Jonsered 2050 Turbo - Dolmar 510 (or 5100)
- Thread starter Carl Anderson
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Carl Anderson
ArboristSite Operative
Hello again everyone. Well, I got my Jonsered running pretty decent yesterday just by tweaking the carb settings a bit. Mixed up a new batch of gas using some Echo high performance synthetic oil which allowed me to go with 50:1. The Jonsered manual said to use 25:1 if using regular oil which is what I had so maybe that was having a negative effect on performance too. I am a little nervous going 50:1 so I added just a touch extra so it's more like 45:1.
So now I need to get a new chain and nobody local had anything in stock. It's a 16 inch bar, 66 drive links and I'm pretty sure it's a .325 pitch. I'm not sure about the gauge. The old reciept says the saw came with a chain brand of Total, number Z528PS. I think that is a .058 gauge but how can I be sure? Maybe I can measure it with a feeler gauge?
If I just decided to get a new bar/chain combo could I use either a .050 or .058 gauge as long as the pitch is the same?
So now I need to get a new chain and nobody local had anything in stock. It's a 16 inch bar, 66 drive links and I'm pretty sure it's a .325 pitch. I'm not sure about the gauge. The old reciept says the saw came with a chain brand of Total, number Z528PS. I think that is a .058 gauge but how can I be sure? Maybe I can measure it with a feeler gauge?
If I just decided to get a new bar/chain combo could I use either a .050 or .058 gauge as long as the pitch is the same?
nmurph
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i would go with the .50 gauge as there are more choices in bars and chains, though this is a somewhat regional issue.
Carl Anderson
ArboristSite Operative
It is pretty snappy when running right and I think I'm getting closer to it being snappy again. Have you done a muffler mod on the 2050? If so any tips or pics? I don't have access to a welder (have welded a little in the past but not the best at it), is it necessary to do the mod on this one?
Carl Anderson
ArboristSite Operative
Ah ha! It is definitely a .058 gauge. I finally found it stamped on the bar in little dots. Could hardly make it out, I must've looked at it 1000 times and knew there was something there but could not make it out until I really cleaned it up, even still it was hard.
I see Bailey's has a 16" .325 pitch 66 link ArborPro bar/chain combo that is the .050 narrow kerf with a WoodlandPRO chain (WP325 20NK) for $28 plus shipping. Seems like a very good price so maybe I'll give it a whirl and get a new .058 chain for my original bar to compare and have a spare setup.
Actually with the narrow kerf maybe I could step up to an 18" bar. I've toyed with an 18 for that saw in the past and thought it could probably handle it but was maybe just a tad too small for it to be ideal. Maybe the narrow kerf (and carb rebuild and possibly the muffler mod if I can do it) would give me a nice setup for the 18" bar.
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Carl Anderson
ArboristSite Operative
I ran it and fiddled with it a little more and it's getting snappier all the time so I'll keep it and do a carb rebuild. I think I'm also going to order the 18" ArborPro .325 pitch, .050 narrow kerf bar and chain combo with the Woodland Pro chain ($30 plus shipping seems good).
The more I clean this saw up and run it, the better it runs and the more I remember how much I love it and it's worth dusting off instead of spending money I don't need to spend on a new saw. So I thought I'd throw a couple of pics out here. You'll see it's in great condition so once I get it running tip top it should be all the saw I need for now.
The more I clean this saw up and run it, the better it runs and the more I remember how much I love it and it's worth dusting off instead of spending money I don't need to spend on a new saw. So I thought I'd throw a couple of pics out here. You'll see it's in great condition so once I get it running tip top it should be all the saw I need for now.
7sleeper
Addicted to ArboristSite
That is great news! Woodland Pro has an excellent reputation around here although I have never tried it out in person (shipping costs are kind of prohibitive
). It was also an excellent idea mixing a new batch of gas&oil with premium 2 stroke oil(Gary will award you sometime in the future
). I also stay around 1:40 and only mix what I really need. That means I only mix one liter ~ 1 quart at a time for my average sawing days. I just mix every other day a new batch, takes something like 3 minutes. And if I don't saw for a few months it doesn't bother me much either.Sounds like you are on the right path!
Happy it seems to be all working out for you. I personally couldn't believe that your saw was such a sucker compared to a 510. It will take some running time(approx. 1-2 tank full) to get the old mix totally out of the system. We here in Europe are totally in the belief that it is ok to step over the log to cut from the other side, so for us the longer bar syndrom, very popular in the US, is quite mysterious. For a muffler mod check out the beginners manuell from good old Lakeside (man I sure hope he is ok! What a loss for this site & for me that he left! He was a real mentor! Besides him some great guys left!). "Sticky: Lakeside53's --361 muffler mod w/photos" It is a sticky thread on the first chainsaw page. I personally am never in such a hurry that I just need to have a muffler mod. Seem's to be something similar like the long bar syndrom, but then again who knows!
This sentence should become an amendment to us all to not forget the basics.
Congrats that you stood through the horrid times and came out strengthend again to fullfil your destiny to save those saws from an horrid death!
7
If Mikefunaro isn't too far away from you, why not buy his PS510 and if the Jonsered looks better than it runs, put it on eBay.
mikefunaro
Addicted to ArboristSite
@taxmantoo,
not to divulge particularly personal information, but we spoke and I have too many chains and air filters and the like that i would want to move with it because they are the peculiar 64link variety for the dolmar bars that I have little use for on other saws.
not to divulge particularly personal information, but we spoke and I have too many chains and air filters and the like that i would want to move with it because they are the peculiar 64link variety for the dolmar bars that I have little use for on other saws.
Carl Anderson
ArboristSite Operative
Yeah, Mike has a great saw with lots of extras, just more stuff than I wanted to buy at the time. I just ordered my carb rebuild kit today, can't wait to get that in the 2050. Will order the new bar/chain soon.
I admit to falling victim to the bigger is better mentality too at times. I think I've only cut a few trees that were bigger than the 16" bar I have. I do have my eye on a couple of bigger ones on my dad's property so I figured if I'm going to switch to the narrow kerf than I might as well go for the 18" bar while I'm at it. Don't think I'd ever try and push it beyond that with this saw.
My dad's Poulan Pro is only about 42cc and it came with an 18" bar and 3/8 pitch chain and it is clearly way more than it can handle, boggs down constantly if I don't hold it back quite a bit. Dad wanted a 16" bar but they didn't have one with a 16". Maybe I'll treat him to a new 16" bar/chain if I can find one with the tensioning screw in the bar like he has. I hate that setup, I wonder if I could put a regular tensioner on that saw somehow.
I admit to falling victim to the bigger is better mentality too at times. I think I've only cut a few trees that were bigger than the 16" bar I have. I do have my eye on a couple of bigger ones on my dad's property so I figured if I'm going to switch to the narrow kerf than I might as well go for the 18" bar while I'm at it. Don't think I'd ever try and push it beyond that with this saw.
My dad's Poulan Pro is only about 42cc and it came with an 18" bar and 3/8 pitch chain and it is clearly way more than it can handle, boggs down constantly if I don't hold it back quite a bit. Dad wanted a 16" bar but they didn't have one with a 16". Maybe I'll treat him to a new 16" bar/chain if I can find one with the tensioning screw in the bar like he has. I hate that setup, I wonder if I could put a regular tensioner on that saw somehow.
Carl Anderson
ArboristSite Operative
Well, I finally did the rebuild and the saw is running strong. It still seems to be a little finicky with the carb settings but that's probably just me not being an expert carb tuner. I basically set it to factory settings and tried to tweak it a little from there but not very much. Going through gas too, but that saw always seemed kinda thirsty so I'm not sure that's much different.
I took the screen off the front of the muffler as well, thinking that might open it up a little more without having to do a muffler mod. The muffler doesn't look to be too full of epa junk from what I can see peeking into it but I did not take it apart. I did richen it up ever so slightly, as people on the muffler mod threads said to do to make sure it's not running too lean. That probably explains the possible extra fuel consumption.
I have a new Oregon 18" Micro-lite pro bar and two Woodlandpro narrow kerf chains on the way from Bailey's so I can't wait to get it all together and do some more cutting. I'll clean it up and take a few pics before I go get it nice and dirty again.
Anyway, it's running pretty strong overall, cut some small to medium trees but it still seems to take an extra split second to rev up to full speed. Not sure if that's all in my head or if I still have some carb tweaking to do. Any thoughts?
I took the screen off the front of the muffler as well, thinking that might open it up a little more without having to do a muffler mod. The muffler doesn't look to be too full of epa junk from what I can see peeking into it but I did not take it apart. I did richen it up ever so slightly, as people on the muffler mod threads said to do to make sure it's not running too lean. That probably explains the possible extra fuel consumption.
I have a new Oregon 18" Micro-lite pro bar and two Woodlandpro narrow kerf chains on the way from Bailey's so I can't wait to get it all together and do some more cutting. I'll clean it up and take a few pics before I go get it nice and dirty again.
Anyway, it's running pretty strong overall, cut some small to medium trees but it still seems to take an extra split second to rev up to full speed. Not sure if that's all in my head or if I still have some carb tweaking to do. Any thoughts?
Carl Anderson
ArboristSite Operative
Oh no, not again
Well, after all that, thinking my J-red was salvaged I have more problems. I think I stored it OK, running it occasionally over the winter and it was running fine this spring. Then all of a sudden it would not run worth a darn. I kind of got fed up with it and bought a new Husky 346XP. I will be even more diligent with running it throughout the winter to prevent fuel problems.
I'm going to try and rebuild the carb on the 2050 again, maybe a new fuel line and filter too. If it runs good I may sell it because I'm afraid it won't get enough use from me to keep it fresh and I'd end up with more carb problems again. There's a guy at my church who is a little down on his luck and had his saw stolen to top it off. Maybe I will give it to him to help him out if I can get it running.
Well, after all that, thinking my J-red was salvaged I have more problems. I think I stored it OK, running it occasionally over the winter and it was running fine this spring. Then all of a sudden it would not run worth a darn. I kind of got fed up with it and bought a new Husky 346XP. I will be even more diligent with running it throughout the winter to prevent fuel problems.
I'm going to try and rebuild the carb on the 2050 again, maybe a new fuel line and filter too. If it runs good I may sell it because I'm afraid it won't get enough use from me to keep it fresh and I'd end up with more carb problems again. There's a guy at my church who is a little down on his luck and had his saw stolen to top it off. Maybe I will give it to him to help him out if I can get it running.
mikefunaro
Addicted to ArboristSite
rather than running the saw over the winter for a few minutes here and then why dont you try one of the following:
A. idle the saw completely out of gas at the end of your fall cutting season.
B. Purchase a quart of stihl motomix or 50fuel and, dump the tank of the old pump gas, and pour in like half a tank of the premix fuel and run the saw enough that it runs through the carb etc.
I'm not exactly sure what's happening with the pump gas, but if you just keep running the saw over the winter on old gas, you're only fixing part of the problem. You're moving a little bit of gas through the saw's fuel lines and carb, but you're moving more old gas in.
I'm not sure if the gumming of the carb and or whatever else is going on is happening because the same gas is pooled in the same place or because fuel of the same age is sitting in the lines. Your story would support the latter.
Either way, both items A and B are now endorsed by most manufacturers as the preferred ways to prepare equipment for storage.
A. idle the saw completely out of gas at the end of your fall cutting season.
B. Purchase a quart of stihl motomix or 50fuel and, dump the tank of the old pump gas, and pour in like half a tank of the premix fuel and run the saw enough that it runs through the carb etc.
I'm not exactly sure what's happening with the pump gas, but if you just keep running the saw over the winter on old gas, you're only fixing part of the problem. You're moving a little bit of gas through the saw's fuel lines and carb, but you're moving more old gas in.
I'm not sure if the gumming of the carb and or whatever else is going on is happening because the same gas is pooled in the same place or because fuel of the same age is sitting in the lines. Your story would support the latter.
Either way, both items A and B are now endorsed by most manufacturers as the preferred ways to prepare equipment for storage.
Carl Anderson
ArboristSite Operative
That makes sense. That pre-mix is supposed to be alcohol free with stabilizers in it I think. So that is OK to leave in through the winter and run it periodically?
mikefunaro
Addicted to ArboristSite
Yeah my experience has been that using the premixed or small engine fuels (VP SEF94) I dont really even have to run it over the winter, just get it through all the lines with a little bit of a workout and then you're good.
You seem against the idea of idling the saws out; I can understand this but just know I have never heard of a seizure when idling a saw out of gas--i think it's very unlikely to occur.
You seem against the idea of idling the saws out; I can understand this but just know I have never heard of a seizure when idling a saw out of gas--i think it's very unlikely to occur.
Carl Anderson
ArboristSite Operative
I'm not necessarily against running them dry, I do it with my mowers, tiller, etc. I do use my chainsaw occasionally during the winter so I thought I may as well run it a little extra instead of running it dry over and over unless that is the better way to store it.
Carl Anderson
ArboristSite Operative
I haven't given up on the old J-red 2050 either just because I treated myself to a new saw. I got another carb rebuild kit, new fuel line and filter. If it still doesn't run right then it might be more serious and I'll have to decide what to do then. Maybe I'll see about an ultra sound cleaning for the carb before I rebuild it.
Carl Anderson
ArboristSite Operative
Update on the 2050
I finally brought myself to put down the new 346xp long enough to do the carb rebuild and new fuel filter on the 2050. That went well, getting good at it now after doing a few but I can't get the darn thing to idle. It starts if I have the throttle open at least a bit and it will rev up nice and seems to run smooth but once I get off the gas it dies immediately. I have fiddled with the high and low settings on the carb but can't seem to get it right. I set them at 1 1/2 turns out but it seems to want to be at about 1 turn out for both which is where it had been set before when it was running/idling ok.
I really am getting fed up with this saw but I know I'm no expert and I hate to blame the saw, it's just frustrating because I think it's still a good saw if I can just get it going again :bang:. I just want to get it running good and either sell it or give it to the guy at church who could use a helping hand if it's something he can use. I have had a couple of saw guys tell me that particular Zama carb is finicky (C1Q EL1), maybe they are right. :dunno:
I'm going to try fiddling with the carb settings some more today. Hopefully it's just an adjustment that I haven't found the sweet spot yet.
Any advice/suggestions?
I finally brought myself to put down the new 346xp long enough to do the carb rebuild and new fuel filter on the 2050. That went well, getting good at it now after doing a few but I can't get the darn thing to idle. It starts if I have the throttle open at least a bit and it will rev up nice and seems to run smooth but once I get off the gas it dies immediately. I have fiddled with the high and low settings on the carb but can't seem to get it right. I set them at 1 1/2 turns out but it seems to want to be at about 1 turn out for both which is where it had been set before when it was running/idling ok.
I really am getting fed up with this saw but I know I'm no expert and I hate to blame the saw, it's just frustrating because I think it's still a good saw if I can just get it going again :bang:. I just want to get it running good and either sell it or give it to the guy at church who could use a helping hand if it's something he can use. I have had a couple of saw guys tell me that particular Zama carb is finicky (C1Q EL1), maybe they are right. :dunno:
I'm going to try fiddling with the carb settings some more today. Hopefully it's just an adjustment that I haven't found the sweet spot yet.
Any advice/suggestions?
J.W Younger
ass kissing impaired
I may be opening a can of worms here but have you removed the welsh plug yet. Sometimes you can blow compressed air tru the low speed screw hole and pop it out but most times you have to run a screw in it too pull it. If any trash gets in that well its gonna give problems untill its removed.
Carl Anderson
ArboristSite Operative
Yup, I removed the welsh plug when I did the carb rebuild yesterday, being careful to puncture it on the outside edge where the holes are not, and blew threw the holes with carb clean but not compressed air before putting the new one in. The carb clean seemed to flow through fine though. That darn saw is just determined to make me hate it.
