I can't hand file a chain!

[Mike Kunte]

I’ve literally just started learning to hand file the other day. The results are so much better than both the 2 in 1 file I have tried and also the standard stihl filing jigs. They are both hateful.

I guess like anything, time, practise (the right thing) and repetition.

As a professional knife sharpener some of the principles are transferable.

View attachment 874623View attachment 874625View attachment 874624

I have basically worn the below chain down to nothing now just practising filing. Putting in lots of hook purposely and then removing it. Dinging the teeth bad and cleaning them up etc.

Too much hookView attachment 874626

Then removed it

View attachment 874627

I went my stihl dealer and asked if could a left and right cutter from .404 semi chisel to copy from. I like so much it’s now going to be a key chain (after I take the sharp edge off)

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If anyone has any recommendations as to who is the best in the game at hand filing, let me know as I want to learn what I can!

Hey, Gaudaost!

I must say - those hand-filed teeth look really, really good! I also like the way you experimented by "breaking" the tooth, then fixing it again. All in all, I like your methods! Well done!!!

You have proven that hand-filing is not rocket science, and is quite easily picked up within the life of one (sacrificial) chain. Perfecting it may take a little longer though! And then there is that feeling when the big chips fly out against your thigh, and that knowing that nothing cuts as satisfyingly well and smoothly as a hand-filed chain! Thanks for sharing!!!

P.S. My thumbs also take a beating!

 

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

Hey, Gaudaost!

I must say - those hand-filed teeth look really, really good! I also like the way you experimented by "breaking" the tooth, then fixing it again. All in all, I like your methods! Well done!!!

You have proven that hand-filing is not rocket science, and is quite easily picked up within the life of one (sacrificial) chain. Perfecting it may take a little longer though! And then there is that feeling when the big chips fly out against your thigh, and that knowing that nothing cuts as satisfyingly well and smoothly as a hand-filed chain! Thanks for sharing!!!

P.S. My thumbs also take a beating!

Pleasure and thanks for the kind words! There are so many out there that say things like it took me 10-20 years to learn to hand file, it’s just really off putting, when in reality, it’s quite a simple concept. As you say, perfecting it will take more time, but it’s really not hard.

 

[Mike Kunte]

Good point on storing files, I wrap mine with a rag in my toolbox.

I've found that plastic drinking straws work the best for storing files.

Mike

 

[bruiser1]

I've been cutting for a little over a year now, and I just CANNOT hand file a chain right!
Lately I've been free handing my chains, and they are VERY sharp, but the top plates are getting too long on the left side, and they're chipping!
I've been filing at 25°, and matching my file to the cutting edge with a downward pressure. What am I doing wrong?
Can somebody walk me through freehanding step by step? There's no reason it should be this hard.View attachment 577856

I've been cutting for a little over a year now, and I just CANNOT hand file a chain right!
Lately I've been free handing my chains, and they are VERY sharp, but the top plates are getting too long on the left side, and they're chipping!
I've been filing at 25°, and matching my file to the cutting edge with a downward pressure. What am I doing wrong?
Can somebody walk me through freehanding step by step? There's no reason it should be this hard.View attachment 577856

Sorry if it’s been said already I didn’t read all five pages of your thread but, I think you might be 5° off I believe most chains are 30° or 35° except for square chisel which I believe is 10°. There should be a mark on your filing guide a line that will say 30° or 35° that is to be parallel with your bar once you make your stroke go from in to out and you won’t get that pointless. With that said depending on damage to the tooth 4 to 5 strokes should get it sharp. I had one of the Granberg files and it was more trouble than it was worth I’ve been hand sharpening for years. I usually start off with a 13/64 file in my filing guide and then as the tooth wears I change over to a 7/32 Anyway hope this helps just my two cents

 

[newforest]

I have been thinking for a while that those little plastic boxes that are used for storing re-useable chopsticks would be perfect for holding chainsaw files. But I don't live anywhere close enough to an Asian grocery store to pick one up and try out that idea, nor am I gonna get around to ordering one of those little boxes online. But if ever I return to the Big City...


If my saw isn't laying down little piles of noodles while cutting soft wood right after sharpening, I get mad at myself. Though the quality of the noodles does depend on the species being cut.


I am also much happier after I get to the 3rd sharpening and I do my depth gauges, though sometimes it takes till sharp #4 or #5 to summon the energy to do it as usually I just want to get to cutting. But anyone teaching themselves hand filing should make that a piece of the puzzle, too. It's not hard to learn or all that difficult, but holding the depth gauge gauge cramps my fingers for some reason so I avoid it sometimes.

 

[Philbert]

Not familiar with those. Thought about a short length of PVC pipe and end caps? I use these for hacksaw and Sawzall blades. For files, I would line them with plastic soda straws, or wrap the files in cloth or paper before sliding the whole batch in.

Philbert

 

[KASH]

Bruiser 1 you say you start out with 13/64 then go to 7/32 should it not be the other way around.The cutters are getting shorter so the smaller diameter file would help to keep the profile.Maybe I am confused .
Kash

 

[pioneerguy600]

Another vote for the larger drinking straws like those used on milkshakes, McDonalds was a good supplier for me. A few drops of oil smeared all over them helps keep the rust away. Heat and roll one end of the straw to help keep the file in its jacket. The files in my carry to the woods kit are stored inside 3/16" clear vinyl tubing, its tougher than the straws, they just lay in a drawer.

 

[Ted Jenkins]

Pleasure and thanks for the kind words! There are so many out there that say things like it took me 10-20 years to learn to hand file, it’s just really off putting, when in reality, it’s quite a simple concept. As you say, perfecting it will take more time, but it’s really not hard.

I have been cutting wood for almost sixty years and have barely got it nearly perfect. Yes it takes practice and some effort. That is why so many have bought HF grinders. Many will say to set up a grinder well also takes skill and practice. You do not need encouragement praise or a pat on your back because it will be difficult to wipe the grin off your face when you feel nice large chips fly past your legs as your saw melts through the log at hand. I have always been surprised that many people will not try to grab a file and see what can be done. You have taken the first step and then some in that you are on your way to be fully cable of getting your saws cutting under any circumstance. Thanks

 

[pioneerguy600]

Just finished up setting up a new chain, it was a 1/4" Stihl chain of some older vintage. The owner just bought and installed the chain then went out to do some cutting of 4" - 6" dia spruce sticks. Well he told me the saw was just jumping up and down and not cutting worth ****, could I take a look and possibly make it cut right. First thing I thought of last night when he dropped it off was the chain was on backwards, it was long after dark so this morning I took a looksee and lo and behold it was on right. Upon closer inspection I could see the sharp side of the cutters was nearly blunt, no undercut angle or hook and the depth guides less then .010 lower, top plate angle about 15 degrees, that sucker took me an hour to shape up and lower the depth gauges. Wore out a new round file and put a beating on my flat depth gauge file as well, cuts smooth now. I really don`t like 1/4" chain but small 40 - 45 cc saws can`t handle .325 very well. Buying new bars and picco chain along with a new drive sprocket would cost more than the saw is worth though.

 

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

I have been cutting wood for almost sixty years and have barely got it nearly perfect. Yes it takes practice and some effort. That is why so many have bought HF grinders. Many will say to set up a grinder well also takes skill and practice. You do not need encouragement praise or a pat on your back because it will be difficult to wipe the grin off your face when you feel nice large chips fly past your legs as your saw melts through the log at hand. I have always been surprised that many people will not try to grab a file and see what can be done. You have taken the first step and then some in that you are on your way to be fully cable of getting your saws cutting under any circumstance. Thanks

Thanks for the kind words Ted. Great to hear it from a vet cutter

 

[edisto]

Don't do the downward pressure. Back and slightly up pressure. Light pressure & sharp files will give best results.

I had a friend ask me about sharpening, because he could never get good results. He seemed surprised when I told him that he needed to focus on making the edge on the top plate. He had been using downward pressure too. Once he knew what it was he was trying to accomplish, he started getting good results.

I also told him that you'd know you had the edge when you can feel a slight burl on the top edge.

 

[bruiser1]

Bruiser 1 you say you start out with 13/64 then go to 7/32 should it not be the other way around.The cutters are getting shorter so the smaller diameter file would help to keep the profile.Maybe I am confused .
Kash

You’re absolutely right my mistake I meant it the other way around