Is this bar still good?

[Sidecarflip]

That decision entirely rests with the owner in my view. Too much or too little is entirely a personal decision. What I said and maintain is a flat bar surface will never present the cutting tooth in an aggressive cutting posture. How much is entirely dependent on the end user, the capability of the motor as well as the number of cutters on a loop and the sharpening technique. I think we all know that square ground chain is more aggressive than skip tooth chipper or even full tooth chipper. Regardless of what the rock is, a flat bar never presents a cutting tooth at the proper cut position to cut efficiently and it don't matter how the depth gages are set either.

Not something I get overly concerned about as I use my saws infrequently anyway. The 'rock' comes into play with serious use and hours on any chainsaw. Like I stated, the only bar I have ground is the original bar on my ancient 028. The rest are fine. If I do observe a 'burr' developing on the outside edge of the rails, I remove it with a flat ******* cut file and carry on. Kind of like how I prefer a grease port in the nose of my sprocket nosed bars. I always grease them prior to using them with high quality bearing grease. Just my personal preference.

Again, the issue arises when the drive tangs contact the bottom of the rail. Once that happens, it's time for a new bar.

 

[FXJenkins]

Here is the bar with two straight lines - is this enough rock?

View attachment 1222297

don't know...but with those racing stripes it sure is purdy!

 

[Franny K]

maintain is a flat bar surface will never present the cutting tooth in an aggressive cutting posture.

I believe the curvature is there to keep the chain from derailing. If it was straight the amount the drive links could be pulled out of the slot or groove would be more. I say this in part because I have a 14 inch Oregon laminated hard nose bar that seems to have a virtually straight section and I gave up on using it because of derailments. I have a 16 inch very similar bar without the virtually straight section, and it is useable.

 

[EchoShindaiwaMakitaDolmar]

The term "rocker'd" or "rockered" is familiar to me- the blades on ice hockey skates are rocker'd/slightly curved tip to tail, and not straight/level, end to end- like the bottom rails of a rocking chair, but not as curved.

 

[MacAttack]

So on the topic of bar maintenance....what bar dressing tools are everyone using to keep your bars flat and 90 degrees? There's about a million options out there.

 

[SteveSr]

So on the topic of bar maintenance....what bar dressing tools are everyone using to keep your bars flat and 90 degrees? There's about a million options out there.

Pferd makes one that was originally designed for skis and snow boards. Oregon also makes one for themselves and in Orange for Stihl.

 

[buzz sawyer]

The term "rocker'd" or "rockered" is familiar to me- the blades on ice hockey skates are rocker'd/slightly curved tip to tail, and not straight/level, end to end- like the bottom rails of a rocking chair, but not as curved.

Good point. https://wissota.com/skate-blade-profile-rocker-explained/

 

[Jethro 2t sniffer]

I get rid of the burrs gently with a cut off disk laid flat and gently wizz them off then just grab a square and a light and run it along n watch the gap. Then gently with said cut off wheel lower the high rail down. Its quite easy.

I use a cut off disk as it's less abrasive and leaves a smooth finish.

Could probably setup a little jig for a belt sander or something.

I close up rails on an anvil and a hammer. Go easy though and a shim slightly smaller than the chain gauge. Smaller for the spring of the rails. That changes from bar to bar also. Some laminated bars just spring too much n never get them right. I don't buy laminated bars I prefer old warn out bars of old saws n fix em up.

The "rock" thing is to keep the chain on. If your cutters ain't bitting then lower your rakers n it certainly will.

 

[buzz sawyer]

I use a large file to remove any burrs on the sides, then use a slowed-down table saw with a sanding disc to square the tops of the rails.

 

[Wood Doctor]

I use a large file to remove any burrs on the sides, then use a slowed-down table saw with a sanding disc to square the tops of the rails.

Absolutely! I do the same thing and have done it almost that way for years. Instead of the slowed-down table saw, I use a 2" dia. drum sander on my drill press. That seems to work just about as well. You can use the table saw surface and its fence to check that the bar does not lean left or right. Two thumbs up!