ignition chip

[Greg Gauntner]

thank you for the input .im going to stick with the points system. i do have a bad condenser and was wondering if i can put one in from an 1-41 that definatly sparks great , just to see if thats the only prob. i should say that my points are clean but out of adjustment as to worn crank lobe they will open to .......015 maxed out screw hole... file hole for more adj? just want to check things out before i start ordering all kinds of parts. saw has good compression.ran good about 3 years ago then just sat under the work bench. so far ive completely cleaned her up. checked carb looks good except diaphram looks a little streched, no junk inside or goop im gonna order a rebuild kit for it if i can get her to fire. its just nice to have a big saw to use when you got big stuff to cut. thanx Greg

 

[Okie]

Yes you can use your other condenser as a test. I've even installed a test condenser onto the kill wire that is going. to the kill switch. This sounds strange but it is electrically the same point as when the condenser is connected to the points under the flywheel. I've even connected a automotive test condenser to this wire and grounded it good to see if the old condenser under the flywheel is Open and lost it's capacity. Sometimes you will still have fire with a open bad condenser but it will be weak fire.
I do not fully understand what you are indicating about file hole for more adjustment.
One thing I will say about points is I've never had good reliable trustworthy luck filing old points or even re-gapping old points. Filing and re-working old pitted points or glazed points is kinda in the same category as peeing into the wind. Do not forget that AFTER installing and gapping new points drag a dollar bill through them when closed to clean the oil glaze and I usually do not completely torque the flywheel nut until I at least see fire. (do not start the engine) just check for good fire. If no fire the flywheel is easier to get off for a go back.

I've found by doing a saved search new old stock points on flea bay for the old Mac's and I've also found them by using the OEM part number which I can usually find a chainsawr.com sometimes faster.

One good sign of fuel or carb issues on the old mac's is you see some fuel or wetness in the carb air box. this can be from the fuel hose leaking or a bad carb diaphragm. The Tilloston site has a real good troubleshooting sheet and how to kit, test, etc. Them old Tillotsons are kinda bullet proof if some Bubba has not mis-treated them with bend adjustments. If you are going into a Tillotson for a kit ask us and we can give you some tips, like for example the little cork gasket on the bottom is usually not the correct size in the kit, (close but no cigar) so try to remove the bottom without damaging the little cork gasket.
Do you know what type of carb you have?
Like maybe a Tillotson HL63 or HL87? You can go to the Tillotson site or chainsawr and see what yuours looks like. If it's a Tillotson you can usually get a kit for them on ebay for approx $10 with free shipping.
Does it look anything like this one that was on flea bay?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/McCulloch-...HmgBRpJmFA%3D&orig_cvip=true&nordt=true&rt=nc
Stay calm when flogging the old Mac is the main thing. They can be a slight learning curve.

 

[Okie]

You will probably get more replies and opinions if you will start a new thread over in the forums section using the model of your Mac, etc, instead of relying on this old thread about ignition chips.

Give me a heads up notice if you do and I'll visit?

 

[Greg Gauntner]

hey thanks for all the help ...no panic yet . greg

 

[SEAM]

hey thanks for all the help ...no panic yet . greg

If I remember correctly (has been a number of years) you can simply disconnect the points wire from the coil and connect the module instead (I use Nova II modules as they have a separate ground an can be reversed).

 

[BALZOUT RACESHOP]

I tried posting this in the mcculloch page since i'm working on macs, but i'll try to get a response here.

I've got a question about installing a ignition chip on mcculloch saws. I currently only have one on a SP80 and a SP81, I really like the way it runs. I've tried unsuccessfully to install one on a SP105 and today I couldn't get one to work on a PM60. There are two ways to install, positive ground and negative ground. How do I know what type Of ground is on the saw?

More info: on both failed attempts the saw would run good for about 30 secs then no spark at all. The chip will not work again after that.

 

[BALZOUT RACESHOP]

WILL IT WORK ON A MCCOLLOCH 1-76 JUST GOT THE SAW WAS GRAMPA GOT IT NEW IN 1962 WHAT A BEAST 36'' BAR

 

[Okie]

This thread is kinda old.
You might try going to the regular chainsaw threads at this link and post so as to get more replies. Your post will get sometimes get buried fast with other posts if not many replies, so to keep it on top you will have to ask or reply to your thread to keep it on page one.
https://www.arboristsite.com/community/forums/chainsaw.9/
Now in reference to you post #26 about + and neg chip polarity using NOVA chips. I first connect them with pos polarity and if I get spark and no start or saw starts but out of time or the rope is hard to pull through indicating timing off I reverse polarity and try again. What you are experiencing with the NOVA II chips is what I seen when used on the !-40-,1-50 Mac's, erratic and no long term life and some wanted pos and some wanted neg., only ran for little while. Never did get a good run operation with the Nova II chips.
The polarity is suppose to relate to the polarity of the magnets on the flywheel as to which enters the mag first but NOVA chip is hit and miss, mostly miss.
The chip idea of not having to pull the flywheel for installing was mainly why I was testing and I had a 1-53 with bad points and vintage replacement points/condenser was priced out of sight when I first went to looking for replacements and I also had some Homies that I was going to use the chips on but found out fast to just stick with OEM points systems on the chainsaws.
I have not tested the Rotary chips, but recently used a no longer manu'ed ATOM chip on a Homie saw and seems ok so far. (converted from electronic Mag to points mag and a Atom chip BECAUSE the block has no provision for mounting points and no points crank lobe.

Summary: (what you need to do is forget about the chips for your Mac and find a set of new points and condenser for your old Mac.
You will hear SOME guys say that they can FILE points and make them ok. Filing points is in the same category as peeing into the wind. When the polished coating is worn off, pitted or the rubbing block worn filing is only a temp fix. Even re-gapping OLD worn points is asking for trouble. Points can be dressed and re-stored if they are only dirty or have the oil film. I have some very expensive diamond coated points dressing files and I know from experience when I touch them to old worn out points it's only to get a temporary run/test. AND CONSTANTLY PULLING THE FLYWHEEL TO FILE AND ADJUST OLD POINTS IS ASKING FOR TROUBLE, INCREASING THE CHANCES OF RUINING THE FLYWHEEL OR CRANK ESPECIALLY IF YOU USE THE WHACK METHOD OF REMOVING.
I have some old big Mac's that points ignition are 50 years old and still going strong. I went to ebay and did a search (and also a saved search) and finally seen a listing for 2 or 3 sets of NEW Old Stock points and condensers from a guy dirt cheap. You have to watch out for the word VINTAGE or Kart engine parts, they use that word to jack up the price on old junk Mac parts..

 

[joeymt33]

That was a long read, thank you.

With all that said, my chips are still doing good. I had some over heat but moved them further from engine heat. They seems to be very reliable and don’t need maintenance

 

[Okie]

That was a long read, thank you.

With all that said, my chips are still doing good. I had some over heat but moved them further from engine heat. They seems to be very reliable and don’t need maintenance

exactly what model/type chips are you using?
Are you using in of the chips in the old Mac 1-40, 1-50 or 250's?

 

[joeymt33]

exactly what model/type chips are you using?
Are you using in of the chips in the old Mac 1-40, 1-50 or 250's?

I’m using the nova 2 on SP 80 and 81.

 

[Okie]

I’m using the nova 2 on SP 80 and 81.

Is that the one that you can reverse the polarity or is the polarity fixed at positive only?

 

[joeymt33]

Is that the one that you can reverse the polarity or is the polarity fixed at positive only?

Honestly I can’t remember because it’s been a while since I looked at the instructions.

 

[joeymt33]

Is that the one that you can reverse the polarity or is the polarity fixed at positive only?

Honestly I can’t remember because it’s been a while since I looked at the instructions.

 

[Okie]

Honestly I can’t remember because it’s been a while since I looked at the instructions.

The Nova II reverse polarity chips have two spade terminals on the chip and the single pos polarity only have one terminal on the chip.
I just got through converting a Homelite Super EZ from electronic ign (Blue coil of Death) to regular points ignition, points flywheel and used a NLA old Blue Atom chip and got very good preliminary test runs. The failed electronic ign saw did not have the points lobe on the crank is why I had to use the chip. The NLA Atom chip (think maybe is was termed #7 BLUE of their chips and was from a old non-running EZ. I've heard of some guys that had to remove the flywheel key permanently and play with timing so as to get a good run when using the chips, timing would be little too fast.

 

[joeymt33]

The Nova II reverse polarity chips have two spade terminals on the chip and the single pos polarity only have one terminal on the chip.
I just got through converting a Homelite Super EZ from electronic ign (Blue coil of Death) to regular points ignition, points flywheel and used a NLA old Blue Atom chip and got very good preliminary test runs. The failed electronic ign saw did not have the points lobe on the crank is why I had to use the chip. The NLA Atom chip (think maybe is was termed #7 BLUE of their chips and was from a old non-running EZ. I've heard of some guys that had to remove the flywheel key permanently and play with timing so as to get a good run when using the chips, timing would be little too fast.

It’s coming back to me now, The nova 2 does have two spade terminals. The ground wire connects to the screw that fastens the chip to the saw. I had a couple fail until I moved them far as I could from engine heat.

I’m also running one on a Mini Mac 170 that had a coil fail. I believe that one had the same issue as what you were talking about. I changed to the only spare coil I had which was a points type coil so I had to use a chip

 

[Okie]

It’s coming back to me now, The nova 2 does have two spade terminals. The ground wire connects to the screw that fastens the chip to the saw. I had a couple fail until I moved them far as I could from engine heat.

I’m also running one on a Mini Mac 170 that had a coil fail. I believe that one had the same issue as what you were talking about. I changed to the only spare coil I had which was a points type coil so I had to use a chip

The NOVA II chips I had failing erratically on the big Mac's were located away from engine heat and they could receive flywheel good air flow and I had scraped the metal to bare and also tried using a electronic heat sink product and still got a fail. Some would run good for awhile and just fail to re-start, others would be out of time, some would want a reverse polarity to get fire indicating that the new chips were not giving the same results on the same saw. When I contacted the seller about the chips failing they gave me a refund and said to just throw them in the trash and that they had same complaints from others and were going to stop selling them. After that bad experience with the big mac saws I did not try any Nova II chips in Homelites. and the seller actually confirming my complaints as legit and giving a refund.

 

[joeymt33]

There seems to be no rhyme or reason as to why they fail for some and work for some.

 

[Okie]

There seems to be no rhyme or reason as to why they fail for some and work for some.

Yes to that.
I even tried holding my mouth different when going for the first test of the new ones after the I had failures of the others. (and I'm a Lic'ed First Class Electronic Tech with Radar endorsements and a Registered Journeyman Electrician, but again I've seen lots of generic type (and OEM) electronic's that are just not long term reliable, so not really a big surprise to me.
Seen lots of OEM electronic ignition failures on the FORD MOTOR COMPANY trucks back in the late 70's through the 80's. Timing would even be off on some of the Ford engines by as much as 15 degrees when their failed electronic modules were replaced with a OEM module. Replacement modules were approx $100 then and usually lasted through the warranty before failure. I suggested to people that they carry a spare module so they would not have to walk home and they took my advice.

 

[Howsitgoineh]

Im looking into these chips for my old saws. looks interesting as I'd like to upgrade all of my saws from the points and condenser..
Does anyone here have a solution to get a Pioneer P21 upgraded to electronic? I have yet to find a coil that will fit, and the flywheel has got 2 magnets, so I suppose this chip isn't an option. I've gone through two OEM coils on this saw and I want a permanent solution, its one of my favourite saws but she's not running right now
any help appreciated!