Jonsered Chainsaws

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
This one
gu2unaga.jpg


Sent from my N9100 using Tapatalk


HOOYEAH!!!! A few yrs back, when I first started hanging out here and watching ebay for saws, There was an extreamly done up 111S on ebay......apparently built by a very famous race saw builder.....beautiful rig..piped with lots of braided stainless hoses with anodized fittings, cyl cut and fitted with a removable custom made head.....big old carb and V stack sticking up out the back.....very sharp looking....the thing went for $850....said he had like $5800 in it.......I was out of work and poorer than dirt, scrounging 49sp parts saws to fix the other junkers I had......just to stay busy....I'd had it if I had the coin.....Seen stockers go for nearly that much on ebay since.......
 
HOOYEAH!!!! A few yrs back, when I first started hanging out here and watching ebay for saws, There was an extreamly done up 111S on ebay......apparently built by a very famous race saw builder.....beautiful rig..piped with lots of braided stainless hoses with anodized fittings, cyl cut and fitted with a removable custom made head.....big old carb and V stack sticking up out the back.....very sharp looking....the thing went for $850....said he had like $5800 in it.......I was out of work and poorer than dirt, scrounging 49sp parts saws to fix the other junkers I had......just to stay busy....I'd had it if I had the coin.....Seen stockers go for nearly that much on ebay since.......

$850 for a saw you have $5,800 in....now there's an investment.o_O

Kevin
 
Does anyone have any knowledge of that black, vinyl coating stuff on handle bars? Does it come in lengths and applies like like heat-shrink? I read something about this a few yrs ago, but can't find it now. I was thinking about that Rhino truck bed liner stuff if nothing else....

Kevin

Unc..(Stihl 041S) sent me some lengths of 3/4" heat shrink tubing for this.....I haven't tried it yet. It isn't as thick or ribbed like OEM. I remember Brad Snelling using something more OEM like but having a hard time getting it all the way on the handle.......threads may still be around... Might drop Unc a PM on here...I'm sure he'd help if he could.
 
LOL....I'm not really interested in heavily modified saws for competition...just work saws, or potential work saws. Modified motorcycles or hot Mopar iron, hell yeah!

That's one crazy lookin' saw, for sure....

Kevin
Kevin, the same guy has a minty 111s, he and his buddy have a small enclosed trailer with Jonsered painted in big letters on the sides. They bring it to the GTG's full of old iron.
 
Unc..(Stihl 041S) sent me some lengths of 3/4" heat shrink tubing for this.....I haven't tried it yet. It isn't as thick or ribbed like OEM. I remember Brad Snelling using something more OEM like but having a hard time getting it all the way on the handle.......threads may still be around... Might drop Unc a PM on here...I'm sure he'd help if he could.

I think I'd use the truck liner stuff if I couldn't find the ribbed OE stuff. Commercial heat shrink per say, is easy to find on the Net....but I haven't seen the ribbed stuff for anything like consumer, sane prices. I do remember a thread about it and a 'trick' to getting the stuff on....but I lost all that over time.

Kevin
 
Kevin,
The trick was using Stihl handle bar material (might be ribbed?) and plugging one end with a stopper with an compressed air fitting, starting the rubber tube on the handlebar and then putting the air to it to keep it expanded. Apparently, it works well but I've never tried it.
 
Kevin,
The trick was using Stihl handle bar material (might be ribbed?) and plugging one end with a stopper with an compressed air fitting, starting the rubber tube on the handlebar and then putting the air to it to keep it expanded. Apparently, it works well but I've never tried it.

Tim,
Do you know if the bar material is adhesive activated with heat, or just reg ribbed heat shrink that's solvent resistant.? That would make a big instal difference I suspect. You'd want adhesive based material that would hold up against gas/oil/solvents. I see this stuff on the Net for like $200...minimum commercial order etc. I don't know how standardized handle bars are in OD...or if they are at all.

I'm guessing if Stihl offers the material, it must be pretty decent?

Kevin
 
Kevin,
The trick was using Stihl handle bar material (might be ribbed?) and plugging one end with a stopper with an compressed air fitting, starting the rubber tube on the handlebar and then putting the air to it to keep it expanded. Apparently, it works well but I've never tried it.
I think that another technique would be the same used in regripping golf clubs. You can slide a tight fitting grip over adhesive tape on the shaft IF you coat the inside of the grip and the tape with mineral spirits. The mineral spirits evaporate in 24 hrs. and the grip material is on tight. Works for motorcycle grips too. I wouldn't anticipate that the saw handle materials would be any different.

I do use the compressed air trick to get them off though.
 
I think that another technique would be the same used in regripping golf clubs. You can slide a tight fitting grip over adhesive tape on the shaft IF you coat the inside of the grip and the tape with mineral spirits. The mineral spirits evaporate in 24 hrs. and the grip material is on tight. Works for motorcycle grips too. I wouldn't anticipate that the saw handle materials would be any different.

I do use the compressed air trick to get them off though.

So are you using the Stihl grip material and is it ribbed?

Kevin
 
Thanks Jim....are you supposed to use a heat gun after you get the stuff on? Do you have an online source for the Stihl material?

Kevin
Kevin, I have never seen any need to use a heat gun. The only place I know to get it is at a Stihl dealer and I don't know if it's even still availiable as I haven't bought any for quite some time.
 
Tim,
Do you know if the bar material is adhesive activated with heat, or just reg ribbed heat shrink that's solvent resistant.? That would make a big instal difference I suspect. You'd want adhesive based material that would hold up against gas/oil/solvents. I see this stuff on the Net for like $200...minimum commercial order etc. I don't know how standardized handle bars are in OD...or if they are at all.

I'm guessing if Stihl offers the material, it must be pretty decent?

Kevin
I have no personal experience with it but I would guess the Stihl material would be quite good. You might try calling Madsen's to see what they know of.
As Jim said, no heat required. Some guys have tried shrink tubing with varied results as far as durability goes. Large shrink tubing is expensive though.
 
If you look on ebay for Stihl handle hose there are some vendors selling aftermarket heat shrink that claim it's really durable and "will outlast your saw"....right. Yeah it's spendy, but if it was like the OE stuff, it will outlast me I'm sure....I mean 30 something yrs on the OE right now and it just needs refreshed. The problem ordering through Stihl would be the ID size of the tubing....especially if it's not heat shrink and I suspect it's not. There is oil/gas resistant heat shrink tubing, ribbed, out there of the proper diameter. But the problem is the cost of the stuff and a minimum order. I was hoping some entrepreneur type was out there selling off a big roll. It's one of these deals where you know someone has it, but how do you hook up....

I'm also going to go out on a limb here and say the OD of the different manufacture's handles is most likely different as well.....? Which doesn't make any difference with heat shrink, but sure would with static hose that you'd have to force on with the above given methods.

Kevin
 

Latest posts

Back
Top