Inboard, or outboard clutch/drum assemblies. Which is better?

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skeer007

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I've only ever had outboards, but ever time I gaze as some Stihl/Husqy/etc with an inboard I get all dreamy-eyed. Man so sleek, and clean. and easy to clean too!

I'm asking which is better knowing full well the most common answer is probably 'it depends' :)
 
I've only ever had outboards, but ever time I gaze as some Stihl/Husqy/etc with an inboard I get all dreamy-eyed. Man so sleek, and clean. and easy to clean too!

I'm asking which is better knowing full well the most common answer is probably 'it depends' :)
Might as well start an oil thread, that horse has been beat too!
 
Depends. Inboard lends to a narrower profile of the saw, better handling. But more heat closer to the bearing and not as much room under the cover to clear chips.
Out board is a bulkier, doesn't handle as well. Clears chips better and has more air space to dissipate heat from the clutch. For heavy duty applications like milling I tend to think the outboard clutch is better then the inboard. For a nimble felling/limbing saw I prefer inboard.
Now having said that I have saws I use for both felling, limbing, and on the mill and they all work just fine. When it comes to larger saws I do tend to grab the 390xp for felling over the 394xp. It just handles better imo. The 394xp does have more power but it's just a bit unwieldy. Does great on the mill though.
All a matter of opinion though. Plenty more to come.
 
I prefer an inboard clutch / outboard sprocket, all things equal.

Much easier to mount / dismount a chain loop (especially, if bar is jammed in a tree limb).

Easier to clean under side cover, and most pieces (don’t have to remove clutch).

Easier to inspect and change drive sprockets (rim or spur), as well as clutch idler bearing.

Philbert
 
I prefer an inboard clutch / outboard sprocket, all things equal.

Much easier to mount / dismount a chain loop (especially, if bar is jammed in a tree limb).

Easier to clean most pieces (don’t have to remove clutch).

Easier to inspect and change drive sprockets (rim or spur), as well as clutch idler bearing.

Philbert

I totally agree.
 
After growing up with smaller Husqvarna saws with inboard clutches, the 572 with an outboard clutch was a shocker. I‘ve seen several huskys with clutch covers that have been damaged by someone trying to rotate the brake band cam open with a scrench as a prybar because they forgot to release the brake before taking it off. I carry this modified scrench in my kit just for that.

A633E2A0-EE5B-4B14-B427-889EA0458229.jpeg

EDIT: Pretty sure I’m backwards. 572 has the INBOARD clutch. Smaller Husqvarna saws have the clutch on the clutch cover, which is OUTBOARD.
 
Inboard for me. First reason is I switch between a 7 and 8 pin sprocket on some of my saws. It's just easier to do with the inboard.

The other reason...I'm not too proud to admit that I've had a few incidents where I had to pull the powerhead off when the bar got stuck. It's just easier with the inboard.
 
Inboard for me. First reason is I switch between a 7 and 8 pin sprocket on some of my saws. It's just easier to do with the inboard.

The other reason...I'm not too proud to admit that I've had a few incidents where I had to pull the powerhead off when the bar got stuck. It's just easier with the inboard.
Amen to that!
 

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