't think it is a good idea to try to drive the pin back out a little, I am worried it will become loose in the bore.

 

[Mattyo]

Eman, got lots of vids and tips on my youtube channel, I had a similar issue with my chainbrake handle...

 

[emanaresi]

Thanks mattyo, I've watched a lot of videos but missed yours. I knew about the problem with travel, I was kind of expecting that. I decided I would rather switch to an oem lever without having to grind on the handle. I feel like allowing it the extra travel to make the aftermarket one work kinda weakens the safety feature that the chain brake is. I want it to lock the chain as soon as possible in the case of a kickback

Did you have the problem with the clip not fitting onto the shaft for the chain brake?

 

[Mattyo]

No issue with the clip. Just the travel issue.

I'm not sure the oem handle will solve the problem. Maybe... maybe not. In this case, I don't think the handle is weakened enough to be a safety concern, but certainly if you modify any safety device you are taking your life into your own hands. I got mine to work reliably, so as long as it works repeatably, i'm happy.

I have full bolt for bolt vids on my channel. They are super boring, but help as a reference. Heck, I go back to them often to see how I put stuff together!

 

[Wood Chopper]

This one aint a Huztl
The third cut is my favorite from this practice run for Saturday

You don't have to tell everything but what saw is that and in general what did you do. Not to go off track. But geeesh. [emoji2][emoji7]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Johnnybar]

So for the bearings on the clutch, if I can get it together, is it a bad idea to let it just wear in? I guess I'll probably pull it back of and clearance it a little.

Here is another one I haven't read about on here before:

The chain brake lever doesn't work well, I was expecting that, but the pin that the lever goes on seems to be driven too far into the case by about .010. I can fit a .020 feeler gauge into the slot with the lever on, but the E-clip that is supposed to go on the shaft os .030 thick. And that is after scraping the paint off from under the lever to try to provide a bit more clearance. I have ordered an OEM lever to fix the operational issues and I am hoping it is a little thinner as well, we'll see. If it is not thinner, I guess my options are to grind down the lever a bit, or grind down the boss of the case that the pin is in. I don't think it is a good idea to try to drive the pin back out a little, I am worried it will become loose in the bore.

PITA but you can take a picture of the too deep pin and have them send another case or case half. Personally, I would thin the AM lever very slightly with a carbide end mill since it has no side to side forces to worry about and see how that works. If no issues are found, repeat with the OEM to address the handle travel issue. Guess you could also chuck a flat tip grinder bit in a drill press and kiss it a few times to accomplish the same thing.

 

[dswensen]

So for the bearings on the clutch, if I can get it together, is it a bad idea to let it just wear in? I guess I'll probably pull it back of and clearance it a little.

With mine, I couldn't get the clutch drum on without a hammer. Even tapping it a bit made it SO tight I almost couldn't get it off, and that was only tapping it about 20% home . I felt I had no choice but to clearance it a bit. If you can get it together - maybe OK??

 

[Ozhoo]

...The chain brake lever doesn't work well, I was expecting that, but the pin that the lever goes on seems to be driven too far into the case by about .010. I can fit a .020 feeler gauge into the slot with the lever on, but the E-clip that is supposed to go on the shaft os .030 thick. And that is after scraping the paint off from under the lever to try to provide a bit more clearance. I have ordered an OEM lever to fix the operational issues and I am hoping it is a little thinner as well, we'll see. If it is not thinner, I guess my options are to grind down the lever a bit, or grind down the boss of the case that the pin is in. I don't think it is a good idea to try to drive the pin back out a little, I am worried it will become loose in the bore.

You can remove those pins and reseat/replace them. I've used a cats paw on them before. They're splined so you don't wanna twist, just pull straight out. Use a little loctite when you reseat them.

 

[blsnelling]

Drive it back out from the back side.

 

[Johnnybar]

With mine, I couldn't get the clutch drum on without a hammer. Even tapping it a bit made it SO tight I almost couldn't get it off, and that was only tapping it about 20% home . I felt I had to choice but to clearance it a bit. If you can get it together - maybe OK??

Any of you fellas happen to put an accurate caliper on those tight drums?

 

[blsnelling]

With mine, I couldn't get the clutch drum on without a hammer. Even tapping it a bit made it SO tight I almost couldn't get it off, and that was only tapping it about 20% home . I felt I had to choice but to clearance it a bit. If you can get it together - maybe OK??

Grinding the drum is a very bad idea. That's a bearing race.

 

[emanaresi]

I was worried if I tapped out the pin I wouldn't be able to get it back in. But if you guys say it would work that is definitely the most elegant solution

Mattyo - I didn't mean an OEM hand guard, but rather the little lever with the linkage. Others have reported that replacing with oem improved function greatly.

Yeah, I normally wouldn't mess with a bearing race, but this is one that really only spins at low RPM (when the clutch is disengaged) right? Maybe not too critical.

 

[Johnnybar]

Well the nitpicking continues...LOL The Huztl 660 missing parts package arrived today and was still short: two heat foils, winter/summer slide, 3 cylinder cover bushings.

What I did get looked fine. No, that's not a 660 muffler. Huztl forgot my 290/390 muffler too.

 

[emanaresi]

I think maybe the best tactic is to ask for a refund of enough money to buy the foils and winter/summer slide separately.

 

[Johnnybar]

I think maybe the best tactic is to ask for a refund of enough money to buy the foils and winter/summer slide separately.

I agree but I am currently awaiting a response, hopefully tonight my time, to my inquiry about a 2nd package or a back order I was not informed of before i go the refund route. Probably would not even bother with it except they list the kit as "Complete" and it should either be complete or be listed as partial with an itemized list available...maybe I'm just being an arse but I never operated like that in my 40 yrs of working.

 

[dswensen]

Grinding the drum is a very bad idea. That's a bearing race.

I know. It took some polishing to make it as good as it came.

 

[Johnnybar]

So for the bearings on the clutch, if I can get it together, is it a bad idea to let it just wear in? I guess I'll probably pull it back of and clearance it a little.

Here is another one I haven't read about on here before:

The chain brake lever doesn't work well, I was expecting that, but the pin that the lever goes on seems to be driven too far into the case by about .010. I can fit a .020 feeler gauge into the slot with the lever on, but the E-clip that is supposed to go on the shaft os .030 thick. And that is after scraping the paint off from under the lever to try to provide a bit more clearance. I have ordered an OEM lever to fix the operational issues and I am hoping it is a little thinner as well, we'll see. If it is not thinner, I guess my options are to grind down the lever a bit, or grind down the boss of the case that the pin is in. I don't think it is a good idea to try to drive the pin back out a little, I am worried it will become loose in the bore.

The inner race for that bearing is the crankshaft...so, yes bad idea...drum needs to spin freely.

 

[blsnelling]

The inner race for that bearing is the crankshaft...so, yes bad idea...drum needs to spin freely.

Trash the bearing with the drum, and then those same bearing rollers are running on the crankshaft.