I tried the distal, not impressed yet.

[Davidsinatree]

Ok gents, I tried the distal hitch out for the first time and I am less than impressed so far.

First I'll tell what I like about it.
Releases & locks back up nicely. Thats it, so far.

Now what I dont like.
I could not figure out how to body thrust because there is no room for hands below the distal to get leverage for a good pull stroke.

I could foot lock but unless I held my advance on each up stroke which uses extra energy, you end up losing part of your stroke as you settle down for your hitch to lock up.

With my blakes I can grab every inch of advance, not waisting any energy. Alot of people here rave about the latest friction hitches thats why I am trying them out.

What am I not doing right, what am I missing here?

I am using a piece of ulta tech tied 28.5 inches eye to eye,XTC life line, micro pully holding rope to the wales biner. 1 down 4 up distal.

 

[Tom Dunlap]

Don't give up yet. You've just started onto the journey to become a progressive climber. Changing from a tautline/Blake's is the opening gambit.

Take a look at the bridge length that you used with the Blake's. Measure from the saddle to the bottom of the wraps. In order to have the D perform the same you need the bridge length the same.

When I climb on a hitch I keep the bridge just as short as possible. This keeps the hitch self tending. When I FL the tail I only loose the length of the biner.

If you want to FL/body thrust and capture every fraction of an inch you need a long bridge so that you can push the hitch up as you go.

Mahk Adams wrote an article for Arborist News no an adjustable bridge. His idea and others allow you to have a bridge that is tight or long. You might do a search on "adjustable bridge" hear and on the I S A forum.

Tom

 

[John Paul Sanborn]

When I FL on the traditional loop system using a tress hitch (Distal, VT...) I will take the hitch and advance it all the way up before taking another lock.

It just takes a little getting used to a slightly different system.

It is also much easier for someone to pull slack for you fo your using is as a belay.

 

[rahtreelimbs]

Ever since I switched I follow Rocky's example. I also have a groundie pull the slack out as I body thrust.

 

[rbtree]

Agree to all the above.

As well there a way to rig a self advancing prussic, that works regardess of the knot or hitch used. Since I rarely body thrust for very far, I almost never use it. But it is VERY slick. Too lazy to explain or post pics.... but anyone interested will need to bribe me....just send me a virgin or three....


...female please...and no sasquatch

 

[NickfromWI]

Rog, correct me if I'm wrong...

Above the spliced eye of your climbing line, attack a prussik made out of small cord. clip a carabiner/dog snap to it, and clip that to a pulley that's been put on the tail end of the climbing line below the friction hitch.

i think i've got that right.

does this mean I get the virgins?

love
nick

 

[Davidsinatree]

It was to cold here today to play in the trees, wind chill in the teens & very windy. Besides, the fire-place + easy-chair + chiefs game = ahhhhhh!!!!!!!!

I'm going to shorten my cord abit to see what a shorter bridge does for me. Also going to try vt, allthough that one looks harder to tye up.

I won't name the co. bucause there not a sponser, but they sell a friction hitch tender/advancer that is very basic. IMO it is to much to fiddle with.

I won't give up yet! I like trying new things & stuff.
I just borrowed a pantin & hand ascender from a friend to try out.

 

[rborist1]

:Eye:

 

[NickfromWI]

Ever since the ball-locks came out about, oh, seven years ago (?) (that's when I first noticed them) i've been using them. They've served me well in the cold wisconsin weather. It sounded like it wasn't the carabiner's fault, Rocky....you just gotta stay in warm florida!

John Paul, can you send me some cheese curds?

love
nick

 

[ccooperabbs]

I'll try and explain this one, i climb with all (friction hitch 'Distel/P05' and splice) on one krab, if i need to body thrust i place the eye splice on another krab and have this clipped onto my main pelvic attachment point, I take my friction hitch krab off my harness, reaching about a foot or so above my eye splice i put in the line a marlin spike hitch and then clip my friction hitch krab into that, as i pull down on my line the friction hitch self advances, no need for extra kit, and when i'm in the tree simply lanyard on take my krab off my marlin and clip back into my hraness. And he's off.

 

[Tom Dunlap]

I know that a alot of climbers use a pulley under their friction hitches as slack tenders. A simpler and cheaper st is to just clip the swivel dog leash snap right to the rope below the hitch. This eliminates one piece of gear and also shortens the action of the slack tender. The twenty bucks you save can be used to better ends buying another useful tool.

Tom