Jonsered Chainsaws

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Kevin I think you'll find that whatever discrepancy there is will be with the range of sideplay of the rimdrive on the spline...as long as the chain and rim are running free between the drum and outside washer/nut you're all set...whether or not it is actually centered on the spline..

OK...was just worried about the 'slop' factor of the drum not being the correct height thickness. Since then, in my Jonny parts box, I found another OE drum. So I'll just use Scott's drum as a backup when needed. Yeah, the sprocket still runs free on the drum splines just fine. Thanks.....

Kevin
 
Begging for jred parts please help

I'm beggin someone to help me our putting my 830 back together . I olny need the top cover n filter for it to be rtr . I also need a big mount bar for it or a way to put the small mount on it please help need the saw for a job I got.commin up 50" maple gotta come down n I dnt have any thing that will pull a long enough bar . A lot of stuff to trade mint husky 55 with parts saw and nice 154se running. A jred 670 that's real nice .I'm prety broke so trade is best can pay shipping no problom . Juss a private guy tryn to make it thanx
 
Just wanted to share a pic. In October I bought my first chainsaw Jonsered 2172 and found this site. I think I may have contracted a small case of CAD. Went from 0 saws to 11 running saws. Here is the running Jonsered collection.
View attachment 295059


295059d1368389258-jonsered-001-jpg
 
Press Release update from Jonsered (FWIW)

Just came across this as part of some work I was doing and noticed Jonsered's connection with Husqvarna.



Jonsered Now Available through National Distributor Network and Tractor Supply Stores Nationwide
Press Release: Husqvarna Group – Wed, Apr 24, 2013 9:00 AM EDT
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CHARLOTTE, N.C., April 24, 2013 /PRNewswire/ -- The Husqvarna Group is proud to announce the Jonsered brand is available in the United States through independent dealers nationwide and supported by a national distributor network. The Jonsered brand will also be supported by Tractor Supply Stores nationwide.
Jonsered is one of the world's most respected brands of power equipment, with a range of products for both professionals and occasional users. Performance, dependability and ergonomic design for comfortable, efficient operation are the hallmarks of Jonsered Power Equipment, as they have been for more than five decades.
Jonsered is much more than just chain saws, though. Jonsered chain saws are known for their legendary quality, and that same high standard is applied to all product production. From blowers to trimmers to brushcutters, each piece of equipment features world-class engineering and performance.
The distributor network supports all Jonsered independent dealers across the United States. These distributors offer the full line of Jonsered products as well as applicable parts and accessories. The Jonsered line will consist of 15 chainsaws ranging from homeowner to professional, with most having multiple bar and chain combinations available, four trimmers / brushcutters, combi-trimmer attachments, one hand held blower, and one backpack blower.
Jonsered dealers offer all products parts and accessories, and after sales service and support for all Jonsered products. Visit Dealers - Jonsered Dealer Locator - Find Local Jonsered Dealers to find your nearest dealer.
To find out more visit www.jonsered.com or Tractor Supply Online Store - - Home Page
Jonsered Brand Promise:
For self-assured, independent people, with an active professional and leisure life, who appreciate great design and the beauty of nature, Jonsered combines feeling and design with power and control.
The Husqvarna Group
The Husqvarna Group is the world's largest producer of outdoor power products including chainsaws, trimmers, lawn mowers and garden tractors. Husqvarna is the European leader in consumer irrigation equipment under the Gardena brand. The Group is also one of the world leaders in cutting equipment and diamond tools for the construction and stone industries.


____

Husqvarna site not yet updated to reflect this.

Brands

The portfolio includes a number of strong brands with Husqvarna, Gardena (Canada) and McCulloch as core premium brands and other brands include PoulanPro, WeedEater, Dixon and Bluebird. The retail chain Sears is one of Husqvarna’s largest customers, selling forestry, park and garden products under the Craftsman brand.

Customers and distribution

In North America the greater part of sales to consumers are channeled through major retailers such as Sears, Lowe’s, Walmart and Home Depot. Husqvarna-branded products are sold mainly through dealers, i.e. small independent retailers who also offer technical service. The main end-users for this brand are professional garden/landscape maintenance companies as well as municipalities and institutions.

The strong distribution network has been developed over many years and is an important competitive advantage. Husqvarna is committed to continuously maintaining and strengthening relations with dealers. This includes enhancing delivery accuracy, improving access to spare parts and offering improved training programs. Husqvarna is also increasing investments in brand-building at points-of-sale in terms of product displays and packaging.

End-users

End-users are mainly; Home and landowners; Professional landscape and ground care and Professional forest and tree care.

Production

The greater part of production is at Group production facilities in the US.

Handheld products such as trimmers and chainsaws in the low-end segment are manufactured at the Group's plants in China.

Handheld products such as chainsaws and clearing saws are supplied by the plant in Huskvarna, Sweden. Handheld products are also manufactured in Brazil.
 
Does anybody know where NOS replacement clutch shoes can be bought for a Jonny 80/90? I thought I had three NOS shoes and needed another for the 80/90, but after looking at pics online, I think what I have are the three clutch shoes for a 70e. I have some used 80/90 sets, but would gladly pay for the correct four NOS shoes and a NOS spring...or do a partial trade with the three NOS 70e shoes that I have and some cash.

Kevin
 
Just wanted to share a pic. In October I bought my first chainsaw Jonsered 2172 and found this site. I think I may have contracted a small case of CAD. Went from 0 saws to 11 running saws. Here is the running Jonsered collection.
View attachment 295059

I forgot one jonsered 920 it's not pretty but its fun to run.
View attachment 297078

The 49sp and the 70E both found as pairs
The 80 was my father's when he was logging.
 
I just finished an extensive job where I had to remove many trees(and buck down to firewood size)-mostly locusts. I took three saws; the Jonny 80 and 90 and the Husky 2100. The saws all ran fine....but I don't think I have the 90 dialed in just right from a recent overhaul. It rapped up fine, but runs differently than my old 80. Hard to explain;the instant low-end response is off a bit. I've got a couple of other carbs for it....thinking I might rebuild one and see if there is any difference. No amount of tuning could seem to put it correct.

The 90 cuts great, but the two saws are identical internally except for more CC on the 90 and a slightly different carb intake. Puzzling to me.....the sound is way off too....like the 90 is more subdued. Oh and even though the 90 idles fine and flipping it horizontally in fine while using....if it's idling on the ground and I snatch it up quickly, the idle drops like it's going to die and then recovers. I've never had a saw do exactly that. Best description I can come up with is that in actual use;the 80 is a raw, 'wild thing' and the 90 is a old man driving a big Buick.

Kevin
 
I just finished an extensive job where I had to remove many trees(and buck down to firewood size)-mostly locusts. I took three saws; the Jonny 80 and 90 and the Husky 2100. The saws all ran fine....but I don't think I have the 90 dialed in just right from a recent overhaul. It rapped up fine, but runs differently than my old 80. Hard to explain;the instant low-end response is off a bit. I've got a couple of other carbs for it....thinking I might rebuild one and see if there is any difference. No amount of tuning could seem to put it correct.

The 90 cuts great, but the two saws are identical internally except for more CC on the 90 and a slightly different carb intake. Puzzling to me.....the sound is way off too....like the 90 is more subdued. Oh and even though the 90 idles fine and flipping it horizontally in fine while using....if it's idling on the ground and I snatch it up quickly, the idle drops like it's going to die and then recovers. I've never had a saw do exactly that. Best description I can come up with is that in actual use;the 80 is a raw, 'wild thing' and the 90 is a old man driving a big Buick.

Kevin

Did you do the points during the recent overhaul?? Point dwell angle has a 1:1 ratio with ign timing ....1 degree of dwell is equal to one degee of timing.....if your points are set to close it will retard your timing and will allow the saw to start easy but run out kinda flat. If you did the points and they are clean and set correctly you can advance your timing a few degrees and see if it makes a difference.
Another thing to check is your decomp valve, it may not be sealing well....check for fresh black snot at the bottom of the valve where it exhausts out between the fins....if it's wet that may also be a problem..
 
Did you do the points during the recent overhaul?? Point dwell angle has a 1:1 ratio with ign timing ....1 degree of dwell is equal to one degee of timing.....if your points are set to close it will retard your timing and will allow the saw to start easy but run out kinda flat. If you did the points and they are clean and set correctly you can advance your timing a few degrees and see if it makes a difference.
Another thing to check is your decomp valve, it may not be sealing well....check for fresh black snot at the bottom of the valve where it exhausts out between the fins....if it's wet that may also be a problem..

Thanks....good suggestion on the points. I did clean the decomp previously and it's clean, shiny and sealing well. In my hurry to put the saw to work, I skipped the points parts.:dizzy: Some time ago I opened up my 80 and examined the points. After 15 yrs of service, they were perfect and dirt free. Pretty amazing and obviously durable. So off to the points!:msp_razz:

Other than altering the woodruff key, how would you advance a 89/90's timing? Or are you talking about playing around with the point gap?

Kevin
 
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Thanks....good suggestion on the points. I did clean the decomp previously and it's clean, shiny and sealing well. In my hurry to put the saw to work, I skipped the points parts.:dizzy: Some time ago I opened up my 80 and examined the points. After 15 yrs of service, they were perfect and dirt free. Pretty amazing and obviously durable. So off to the points!:msp_razz:

Other than altering the woodruff key, how would you advance a 89/90's timing? Or are you talking about playing around with the point gap?

Kevin

The timing is adjustable by rotating the entire points plate...the mounting screws are in elongated slots..counterclockwise is more advance.....clockwise is less advance or retarding. I have the 80 shop manual that tells how to set the timing with the use of dial indicator mounted in the sparkplug hole to determine the position of the piston...I forget the numbers in MM. The timing rarely goes awry in these unless someone has had it apart and lost the original setting...I always mark, with a scribe, the case and points plate before removal so I can put it back in the same place. Unless someone has mess with the setting it's probably the points.....they have a tendency to work together as the foot that rides the cam wears...you will see a small felt pad that rides the cam too.....this should get 1-2 drops of light oil as it lubes the cam and foot......just 1-2 drops don't go overboard as to much oil will cause problems.
 
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The timing is adjustable by rotating the entire points plate...the mounting screws are in elongated slots..counterclockwise is more advance.....clockwise is less advance or retarding. I have the 80 shop manual that tells how to set the timing with the use of dial indicator mounted in the sparkplug hole to determine the position of the piston...I forget the numbers in MM. The timing rarely goes awry in these unless someone has had it apart and lost the original setting...I always mark, with a scribe, the case and points plate before removal so I can put it back in the same place. Unless someone has mess with the setting it's probably the points.....they have a tendency to work together as the foot that rides the cam wears...you will see a small felt pad that rides the cam too.....this should get 1-2 drops of light oil as it lubes the cam and foot......just 1-2 drops don't go overboard as to much oil will cause problems.

Yeah, I remember the felt pad that rides the cam...in most 'good' point set-ups that was standard fare back in the day. I oiled the 80 when I was in there. I'd love to have a pdf of the 80 workshop manual. Is that available anywhere online? I think you're correct about this....I'm betting it's a points issue. Nice that the points plate rotates. I found all kinds of dumb things the PO did....hoping he left the points plate alone.:msp_mad:

*Update: found the manual with the usual dark, almost unrecognizable pics in pdf. I bought a manual like that for my Husky 2100 and the same dark pics. Basically they say to screw in a dial indicator into the spark plug hole, put a piece of thin paper between the points, rotate the crank counter-clockwise until the paper just releases. At this point the mag is firing and then zero your dial indicator, rotate back(I assume clockwise) until you hit TDC. If the plate is set properly, the dial indicator should be @2.7mm. Does this sound like as you read it as well?

Kevin
 
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Yeah, I remember the felt pad that rides the cam...in most 'good' point set-ups that was standard fare back in the day. I oiled the 80 when I was in there. I'd love to have a pdf of the 80 workshop manual. Is that available anywhere online? I think you're correct about this....I'm betting it's a points issue. Nice that the points plate rotates. I found all kinds of dumb things the PO did....hoping he left the points plate alone.:msp_mad:

*Update: found the manual with the usual dark, almost unrecognizable pics in pdf. I bought a manual like that for my Husky 2100 and the same dark pics. Basically they say to screw in a dial indicator into the spark plug hole, put a piece of thin paper between the points, rotate the crank counter-clockwise until the paper just releases. At this point the mag is firing and then zero your dial indicator, rotate back(I assume clockwise) until you hit TDC. If the plate is set properly, the dial indicator should be @2.7mm. Does this sound like as you read it as well?

Kevin

I think so...been quite a while since I read it....I will look when I get back to the shop. Never had to do it and don't have a dial indicator setup that will screw into the plug hole either..
 
I think so...been quite a while since I read it....I will look when I get back to the shop. Never had to do it and don't have a dial indicator setup that will screw into the plug hole either..

Appreciate it, when you have time to confirm it. Like you said though, if the PO owner hasn't jacked with the points base, it's probably just a simple points gap adjustment. I have the spark plug hole dial indicator from setting up race cars a million yrs ago.

Kevin
 
Needing some help,looking for a 2086 crankcase with a good crank. I have most every thing to build this saw except the crankcase. Any help in locating one would be greatly appreciated. I'm replacing some orange saws with red and black,they just look better to me.
 
Inside the 2245

I'm not a fan of plastic clamshells, but my dealer had a good price on this saw and I needed a small woodcutter to thrash.

The 2245 is 46cc, strato, and has a wide open muffler with no cat. No need for a muffler mod, there is nothing to drill or cut. Carb screws are the spline style without limiters, so you can get the spline tool or just take a dremel and cut slots in the heads so you can use a screwdriver. Right out of the box the H needle was set at 3/4 and the spark plug was white from the factory run-in. Way too lean.

It's rev-limited at about 13,200 but runs great at 12,700-12,800 and there is no need to go higher. The strato butterfly opens up after the throttle plate is already cracked open, so response is very good with no flat spot off of idle. Good air filter system- after cutting a cord of alder there was nothing in the air box except some fine dust. Oiler is adequate for a 18" bar.

Overall this seems to be a great little saw, and we'll see how it holds up after a few hundred hours.
 

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