ignition chip

[Okie]

Im looking into these chips for my old saws. looks interesting as I'd like to upgrade all of my saws from the points and condenser..
Does anyone here have a solution to get a Pioneer P21 upgraded to electronic? I have yet to find a coil that will fit, and the flywheel has got 2 magnets, so I suppose this chip isn't an option. I've gone through two OEM coils on this saw and I want a permanent solution, its one of my favourite saws but she's not running right now
any help appreciated!

HowsitgoXXX:

You will probably get faster info about your pioneer plus your other saws if you will open a NEW thread about converting your pioneer to electonic.
I've had better luck on the old saws that came out with points and condensers by staying with points and condensers instead of doing the electronic convert. (and I'm also a electronic tech and a electrician)
About only thing that I keep a chip around for is for testing a problem saw that might be the points and condenser erratic and I'll rig a chip just to see if runs any better or runs good. If it does I replace both the points and condenser. I've got points type ignition saws that are 40 years old and still the same points/condenser and coil.
I have some Homie EZ that come out with electronic, the mag's failed which was common and the mag cost $100 for a non-reliable replacement and I converted them to a points mag for awhile until the guys on here put me onto a $15 electronic coil that I could install on the old core. Bottom line is the chips just are not reliable on some saws and I would recommend staying with points and condenser on most saws but I'm not familiar with your Pioneer.

Kinda strange to me that your Pioneer magneto's keeps failing. Sometimes a bad erratic spark plug wire will cause a mag's secondary winding to burn out due to increased back feed voltage and arc over inside the coil's secondary winding. (once they arc one time internally they burn a carbon trail that then acts like fast acting cancer getting worse until total failure.

 

[Brufab]

I'm getting ready to put a chip in a remington 660. It's missing the points, condensor, and points box cover plate. So you guys start with negative ground? I have multiple wires coming out of coil and I believe they all went to the same terminal I believe so not sure what to do with the bare wires. Also flywheel has 2 magnets next to eachother with about 1/2" gap.

 

[Ikeholt]

I have another technique that I've used successfully on over a dozen vintage saw coils, especially McCullochs. Instead of spending ten bucks or more on a chip, just get a Husky 55 aftermarket solid state coil. Take your old school coil off the metal laminate. Then just drill holes in your old laminate and bolt the Husky coil to it using the original holes in the Husky laminate. Yeah, crazy but it works. Only takes ten minutes. Costs about twelve bucks.

 

[Okie]

I have another technique that I've used successfully on over a dozen vintage saw coils, especially McCullochs. Instead of spending ten bucks or more on a chip, just get a Husky 55 aftermarket solid state coil. Take your old school coil off the metal laminate. Then just drill holes in your old laminate and bolt the Husky coil to it using the original holes in the Husky laminate. Yeah, crazy but it works. Only takes ten minutes. Costs about twelve bucks.

Can you post up some pictures of the Husky laminate coil bolted to the OEM laminations installed inside a Mac saw?
I'm wondering about enough room to get the side plate re-installed also?

I've installed Husky modules onto EZ Homiies but I found that the Husky modules coil would not fit onto some saws OEM laminations, so that is why you do the drill and bolt on. The 3rd let on the Husky when doing your mod would not align right by the flywheel magnets also and are you cutting the 3rd leg off the oem lamination so the husky coil will fit?
Also when using a Husky electronic mod into a Homie EZ a points type flywheel would not work (no ignition fire) because the electronic Husky module and the Homie Modules require a opposite polarity flywheel magnets as compared to a points flywheel???
Can you tell us more about this? (I've got some old 1-43 and 53 Macs that I can experiment with?

 

[Ikeholt]

I'm going to try to post a photo. This is a McCulloch Super 250 with an aftermarket Husky 55 coil. Original metal laminate bolted to the saw in original position. Center leg was cut out to make room for the solid state coil. One bolt holding new coil in place. I do not have the kill switch wire hooked up. Does it run? You bet, starts on first pull. It might take a couple attempts for me to get a photo on here, I haven't tried for years.

 

[Ikeholt]

Here's another photo.

 

[Ikeholt]

One more.

 

[Brufab]

One more.

Cool conversion. I'm waiting to put a chip in a old Remington saw. I have 2 wires coming out of coil, my coil doesn't have the terminalat the coil. I have a wire with insulation and a bare wire. Looks like they went to the same terminal on the points.

 

[Okie]

Good info: Thanks for the pictures
The Husky 55 Anzac module is the same one I used for the Homie blue coil of death EZ mods.
I've got a some of the old Mac 140&1-50 series saws,(ign same as the 250) and spare Mac magneto's and Husky 55 modules already in shop. I had previously tried the Nova II atom convert (which replaces the points/condenser with no long term reliability and timing was not correct for my Mac's so I just went back to points. I do have a #7 Blue Atom chip (old and obsolete)that I keep around just to do a sub test replacement bypass of points and condensers. The old Blue #7 Atom chip has been reliable and trustworthy as a test. Atom at one time made electronic ignition chips that were numbered for the different ignition applications.
The Husky 55 module mods I did on the EZ's got a very fast start and good powerful engine operation. The N pole of the flywheel magnet HAD TO ENTER the Husky module lamination legs FIRST when used on the EZ's. (I had to use the electronic flywheel) The points flywheel with opposite polarity magnets would not produce enough fire to get a run. I spun the points flywheel with a electric drill in opposite direction as a confirm test and it would give good fire.

I'll give your mod a convert test one of these days in one of my old HEAVY Mac's. .

 

[heimannm]

Tom - thanks for the photos, I was going to ask but someone beat me to it. What you have in your photos is pretty much what I imaged as you described it.

Brufab - the bare wire should go to a good ground, the other wire from the coil is the primary lead which would go to the points or chip.

Mark

 

[Brufab]

Tom - thanks for the photos, I was going to ask but someone beat me to it. What you have in your photos is pretty much what I imaged as you described it.

Brufab - the bare wire should go to a good ground, the other wire from the coil is the primary lead which would go to the points or chip.

Mark

Thanks heimannm! I really appreciate you sharing that info with me. I will update the thread with how things go. The chip should be here today or tomarrow and the saw is on the bench awaiting it. Thanks again! Much appreciated!

 

[Okie]

Some of the Nova chips have TWO terminals and their polarity can be reversed. The chips with only one terminal are fixed polarity, just wire and test. The wire that is (was) going to the points/condenser kill switch wire is the one to connect to the chip.
First use the Neg ground polarity, if no run switch to pos ground polarity and test.
Sometimes a engine will indicate out of time by trying to kick back during start. To correct such they remove the flywheel and remove the key and play with timing.

 

[Brufab]

Chip install on remington super 660 went well. Saw is negative ground. Fired on 1st pull on prime. Also rebuilt Carter ND carb. Won't know more for a day or 2 when I have more time to gas it up and see how things really are. No spark on positive ground btw. any suggestions or thoughts are welcomed and appreciated. This was my 1st try at chip conversion.

 

[heimannm]

The chip should stay cool in that location as well as being far enough away from the magnets and the coil so as to prevent any "cross talk".

Mark

 

[Brufab]

Thanks heimannm, that lil bit of info you gave me helped alot.

 

[Brufab]

I managed to tuck it in alil nicer, the air flow coming into filter box should keep the chip cool