If synthetic premium oils are so good?

[mdavlee]

Your question, if you would stop fawning over your self long enough to let communication flow BOTH ways, has been answered a dozen times. Just because you aren't getting the answer you want doesn't mean the question wasn't answered!





Well thank you "Oh Great One" for leaving your ivory tower long enough to come all the way down here amidst "we little people" to share your great wisdom. Please find it in your heart to forgive us for not bowing down and kissing your royal ass as you cast your pearls of wisdom among us lowly swine. So kind of you to presume to enlighten us on how we spend our pittance and protect our investments!!!
You have one hell of a nerve presuming to educate the populace here.
We have done tens of thousands of dollars worth of research and years of comparing results.





You haven't begun to see venomous replies yet, but this one might give you a clue as to what you have in store if you persist in your condescending arrogance. In short, YOU ATTITUDE SUCKS!!!
You have brought nothing new to this site with this thread as we the unknowledgeable hashed this out long before you ever decided to grace us with your presence.
Again in short, YOU AREN'T NEARLY AS SMART AS YOU THINK YOU ARE!
Even Calvin knew when the cards were against him. Maybe you can look him up and take some lessons!!!!!
Now put THAT in your pipe and extinguish it with whatever kind of oil you like!
I tried to be patient as I'm used to working with those with "special needs" but sometimes you just have to hear the truth "warts and all!!!


Mike

You tell em Mike. I'm too mad to:banghead:

Bel ray at 3 oz per gallon

 

[bradislav]

More oil equals more power, and it does improve ring seal, in particularly at high rpm's. Any of the top 2T oils will work fine at 50:1 however you now have a smaller margin for error, and when you start getting into ported saws everything changes. Wider ports, more compression, more rpm's, more heat the list goes on. Most who run 2T oils are running ported saws and simply use the same mix in all of their saws regardless. Tests have shown temperature differences between 32:1 and 50:1 to be negligible at best. I implore you and other to read through passed oil threads, I even posted a writeup from a chemical engineer that works for Fuchs.



Synthetic oil isn't necessarily about friction, it's mostly about stability, shear strength and other desirable properties associated with ester based oils.

if I mix full synthetic for a chainsaw that has probably only been used with mineral mix,will it affect the engine in any negative way? there's black foulings on the piston.

 

[cookies]

I mix at roughly 32-1 using fd rated oil
Think of the oil as a river moving through the saws internal parts lubricating, sealing, transferring heat, cleaning and carrying trash that made it past the air and fuel filter. imo the added oil moves dirt/sawdust fines through the engine with the least wear, increases not only the ring seal but also increases the film seal between the piston and the cylinder wall transferring more heat away and reducing wear. The added oil also keeps the bearings washed clean reducing the ability of trash getting between the crank seals and the crank.
If you put synthetic engine oil in a older or well used 4 cycle engine ran on dino oil for a decade it will leak/weep past old seals...rope seals weep anyway but synthetic worsens it.

 

[bradislav]

I mix at roughly 32-1 using fd rated oil
Think of the oil as a river moving through the saws internal parts lubricating, sealing, transferring heat, cleaning and carrying trash that made it past the air and fuel filter. imo the added oil moves dirt/sawdust fines through the engine with the least wear, increases not only the ring seal but also increases the film seal between the piston and the cylinder wall transferring more heat away and reducing wear. The added oil also keeps the bearings washed clean reducing the ability of trash getting between the crank seals and the crank.
If you put synthetic engine oil in a older or well used 4 cycle engine ran on dino oil for a decade it will leak/weep past old seals...rope seals weep anyway but synthetic worsens it.

i got my hands on a 24 year old 395xp,great compression,the piston has a black layer on top tho and the exhaust port has a lot of carbon deposit, I was thinking to put full synthetic husqvarna oil but I'm afraid the foulings might get loose and damage the engine,is it possible for that to happen?