Is this a good cut?

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Why are there so many folks talking bout falling without a face cut.......I guess I missed something
 
id say u need to work on ur cutting skills by the time u smash a few saws u will learn how to bore cut its fairly simple notch 1/4 of the tree pull the saw out stick it in behind ur notch and saw into it leave an inch of holdind wood no more so it dont bust the tree and saw backwards and leave urself about 4 inch of a trigger to cut then step back and cut the trigger biggerthe timber easier to cut . ive also cut trees by 4 legging them do not notch take the saw stick it in the front were u would notch bore straight into it cut back right to left leaving 4 inches on each side and repeat that on the back side take the saw cut the legs on the back and the 4 inches of wood left on each side of the front of the tree will guide it were u want it not for small trees.

You're kidding, right?
 
id say u need to work on ur cutting skills by the time u smash a few saws u will learn how to bore cut its fairly simple notch 1/4 of the tree pull the saw out stick it in behind ur notch and saw into it leave an inch of holdind wood no more so it dont bust the tree and saw backwards and leave urself about 4 inch of a trigger to cut then step back and cut the trigger biggerthe timber easier to cut . ive also cut trees by 4 legging them do not notch take the saw stick it in the front were u would notch bore straight into it cut back right to left leaving 4 inches on each side and repeat that on the back side take the saw cut the legs on the back and the 4 inches of wood left on each side of the front of the tree will guide it were u want it not for small trees.

With this style of falling, the theory of natural selection will soon visit you......
 
well apparently none of you have cut venear logs before so idk LOL I Log everday for a living so for me those are the safest cuts ur not riding a tree out when it blows up on you been there screw that..basical what iam saying is cut the center out first then cut the trigger simple no blowed uped trees or split and it goes were every you want regardles if it is a normal hinge or you us the front of the tree as ur hinge works the same
 
well apparently none of you have cut venear logs before so idk LOL I Log everday for a living so for me those are the safest cuts ur not riding a tree out when it blows up on you been there screw that..basical what iam saying is cut the center out first then cut the trigger simple no blowed uped trees or split and it goes were every you want regardles if it is a normal hinge or you us the front of the tree as ur hinge works the same

stump jumping isn't safe .........and there are better ways to put sticks on the deck and safer and yes I have cut for veneer.
 
and the front of a stick does not work the same as a hinge or proper face
 
well apparently none of you have cut venear logs before so idk LOL I Log everday for a living so for me those are the safest cuts ur not riding a tree out when it blows up on you been there screw that..basical what iam saying is cut the center out first then cut the trigger simple no blowed uped trees or split and it goes were every you want regardles if it is a normal hinge or you us the front of the tree as ur hinge works the same

I've cut plenty of veneer. Either I throw in a conventional face and gut the heart out or a humboldt and gut the heart either way, I still have plenty of hinge wood and very little to no fiber pull.
 
well, here's the deal. I have cut vneer timber for 24 years and yes I cut differently than most on here. however the methods explained above don't sound right to me either. ya came on a little strong man. these guys are loggers, don't forget that and ya make lots of friends. some of what ya said I have herd of and done. no they not safe methods you and I both know that. we do use them sometimes to save out the tricky ones. only cutters with extraordinary expieriance do these things and then with a certain amount of risk. we must all be carful giving out advice, as we never really know who will read it. wew! all that crap said, stay and bs with us. ya might even learn sumthin.... I have
 
id say u need to work on ur cutting skills by the time u smash a few saws u will learn how to bore cut its fairly simple notch 1/4 of the tree pull the saw out stick it in behind ur notch and saw into it leave an inch of holdind wood no more so it dont bust the tree and saw backwards and leave urself about 4 inch of a trigger to cut then step back and cut the trigger biggerthe timber easier to cut . ive also cut trees by 4 legging them do not notch take the saw stick it in the front were u would notch bore straight into it cut back right to left leaving 4 inches on each side and repeat that on the back side take the saw cut the legs on the back and the 4 inches of wood left on each side of the front of the tree will guide it were u want it not for small trees.

Hahaha. I did most of my saw smashing better than 25 years ago, Stud. I did run over one with a trailer a few years ago though. :laugh:
You didn't put your age in your profile, so I don't know for sure, but I'd venture to guess by looking at your profile and your post's that I was falling timber when you were still crappin' yellow.
There are a few trees that need to be bore cut, but very few in my book.
Any one who gives advice saying that every tree needs a "notch" :laugh: 1/4 the diameter of the tree, and one inch, no more, holding wood needs to re-evaluate their falling skills before giving advice to anyone.

You sound like a directional faller to me. Yep, whatever direction it's leaning, that's the direction it's falling. :laugh:

Andy
 
well apparently none of you have cut venear logs before so idk LOL I Log everday for a living so for me those are the safest cuts ur not riding a tree out when it blows up on you been there screw that..basical what iam saying is cut the center out first then cut the trigger simple no blowed uped trees or split and it goes were every you want regardles if it is a normal hinge or you us the front of the tree as ur hinge works the same

Whoa there ol' buddy. Use the front of the tree as your hinge? Jeez o whiz! And you had the balls to tell me that I need to work on my falling skills? Hahaha
I really hope you survive long enough to learn.

Andy
 
A picture's worth a thousand words.


Ok guy's, let me have it. :msp_rolleyes:

Andy
attachment.php

View attachment 299810
 
I'm going to assume the majority of the trees in the background are growing vertically since that how it works in aus... I that's the case, the back cut is level, and the camera wasn't. Just sayin' ;-)

Shaun
 
I'm going to assume the majority of the trees in the background are growing vertically since that how it works in aus... I that's the case, the back cut is level, and the camera wasn't. Just sayin' ;-)

Shaun
I think you may be right. Andy, can you clear this up for us please? Did the sweat off your brow fall at your feet or two feet from the stump?
 

Haha. I was wondering how long it would take.
I don't remember if Shaun is right, and the camera was crooked or if the faller is crooked. :laugh:
At least it's not sloping down toward the hinge. Let's call it a reverse slopping back cut.
If the regular slopping back cut will help push a tree over, then the reverse slopping back cut should help the tree to levitate causing the tree to be easier to skid, causing less ground compaction. :laugh: :cheers:

Andy
 

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