If chainsaws were NOT 2 stroke, would you still enjoy them?

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
This is a Gardenline 4 stroke chainsaw that Aldi sells.

How cool! Where is the sump located, and how do you prevent the cilinder to run dry when you hold it in an angle?

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
 
How cool! Where is the sump located, and how do you prevent the cilinder to run dry when you hold it in an angle?

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
It doesnt have a sump. The engine oil is in the chain oil tank so it pumps through the engine and then to the chain. You have to top up the engine oil every time you fuel up. It is 47 cc and doesnt feel any heavier than a chinese 52cc two stroke
 
View attachment 690095 View attachment 690097 This is a Gardenline 4 stroke chainsaw that Aldi sells. I bought one for a laugh to see if they were any good and was surprised. It cuts quite well with its 3/8 low profile chain. Sounds like a generator when idling and like a 4stroke dirt bike when you rev it up

And so it begins...
:reading:

Edit: It uses chain oil for engine lubrication?? So you can run out of engine oil before the fuel tank runs dry, lol. And I also see future sales of "special" tackified engine oil. Stihl will have a field day with that one.
 
I'd have to go back to using det cord. The cuts aren't as clean, but on the other hand you there were no chains to sharpen.
I wonder how many know what det cord is? I still remember instructors at EOD school using the term "deflagrate" when explaining how quickly det cord goes off. In terms of cutting, shape charges would work better though.

Mr Awesome
 
If battery tech was such that I could cut for 2 days between charges and the chain speed was the same, I would gladly swap a gas powered for an electric. No starting procedure other than pulling the trigger, no gasoline to mix or store, no noise hazard. I fail to see the drawback. The keys would be advanced battery tech and chain speed.
The one drawback may be that chaps do not claim to be as effective with electric and battery powered saws. Stilh says

WARNING FOR CORDED ELECTRIC AND BATTERY CHAINSAW USERS! The fibers may not stop the sprocket on most corded electric chainsaws and some battery-powered chainsaws because of the constant high torque. However, to reduce the severity of injury from accidental contact with the chain, STIHL recommends that leg protection be worn when operating these types of chainsaws.​

So chaps may protect when one is using a wimpy battery powered saw, but don't count on it if you have a pwerful battery saw.
 
Yep, I'd still be running a chainsaw whether it be a battery powered or 4 stroke saw. I'd probably build one from parts i have around.
 
The one drawback may be that chaps do not claim to be as effective with electric and battery powered saws.

The cause of that is the high torque produced by electric saws pull the kevlar fibers through the drive gear instead of stalling the engine like they do in a 2 stroke. That could be solved with a sensor that detected a spike in current draw or torque that would indicate a jam and then shut off the motor. A torque transducer could detect the jam and stop the saw. Battery power is a long long way from being there anyway.
 
And so it begins...
:reading:

Edit: It uses chain oil for engine lubrication?? So you can run out of engine oil before the fuel tank runs dry, lol. And I also see future sales of "special" tackified engine oil. Stihl will have a field day with that one.
It has always had at least half a tank of oil left when it runs out of fuel. The chain oiler is not adjustable so the oil would only run out if it is not topped up when you refuel. The manual recommends using 10-30 full synthetic oil but i know people have run mineral oil in them. I think the chain oiler is the biggest problem with the saw. It doesnt oil enough when cutting dry hardwood when you cut using the full bar length buried in a limb. It seems ok in green wood, but when you cut dry hardwood where sparks are flying off the chain it could do with more chain oil.
 
2 stroke or nothing for me. I could care less about a electric chainsaw, zero interest to me no matter what the level of technology is with them.
 
I have to ask this question. If you solely heat with firewood and say you will only cut with 2 stroke a saw but what if 2 stroke saws are not an option then what would you cut with?
 
I’m debating whether I want to sell my 017. It’s a good little saw, but I just don’t hardly ever use it anymore. When I need a small saw I usually reach for a cordless saw. They’re just way more convenient.

So at this point cordless electric saws have effectively replaced 30cc saws for me. Perhaps if they perfect graphene batteries in the future I’ll replace my larger saws as well.

For me, it’s all about what cuts wood best. I’ve got no special attachment to 2 strokes. They just happen to be the best technology currently available.
 
Electric might be OK.
4 stroke would quickly be annoying. You'll be using a wheelbarrow to move your saws because of the extra weight. And everytime you hold it in an 90 degree angle for a longer time, your pistons wil try to come out of your exhaust.
I ones used a battery saw in a tree, and loved it.
Trying to start even a 50cc when you can't move freely is really frustrating. And the torque range is also terrific.
I must admit I love being outside with some two stroke machinery.
But the engineer in me needs to block the thought about the inefficiency.
I don't think the noise is a plus.

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
You can hold a 4-mix at pretty much any angle and they work fine. But i find I like my battery chainsaw when chipping up limbs. Just grab and go, no pull starting is really nice. Does it have the character of a 2 stroke engine, certainly not, however, it's way more efficient time wise for me.
 
Back
Top