Jonsered Chainsaws

Rugged made
Wesspur
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Real1shepherd said:
Man....you got it bad, for sure!:p I'm at a point & age where collecting stuff has to have its limits. My youngest son says I'm a 'horder'. To me a 'horder' is somebody with paths through the junk in their house or garage...I'm a long way from that. If I collect something, I think three is ideal...so three 80's, three 90's and three Husky 2100's....and then I'm done. :rolleyes: Well, maybe.....:confused:

Kevin
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Strange.
That is the number I have for smaller saws.
But I'm stuck an more models. :)
 
Well.......better than some other collections.....a useful collection perhaps.....at least I can cut my own firewood without the excuse "My saw broke" or "My chain is dull". Now if I collected postage stamps....no matter how many I had...still couldn't mail a letter....you know...to paypal....LOL!!!!!
 
Cantdog said:
Well.......better than some other collections.....a useful collection perhaps.....at least I can cut my own firewood without the excuse "My saw broke" or "My chain is dull". Now if I collected postage stamps....no matter how many I had...still couldn't mail a letter....you know...to paypal....LOL!!!!!
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I wish I had a real nice stamp collection ........

Then I could sell it and buy saw stuff. And stuff
 
Robin, that 625 looks clean enouigh to be well worth the price, & you got free shipping :clap:. Heck, the clutch cover & AF cover are worth at least 1/3 maybe 1/2 of the final price. I had a stuck piston 625 that came in package deal, a little Kroil and few hours in the south central Texas sunshine cured it.
 
Chris J. said:
Robin, that 625 looks clean enouigh to be well worth the price, & you got free shipping :clap:. Heck, the clutch cover & AF cover are worth at least 1/3 maybe 1/2 of the final price. I had a stuck piston 625 that came in package deal, a little Kroil and few hours in the south central Texas sunshine cured it.
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Yeah.....it did "look" good.....not much paint missing...nice plastic...air filter cover alum hold down screws .that's usually what I am looking for.....I've got all the mechanical stuff fix or enhance it.......but it's very hard to make a saw look good once it's been beat/neglected no matter how it runs or how hot it is. It's on it's way......we'll see what's up with it. I got a 521E off ebay that was stuck real cheap.......took the recoil off.....spun right over with great compression....recoil pulley was frozen on the shaft....fixed that and pulled the muffler....looked great.....was cutting wood with it in 45 mins......not to say that is the case here!!! Worth a shot!!
 
I don't know if any of ya saw that non-running 90 that just went through ebay. I won it! Given that crappy 80 that went through for over $300 and the seller who tried to torpedo me here about it, I didn't think I had a chance.:confused:

I blame Robin and his 50+ red saws...:rolleyes: If it has compression like he says it does, I'll probably try to make a runner out of it.....although it may take a lot of my spare parts to make it whole again. I would just hate to part out a internally sound 90..:cool:

Kevin
 
Real1shepherd said:
I don't know if any of ya saw that non-running 90 that just went through ebay. I won it! Given that crappy 80 that went through for over $300 and the seller who tried to torpedo me here about it, I didn't think I had a chance.:confused:

I blame Robin and his 50+ red saws...:rolleyes: If it has compression like he says it does, I'll probably try to make a runner out of it.....although it may take a lot of my spare parts to make it whole again. I would just hate to part out a internally sound 90..:cool:

Kevin
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If it doesn't work out you could always rattle can it and resell on e-bay :laugh::dizzy:
 
Cantdog said:
Good luck with that 90.....I watched that but I have 2-3 90s here that all need attention.....gotta get some done and running before getting more of the same....well........unless a really, really, really good deal comes alo
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Thanks...I'm trying to avoid splitting a case open just yet. I think most saws have plenty of life in them yet, unless the PO used the wrong/cheap gas mix. These old saws were pretty hard to ruin by the occasional wood cutter. Commercially used saws are another matter.:rolleyes:

Kevin
 
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Hi all.
Newbie to this forum, there is so much to learn here! I have a couple of questions. First, can I fit a 920 or 930 handle assembly to my 910E that has a broken top handle? And, second question, what or how on earth do you decipher those "ruler" markings on the bottom of my 2050 clutch cover?
Thanks in advance!




/
 
Fishnuts2 said:
Hi all.
Newbie to this forum, there is so much to learn here! I have a couple of questions. First, can I fit a 920 or 930 handle assembly to my 910E that has a broken top handle? And, second question, what or how on earth do you decipher those "ruler" markings on the bottom of my 2050 clutch cover?
Thanks in advance!




/
Click to expand...
Welcome to the site. The answer to your question is ......No.......though the 920 and 930 do follow the 910E production wise, both handles, AV mounts and entire PTO side case halves are altogether different and do not interchange. Now the flywheel side case halves and recoil are the same...or at least similar enough the swap. Can't help with the 2050 markings...probably metric measurements for fitting firewood to certain sizes. (Just a guess)LOL!!!
 
Real1shepherd said:
Illuminate me on this:http://www.ebay.com/itm/Jonsered-67...949964863?pt=US_Chainsaws&hash=item4d0e27b43f
Would a 66cc saw really bring $1,400...(albeit one that has never had gas through it)?:eek: And what's he talking about..."elite" model....where is the designation and what does it really mean?'

Kevin
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I saw that one too. Im redoing a used and abused 670 i bought for 53$. It had the wrong(stihl) bar and chain but theyre brand new and currently on my ms390. It has a husq clutch cover and a jbweld repair to the gas tank but otherwise running and complete. It would rev up whenevee it was running so i took it apart and found a tear in the intake boot. It has a full wrap bar and looks well maintained albeit well used. I had picked up the ms390 without a bar and chain so i figure the stihl chain and rolomatic bar(both new) were worth my 53$ right there. But im currently looking for [money for] a loaded 670 clutch cover with chainbrake handle, and an intake boot. I figure after i buy the boot and a bar/chain for it, ill just crack the back half of the husky cover off and give it a good polishing either intil i find a good deal on one, or i sell the saw. How much do you think a good running but not perfect 670 would be worth? With the correct clutch cover or the improvised one. I was thinking itd probably be worth 200 to 250
 
Patentpending said:
I saw that one too. Im redoing a used and abused 670 i bought for 53$. It had the wrong(stihl) bar and chain but theyre brand new and currently on my ms390. It has a husq clutch cover and a jbweld repair to the gas tank but otherwise running and complete. It would rev up whenevee it was running so i took it apart and found a tear in the intake boot. It has a full wrap bar and looks well maintained albeit well used. I had picked up the ms390 without a bar and chain so i figure the stihl chain and rolomatic bar(both new) were worth my 53$ right there. But im currently looking for [money for] a loaded 670 clutch cover with chainbrake handle, and an intake boot. I figure after i buy the boot and a bar/chain for it, ill just crack the back half of the husky cover off and give it a good polishing either intil i find a good deal on one, or i sell the saw. How much do you think a good running but not perfect 670 would be worth? With the correct clutch cover or the improvised one. I was thinking itd probably be worth 200 to 250
Click to expand...

Going by recent trends...prolly as much as $300 or more on ebay with the correct clutch cover. Usually a cracked boot or impulse line is the cause of your symptoms....good call. I need to stay off of ebay for my complete saws search and just buy parts there. It's getting to be silly on prices for old saws that still need tons of work. Still some deals out there, but they are disguised by dirt and/or poor description wording and even then, a gamble. You might be able to do well just on the powerhead....I see this as a trend. Not always does a bar/chain add to the sale unless in great shape. Mostly I tell them to keep the bar & chain if well worn....I can't use them and don't like passing on junk. People buying collectable saws usually have a plethora of bars/chains, anyway. If you're gonna sell it with a newer bar & chain...make sure you can get you're money back on that as a complete package, or don't bother with the bar & chain.

You could guarantee top money on your auction if you link to youtube showing the saw for sale actually cutting through a log.


Kevin
 
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All great advice! I like to run everything through some wood, ill probably just hold out for a good deal on a husky with bar and chain for around the same price. Take some stuff off it, see how great it could be, and fix that too. Thus is the cycle of CAD
 

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