Is this chain shot?

[chipper1]

Is that possible without overheating the chain on the grinder?

Yes, as Bobby and AHT were saying you will need to take it easy.
No matter what the chain looks like I always take very small passes, I would run that chain around probably 5-6 times on each side myself.
What are you doing with the chain, stumping, just bucking and what type of wood are you cutting.

 

[blades]

typical looking chain after playing in concrete , rocks , dirt. It can be saved for a couple more outings as others have already posted. just do not grind into the tie straps. you you do not need a ton of gullet which on a typical grinder ( 30/ 60 settings) leaves way to much top edge and corner hanging out. that dulls fast- any make of chain. What I do - 65-70 in the vertical, 25 on top plate and I dress the wheel ( 3/16) so the rear side is tapered up away from the tie strap area ( 3/32 worth width wise). gives a longer side cut area that is more straight yet still falls behind the top plate edge. the 25 on the top plate does not dull as quick as 30 does on the corner point. Try not to reduce he depth gauges below .030 - gets to aggressive, depending on saw and wood- can stall saw.

 

[chipper1]

typical looking chain after playing in concrete , rocks , dirt. It can be saved for a couple more outings as others have already posted. just do not grind into the tie straps. you you do not need a ton of gullet which on a typical grinder ( 30/ 60 settings) leaves way to much top edge and corner hanging out. that dulls fast- any make of chain. What I do - 65-70 in the vertical, 25 on top plate and I dress the wheel ( 3/16) so the rear side is tapered up away from the tie strap area ( 3/32 worth width wise). gives a longer side cut area that is more straight yet still falls behind the top plate edge. the 25 on the top plate does not dull as quick as 30 does on the corner point. Try not to reduce he depth gauges below .030 - gets to aggressive, depending on saw and wood- can stall saw.

That's why I was asking what/how he was cutting with it, the saw model would help to, lots of variables.
This particular piece of wood was so chain particular it would cut well, or it would make your saw look like a turd.
Stock 372 although a pretty quick one.

Ported 2172 with 390 carb that's way faster, chain was the downfall. Yes it had a longer bar, but this saw is capable of holding the same or higher rpms as the stock 372 in this wood so it should cut as fast or faster.

 

[lknchoppers]

I have not seen the 2 in 1 for .404

 

[PoulanInPA]

I ground it back over 4 passes on each side. Started with 20 degrees, then on the last 2 went to 30 degrees. It seems good now, but will still become a backup chain.

I was careful not to lean on any given portion for more than a second or so. Lots of taps and small cuts to keep it from overheating.

 

[chipper1]

I ground it back over 4 passes on each side. Started with 20 degrees, then on the last 2 went to 30 degrees. It seems good now, but will still become a backup chain.

I was careful not to lean on any given portion for more than a second or so. Lots of taps and small cuts to keep it from overheating.