Jonsered Chainsaws

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I believe I found one for him just gotta get to the post office. Out of curiosity what's the overall length of the spring you have cant dog?

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I believe I found one for him just gotta get to the post office. Out of curiosity what's the overall length of the spring you have cant dog?

Sent from my N9100 using Tapatalk 2
Gee..... I don't know Raket....it's used and still on the saw...I usually replace the whole clutch if possible.....you know how hard those puppies are to install without getting a kink!!! If you have a NOS one that would be the way to go..
 
I believe its for an 80 I put it next to the clutch and seems a tad short but figured that would be the stretch. And I'll agree on clutch springs being a pain!

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Those carb/manifold gaskets that come in the kit will work on most any saw that the impulse hole in the carb lines up directly with the impulse hole in the manifold......the old Jonsereds don't ...the hole in the manifold is 10-15 degrees off from the hole in the carb and they have a crazy "S" shaped impulse corridor cut into the face of the manifold. This has to be completely covered by the gasket as the gasket itself becomes part of the impulse corridor. I think the Swede that designed the Jonsereds intakes was on drugs all through the 70's!! I meen look at the manifold on a 49sp.........it has 7 screws to hold it onto the cyl......the mighty 111S has but two???? As for carb/manifold gaskets for the you can make them or purchase them from any Husky dealer...ask for this gasket to fit a 61, 266, 268,272 or also for the 630 Jonsered...

That's great to know, thanks! I make a lot of gaskets for machinery, but the smaller ones are very hard to get the holes right. For everyone I make, I screw one up...not really a good success ratio. I suggest purchasing them instead.

Kevin
 
Robin, are you sure that's the right gasket on the Husky 272 and the Jonny 630 carb kit? I've been looking at the kits online and they all seem to have that smaller, diamond shaped gasket. Of course I can't tell for sure unless I have one in my hand. I'd feel more confident buying the one like I posted...just can't find it anymore.:confused:

Kevin
 
Finally saw my first line of Jonsered's today at TSC, I had never seen them before.

I was in for a replacement hydro line for the splitter so I didn't have time to doddle, I did however say to myself in my best "Thurston Powell" (from Gilligan's Island)... " I see, merely a gentleman's Husky.."

Sharp looking saws though, plenty of machismo..
 
Finally saw my first line of Jonsered's today at TSC, I had never seen them before.

I was in for a replacement hydro line for the splitter so I didn't have time to doddle, I did however say to myself in my best "Thurston Powell" (from Gilligan's Island)... " I see, merely a gentleman's Husky.."

Sharp looking saws though, plenty of machismo..

Well, I was dyed-in-the-wool Husky until I bought an 80 as a back-up saw loggin'. I like knowing the two saws;their differences, their similarities. All that's changed now with different ownership and the use of plastics instead of magnesium and EPA compliance. They were just starting to talk about fallers carrying some kind of fire extinguisher in the woods. along with all the rest of our crap, when I quit. And now we talk about 'Muscle saws' like around 6 cu in or larger. We never thought of it like that back then....you set up the big saw with a long bar when in big timber and dealt with the compression & weight. And if you complained, you were run off the job site. Like me the older, bigger Jonny saws.:cool: Is there really any difference now between Husky and Jonny?

Kevin
 
Well, I was dyed-in-the-wool Husky until I bought an 80 as a back-up saw loggin'. I like knowing the two saws;their differences, their similarities. All that's changed now with different ownership and the use of plastics instead of magnesium and EPA compliance. They were just starting to talk about fallers carrying some kind of fire extinguisher in the woods. along with all the rest of our crap, when I quit. And now we talk about 'Muscle saws' like around 6 cu in or larger. We never thought of it like that back then....you set up the big saw with a long bar when in big timber and dealt with the compression & weight. And if you complained, you were run off the job site. Like me the older, bigger Jonny saws.:cool: Is there really any difference now between Husky and Jonny?

Kevin

Pulling over an 80 will make a man out of anyone. And sadly the only difference now is paint and plastics.

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Robin, are you sure that's the right gasket on the Husky 272 and the Jonny 630 carb kit? I've been looking at the kits online and they all seem to have that smaller, diamond shaped gasket. Of course I can't tell for sure unless I have one in my hand. I'd feel more confident buying the one like I posted...just can't find it anymore.:confused:

Kevin
You have to get an OEM gasket from Husky dealer ...it will probably look just like the one you posted....not sure if you can get it in a kit...I know even yrs ago when I used to buy kits from the Jonsereds dealer they came with the diamond gasket.....the original Jonsereds gaskets were made of thin brown paper......maybe .007" thick...same as the original cyl base gaskets.....as far as cutting your own, here's a couple tricks that might help you....first you can use the diamond gasket as a template for everything, just leave extra some extra meat on the outside on one side to cover the impulse corridor. But here is another trick that works for me. I work on the 49sp, 52,52E, 521E series a lot and need a good number of cyl base gaskets and carb gaskets so I laid out a grid on 2 pcs. of 8 1/2 X 11 white paper, giving 9 equal rectangles. Then with one sheet placed in the printer and the other placed in the scanner, I took a NOS cyl base gasket and a NOS carb gasket and placed them in one rectangle in the scanner. I placed the carb gasket in the center of cyl base gasket (the part that would get cut out)...print...replace the copy in the printer...move the gaskets to the next rectangle...print....repeat until this operation until you have 9 sets of gaskets.....this is your permanent template.....now take a piece of 1/32" gasket material (mine from NAPA) cut it into an 8 1/2 X 11 sheet, place it in the printer so the blank side gets printed and a simply scan from your template and print......I do the same thing when I get a NOS case gasket...make a permanent template so I can replicate when needed.....as far as cutting...... a pair of sharp scissors, a sharp Exacto knife and a star type leather punch pliers make the whole process pretty easy. Hope this is helpful..
 
OH!!!.... and one other thing...when cutting any gaskets, if you can, always cut the holes first...then cut the inside...leather punch is good for small dia. inside corners....Exacto knife in the rest of the inside. You may have to rough cut the outside a bit over size to reach the holes....then cut the outside to the line with scissors. This will virtually eliminate the usual breakage around holes encountered when cutting gaskets.
 
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You have to get an OEM gasket from Husky dealer ...it will probably look just like the one you posted....not sure if you can get it in a kit...I know even yrs ago when I used to buy kits from the Jonsereds dealer they came with the diamond gasket.....the original Jonsereds gaskets were made of thin brown paper......maybe .007" thick...same as the original cyl base gaskets.....as far as cutting your own, here's a couple tricks that might help you....first you can use the diamond gasket as a template for everything, just leave extra some extra meat on the outside on one side to cover the impulse corridor. But here is another trick that works for me. I work on the 49sp, 52,52E, 521E series a lot and need a good number of cyl base gaskets and carb gaskets so I laid out a grid on 2 pcs. of 8 1/2 X 11 white paper, giving 9 equal rectangles. Then with one sheet placed in the printer and the other placed in the scanner, I took a NOS cyl base gasket and a NOS carb gasket and placed them in one rectangle in the scanner. I placed the carb gasket in the center of cyl base gasket (the part that would get cut out)...print...replace the copy in the printer...move the gaskets to the next rectangle...print....repeat until this operation until you have 9 sets of gaskets.....this is your permanent template.....now take a piece of 1/32" gasket material (mine from NAPA) cut it into an 8 1/2 X 11 sheet, place it in the printer so the blank side gets printed and a simply scan from your template and print......I do the same thing when I get a NOS case gasket...make a permanent template so I can replicate when needed.....as far as cutting...... a pair of sharp scissors, a sharp Exacto knife and a star type leather punch pliers make the whole process pretty easy. Hope this is helpful..

It's not the cutting part...been doing this for a lifetime...it's getting the holes exactly where they should be. I actually have a little gizmo that cuts perfect holes-they just have to be say larger than a dime. I don't quite understand your printer/scanner method, but it HAS given me some ideas on exact transfer using a printer instead of tracing. It's the tracing part that throws some of the gaskets off. They seem identical until I cut them out and then one of the little holes is off center etc.

We do have a Husky dealer in town...I'll see if they can order me just the gasket and report back.

Kevin
 
It's not the cutting part...been doing this for a lifetime...it's getting the holes exactly where they should be. I actually have a little gizmo that cuts perfect holes-they just have to be say larger than a dime. I don't quite understand your printer/scanner method, but it HAS given me some ideas on exact transfer using a printer instead of tracing. It's the tracing part that throws some of the gaskets off. They seem identical until I cut them out and then one of the little holes is off center etc.

We do have a Husky dealer in town...I'll see if they can order me just the gasket and report back.

Kevin

My wife bought me a gasket punch set for Christmas last year. (Who said they can't get their men romantic gifts?)
I usually punch the center hole out first. This is where the Tillotson gaskets are good... I lay one over the center hole and use that as a template to punch the holes for the carb hold down screws.
If I don't have an old gasket for the impulse hole location and it's different than the Tillotson gasket I lay the gasket on the carb and locate it with the bolts and lightly tap the impulse hole location with a small ball peen hammer to mark the gasket and them punch it out with a leather punch.
The last thing I do is cut the perimeter shape by tracing around the carb.

With respect to the scanner; I have a flatbed scanner. Just lay the old gasket on the scanner and scan as a pdf file at 100%. You can then print that on whatever your printer will handle.
 
My wife bought me a gasket punch set for Christmas last year. (Who said they can't get their men romantic gifts?)
I usually punch the center hole out first. This is where the Tillotson gaskets are good... I lay one over the center hole and use that as a template to punch the holes for the carb hold down screws.
If I don't have an old gasket for the impulse hole location and it's different than the Tillotson gasket I lay the gasket on the carb and locate it with the bolts and lightly tap the impulse hole location with a small ball peen hammer to mark the gasket and them punch it out with a leather punch.
The last thing I do is cut the perimeter shape by tracing around the carb.

With respect to the scanner; I have a flatbed scanner. Just lay the old gasket on the scanner and scan as a pdf file at 100%. You can then print that on whatever your printer will handle.

Thanks Tim...I'm gonna play around with the printer this weekend and see if I can make my success ratio better on these carb gaskets. It's always the impulse hole that's a wee bit off. I have an office printer, but it's pretty much Greek to me without some help...especially the part about putting the gasket material in it and having it print the gasket onto it. I've seen people put envelopes in and the like....so I know what you guys are saying...just a little shaky on making it work for me.

Kevin
 
Yeah I'm sure not all printers can handle 1/32" gasket paper......mine seems to do it fine.....printing nine cyl base gaskets with a carb gasket centered in the bore portion of each, sure uses a lot of black ink. But as I said I use a lot of these gaskets....like 20-30 a year.....and this is the most fastest and most accurate method I've found......also very little waste of gasket material this way plus I always keep the made up templates in a folder in the office file cabinet......if I need a case gasket ...say for a 70E...the template is already there... just scan and print.. I have templates made up for most of the gaskets used in all the older Jonsereds that are now NLA.
 
Exxcellent Niko.......they kinda have a bad rap.....compared to the 70E (same saw.same weight.....less power) but I believe they are built on the 621 model...with "E" ign.....never used one...but have two here that are worthy of restoration.....bought both as 70Es!!!!! I believe they are real stout saws...even if not as fast as the 70E.....
 
Is the 2153 still a current model. will they order me one at t.s. or is there a interweb site to ord. one thanks guys
 
Exxcellent Niko.......they kinda have a bad rap.....compared to the 70E (same saw.same weight.....less power) but I believe they are built on the 621 model...with "E" ign.....never used one...but have two here that are worthy of restoration.....bought both as 70Es!!!!! I believe they are real stout saws...even if not as fast as the 70E.....

:confused: Sorry my friend, but I don't really understand what you mean by that - the 66E is 61cc, while the 621 is 56cc.
 

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