Jonsered Chainsaws

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Thanks for the tip. I'm done, hopefully the seller has heard and as much as I'd like to broadcast his deed to the world, he's not worth it or the time.

On a more positive note, got the Arkansas 90 running yesterday. All I can say is NICE! Gotta find a bar for it now....the last bar I got @Baileys for my 80 had to be modified to fit the bar studs. I don't wanna go through that again...

Kevin

When I got my 32" from Bailey's, I just ground out the slot about 1mm with a 5 1/4" grinder and worked great. D009 is not produced anymore, if I remember correctly.
 
When I got my 32" from Bailey's, I just ground out the slot about 1mm with a 5 1/4" grinder and worked great. D009 is not produced anymore, if I remember correctly.

D009 (with the 9mm slot) is the current large frame Husky/JRed/Dolmar mount bar and is still produced. The D024 10mm slot Jonsereds mount is no longer produced. You can modify a D096/D196 Homelite XL-series mount 9.5mm slot bar (still produced up to 28" by Oregon, and longer used and NOS bars are on feebay) on a Jonsereds with a little filing. Same with a D007 Pioneer mount bar. A D009 can also be used, but just takes more filing of the slot. Sometimes a little modification of the adjuster and/or oiler holes is needed for everything to line up right.

Bar Mount Pattern: 18
 
D009 (with the 9mm slot) is the current large frame Husky/JRed/Dolmar mount bar and is still produced. The D024 10mm slot Jonsereds mount is no longer produced. You can modify a D096/D196 Homelite XL-series mount 9.5mm slot bar (still produced up to 28" by Oregon, and longer used and NOS bars are on feebay) on a Jonsereds with a little filing. Same with a D007 Pioneer mount bar. A D009 can also be used, but just takes more filing of the slot. Sometimes a little modification of the adjuster and/or oiler holes is needed for everything to line up right.

Bar Mount Pattern: 18

I was close, anyway.....:frown:
 
D009 (with the 9mm slot) is the current large frame Husky/JRed/Dolmar mount bar and is still produced. The D024 10mm slot Jonsereds mount is no longer produced. You can modify a D096/D196 Homelite XL-series mount 9.5mm slot bar (still produced up to 28" by Oregon, and longer used and NOS bars are on feebay) on a Jonsereds with a little filing. Same with a D007 Pioneer mount bar. A D009 can also be used, but just takes more filing of the slot. Sometimes a little modification of the adjuster and/or oiler holes is needed for everything to line up right.

Bar Mount Pattern: 18

Thanks for the info. I might have another way to go; the original 30" bar I took off the 80 was one I bought when I was still loggin' in the late 70's. It's an old Oregon bar with those funky replaceable tips they only did for a few yrs. Not knowing that, I ripped out the old tip(destroyed) and just ordered a new one from Baileys. It was the wrong style of course and I was told they don't make that tip anymore.

So I guess what I need is an NOS replaceable tip for that old bar. Is that doable or unobtainium? That's the minimum size I want on that saw....don't want a 28" or smaller. Would rather have a 32", 34" if I had the choice.

Kevin
 
When I got my 32" from Bailey's, I just ground out the slot about 1mm with a 5 1/4" grinder and worked great. D009 is not produced anymore, if I remember correctly.

Yeah, that slot for the bar studs was the easy part. But where Baileys' screwed up was in the gauge. He sold me .404 chisel chain and it wouldn't fit into the bar. I don't know how many little bits I broke going around that whole bar to make the bar rail groove correct. I'm never doing that again and it's ridiculous to take to a machine shop and pay another $35 for them to do it.

Kevin
 
Thanks for the info. I might have another way to go; the original 30" bar I took off the 80 was one I bought when I was still loggin' in the late 70's. It's an old Oregon bar with those funky replaceable tips they only did for a few yrs. Not knowing that, I ripped out the old tip(destroyed) and just ordered a new one from Baileys. It was the wrong style of course and I was told they don't make that tip anymore.

So I guess what I need is an NOS replaceable tip for that old bar. Is that doable or unobtainium? That's the minimum size I want on that saw....don't want a 28" or smaller. Would rather have a 32", 34" if I had the choice.

Kevin

The old 'three rivet' Oregon tips still pop up on feebay (NOS) sometimes
 
The old 'three rivet' Oregon tips still pop up on feebay (NOS) sometimes

OK then, thanks....just have to start the hunt. That would be the easiest route for me, but it won't give me the exact length I want. 30" is OK though unless I can find a vintage bar with the NO 18 pattern in 32" or 34'.

I saw nothing on the bay at present except a 70E for sale with a D024 32" Oregon bar on it. I could contact the buyer after the saw is sold, but I think ebay protects buyers now from contact like that?

Kevin
 
OK then, thanks....just have to start the hunt. That would be the easiest route for me, but it won't give me the exact length I want. 30" is OK though unless I can find a vintage bar with the NO 18 pattern in 32" or 34'.

I saw nothing on the bay at present except a 70E for sale with a D024 32" Oregon bar on it. I could contact the buyer after the saw is sold, but I think ebay protects buyers now from contact like that?

Kevin

I've seen a few NOS Homelite and Poulan branded D096/D196 and D007 mount 32" B/C's on feebay recently. Just would have to open up the slot .5mm or so...
 
Both .404 and 3/8 pitch. Which do you want to run?

404, always.

I finally got the right fields put in and a decent place on the bay for bars-a hundred or so 32" bars. Most are for 3/8 chain, but a few aren't. The ones that aren't are for Stihl saws it seems. So for the least modification, what prefix for Oregon, Poulan, Cannon bars etc?

Kevin
 
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404, always.

I finally got the right fields put in and a decent place on the bay for bars-a hundred or so 32" bars. Most are for 3/8 chain, but a few aren't. The ones that aren't are for Stihl saws it seems. So for the least modification, what prefix for Oregon, Poulan, Cannon bars etc?

Kevin

Oregon D096/D196 and Windsor UXL bars will work with a small amount of filing of the slot (from 9.5mm to 10mm). Same with D007 Pioneer mount bars. Will send you a PM with a couple links...
 
Clutch drums

Wow...been looking all over the Net for a .404 pitch drum and .404 seven tooth sprocket set up.:( I can find the sprockets, but not the drum. This will force me to take that set-up off my 80 and use it on the 90. I was hoping to use both saws side-by-side. So much for that idea.:tongue2:

And then when I was amassing Jonny parts, I got some NOS clutch shoes for the 80/90. Great, but somehow I bought three instead of the needed four. Wasn't thinking that one through.:msp_rolleyes: I've got plenty of used ones, but I'm not mixing and matching clutch parts. And so it goes....I wished I could remember who I bought those NOS clutch shoes from!

Kevin

*Update; found the clutch drum and some more drum sprockets-.404 7 tooth. Scott at www.chainsawr.com came through. I've bought tons of Husky and Jonsered parts from him in the past. His stock is dwindling though, for the older saws like the Husky 2100 and the Jonny 80/90. I have to wait forever because they come from VT. I've never really connected with anyone parts-wise in the PNW....I know they have to be out there. It takes a special owner though, because most of the small saw shops that are left are supplying loggers and wood hackers with modern saws/parts. I don't see any folks working these older saws around here like I still am.

Kevin
 
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630 Super II- silver tag?

Looking at this 630 that the seller says is a Super II, and it has the decals, but the serial tag is silver which doesn't make sense. The black serial tags started around 1988 way before the Super II came out. Also appears to be the old style case.

Am I missing something?
 
Looking at this 630 that the seller says is a Super II, and it has the decals, but the serial tag is silver which doesn't make sense. The black serial tags started around 1988 way before the Super II came out. Also appears to be the old style case.

Am I missing something?

Nope you are correct......that is simply an older 630 with a Super II recoil cover. Here's a little trick I use when trying to identify the older from the newer (2 piece ign VS. 1 piece) Look at the position of the front top cover screw.....if it is forward of the upper left hand recoil screw it is the older one.....if it is aft of the same recoil screw it's the newer type......recoils didn't change (except the stickers) but the case half and top cover did. That's the way I always figure it out just from pics....
 
Nope you are correct......that is simply an older 630 with a Super II recoil cover. Here's a little trick I use when trying to identify the older from the newer (2 piece ign VS. 1 piece) Look at the position of the front top cover screw.....if it is forward of the upper left hand recoil screw it is the older one.....if it is aft of the same recoil screw it's the newer type......recoils didn't change (except the stickers) but the case half and top cover did. That's the way I always figure it out just from pics....

I second that :)
 
Update on the drum from Scott at Chainsawr World's largest inventory of Chainsaw Parts It doesn't have the slight dome like the OE Jonny drum. Which means that the drum doesn't quite come even with the top of the inner drum bearing. Scott thinks it will be OK, but I'm not sure. I suppose I could shim the drum inside at the bottom with some kind of friction washer, but not sure the shoes will contact exactly where they are supposed to? Don't like 'rigging' stuff like that for field work...even if it is an old saw. I'll post some pics and maybe you can see what I'm talking about.

Kevin

View attachment 293788View attachment 293789View attachment 293790
 
Update on the drum from Scott at Chainsawr World's largest inventory of Chainsaw Parts It doesn't have the slight dome like the OE Jonny drum. Which means that the drum doesn't quite come even with the top of the inner drum bearing. Scott thinks it will be OK, but I'm not sure. I suppose I could shim the drum inside at the bottom with some kind of friction washer, but not sure the shoes will contact exactly where they are supposed to? Don't like 'rigging' stuff like that for field work...even if it is an old saw. I'll post some pics and maybe you can see what I'm talking about.

Kevin

View attachment 293788View attachment 293789View attachment 293790

Kevin I think you'll find that whatever discrepancy there is will be with the range of sideplay of the rimdrive on the spline...as long as the chain and rim are running free between the drum and outside washer/nut you're all set...whether or not it is actually centered on the spline..
 

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