Hydraulic Cooler bypass

[ChoppyChoppy]

I know a few guys on here are a bit better at hydraulic setups than I am.

I'm looking to setup a bypass on my processor for the cooler so when the oil is cold, it won't flow through the cooler.

Now I could make it simple with a few ball valves, but I expect that I or a worker will forget and get the oil hot.

What I'm thinking is a couple solenoids and a temp switch.

 

[GM_Grimmy]

So yea, I have a cooler on my splitter. Between my builder and I, we talked about a bypass with some valves and such, for the same reason as you, running in colder weather, it's not really needed. We ended up with no bypass. I suppose one could cover one side of the cooler (the non-fan side) if there was a wind. I actually have a bypass built into my cooler, 25psi that will allow up to 40% of the fluid to bypass the cooling fins of the cooler. What I don't like about solenoids, you never know when they fail, and usually you find it after something else has already happened, and they will fail. I change them out at work, and they can be a bear to find out which one or if that's even causing the problem.

I think if you have a cooler installed, you'd be fine to run fluid through it when you don't need the cooling of it. The only time it will cool when you don't want it to, is if there's a wind blowing into it.

 

[Swamp Yankee]

Try Parker

We used one of their in line thermal bypass valves in a winch / hoist application. Pretty simple, plumbs in return line parallel to the cooler. Allows flow to pass until preset temp is reached and it closes off the tank bypass line directing flow through the cooler. Call your Parker rep. or Parker directly for info and ordering specs and they can set you up with everything you need to install. Once it's in you don't have to worry about opening and closing valves manually.

I'm sure other hydraulic valve companies offer the same type valve if you search around.

Forgot to ask is your cooler a passive type (no fan or blower) or a forced air circulation type? I'm assuming it's passive, forced air types you can control the cooling by turning the fan / blower on and off.

Good luck.

Take Care

 

[olympyk_999]

make sure these guys are axeperts...

 

[kevin j]

The Parker valve referred to above is the old Bruning THV series. Parker bought bruning a decade ago.

good valves, and quite cheap (for hydr parts). I have used dozens over the years.
We used about 125 F cracking 140F full open and about 25 or 50 psi bypass


http://ph.parker.com/us/en/valves-thermal-bypass-up-to-250-psi-th-series

 

[ChoppyChoppy]

The cooler is mounted in front of the radiator so it always has air passing through it. I though about moving it and putting an electric fan, but there are not any spots it would fit and not get damaged.

 

[ChoppyChoppy]

The Parker valve referred to above is the old Bruning THV series. Parker bought bruning a decade ago.

good valves, and quite cheap (for hydr parts). I have used dozens over the years.
We used about 125 F cracking 140F full open and about 25 or 50 psi bypass


http://ph.parker.com/us/en/valves-thermal-bypass-up-to-250-psi-th-series

Do they make a smaller version? 20ish gpm would be fine. That one is good to 60gpm.
That's no big deal aside that it's a 2lbs and uses 1 5/16" fittings (kind of oddball size). All my cooler fittings are 3/4".

The valve is about $200 but the Parker store didn't have any 1 5/16" fittings to reduce down.

 

[Swamp Yankee]

When all else fails,

Try the Surplus Center. A couple of these should work.

http://www.surpluscenter.com/Hydrau...ht/SAE-16M-X-3-4-NPTF-SWIVEL-9-6900-16-12.axd

If you don't want swivel ends other configurations are available. You neeed to go from a SAE #16 ORB to 3/4 npt. Personally since the valve and reducers are going in the return line, I'd stay on the larger side, both flow and port size to keep return line pressures low. Bushing down to 3/4 at your flow probably won't be an issue, but keep your psi crack pressure on the valve low as Kevin recommended.

Take Care

 

[ChoppyChoppy]

The cooler is only on the "low flow" circuits, my splitter circuit just returns to the tank.
Would think it wouldn't cool too much then but it does. I often even leave the 1500w tank heater plugged in when I'm using it in on the colder days.

I like this... this HTML class. Value is http://www.improvedr

Eh **** **** piss! PLEASE FIX THIS PROBLEM! Why can't the forum take a pasted web link? What the heck is "this HTML class value is"?

www.improvedracing.com, part number is fsm-165. High flow oil cooler bypass valve.