Jonsered Chainsaws

[WoodDean]

No not the stationary one....that is grounded......the contact on the bakerlite arm that rides the cam...should not be grounded until it closes and makes contact with the stationary one.....

I have SPARK!!!! A good strong looking spark. Swapped the condenser, so now I'm using the original dented one. I apparently got a bad one from NOS parts.
Pulled it over and I got a couple putts out of it but then it died. Then the NEW recoil spring broke.

 

[Real1shepherd]

I have SPARK!!!! A good strong looking spark. Swapped the condenser, so now I'm using the original dented one. I apparently got a bad one from NOS parts.
Pulled it over and I got a couple putts out of it but then it died. Then the NEW recoil spring broke.

Lol...face it Dean, the 90 hates you and wants to live here. There's a new OE condenser on ebay for $65...whoa...what a deal. Condensers are testable with analog equipment pretty easily. Sounds like your dented one is OK. Don't wind those recoil springs too tight...they just need to be tight enough to barely pull your handle back to its saddle.....not to snap back with a vengeance. You get them too tight and you can't really pull any length out either...bad juju.

Kevin

 

[Real1shepherd]

Here are two ways to test condensers;

The proper way to test condensers/ capacitors is with a capacitance meter. You can type in the words capacitance meter in either YAHOO, or GOOGLE, and several companies that make and sell them should show up.
A capacitance meter measures mfd micro ferads. The mfd's are the ability to store energy until it is released. Simply having a condensor that is'nt shorted out is not enough.... To high of a capacitance will cause one side of your points to pit, and the other side to peak up whereas the points don't get a good flat contact. to low of a capacitance causes the same effect in the opposite surfaces. You can buy condensers of specific mfd capacitance for the application needed. For instance a Maytag 92 uses a condenser of about .20mfd's the solid state capacitors work also, but there has been some discussion as to them holding up under vibration, and heat. I know they work well in some applications. If you can't afford a capacitance meter, most automotive electric shops will have one, and some parts stores. probably not the chain auto stores. Now I'll probably have 87 experts tell me I am wrong, but that's my story and I'm sticking to it. I does matter what the mfd capacitance for what application is or is required. other wise you will just burn up the points ....pitting, peaking etc.
________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

I do a functional check on capacitors , or condensers if you like , using a simple analog volt meter, the old kind with a meter that has a needle. Basically, set the meter to the olms setting and measure the resistance. For a good capacitor, the needle should jump towards zero then move towards infinity as you make contact with it. Then switch the meter leads and do it again. This time the needle should jump about twice as far. The first time you are putting a charge of 1.5 volts on the capacitor. When you reverse the leads, you are reversing the charge so the needle will jump further. One end of the capacitor must be disconnected from the circuit. If the meter has some selection, choose a high resistence range.

If the needle stops at a resistance value other than infinity, it is leaking the charge and is bad.





Kevin

 

[WoodDean]

Lol...face it Dean, the 90 hates you and wants to live here. There's a new OE condenser on ebay for $65...whoa...what a deal. Condensers are testable with analog equipment pretty easily. Sounds like your dented one is OK. Don't wind those recoil springs too tight...they just need to be tight enough to barely pull your handle back to its saddle.....not to snap back with a vengeance. You get them too tight and you can't really pull any length out either...bad juju.

Kevin

HAH . . . . . . I will tame this beast.

That condenser has been on ebay for a while, I think it's the same guy who has the new jug for a 90 listed at $200

 

[Real1shepherd]

HAH . . . . . . I will tame this beast.

That condenser has been on ebay for a while, I think it's the same guy who has the new jug for a 90 listed at $200

I lied..he wants $60 and $8.12 to ship....so it's $68.12. Someone hold me back.....

Same guy, don't know if you remember my story about him. He used to be a Jonsered dealer back in the day and still has some OE parts. I inquired about a list of parts I wanted. He had most of the parts NOS. Sent him the money, got a notice from the PO of postage due....went down there and paid $17, took the package home and there was a boat prop in the box! Called him on the phone and he was not apologetic in the least...asked ME how it happened??! I said I dunno, but I'm betting the guy who wanted the boat prop has my saw parts! Didn't hear from him for weeks...called and emailed again. Said he wasn't sending my parts until he got the boat prop back. So I'm into this for $117 including the postage due charge and he's holding my parts for ransom. Nothing like 'trust'! Finally got my original order after a month of this nonsense......after I sent the prop and more postage paid.

I understand about the mistake/switch...it was just the way he handled it...says he doesn't read his email, his wife does....all pretty bizarre business practices and if you look at his store on ebay and the number of products he's sold, you'd expect better.

Kevin

 

[67L36Driver]

What is the turd head's name so we can avoid him?

 

[Real1shepherd]

His seller name is sawdust_man....don't remember his real name. He does have J'red NOS parts if you can deal with his BS......I'm done with him.

Kevin

 

[Cantdog]

Oh Ayah........Clark the Sawdust guy...from Mass......bought a couple items from him in the past when desperately in need....never had any problems.....but prices were way over the top.....don't deal with him anymore either....

 

[Real1shepherd]

Yep, that's him...prices as high as a cat's back, weird/indifferent service in my case.

Kevin

 

[WoodDean]

I lied..he wants $60 and $8.12 to ship....so it's $68.12. Someone hold me back.....

Same guy, don't know if you remember my story about him. He used to be a Jonsered dealer back in the day and still has some OE parts. I inquired about a list of parts I wanted. He had most of the parts NOS. Sent him the money, got a notice from the PO of postage due....went down there and paid $17, took the package home and there was a boat prop in the box! Called him on the phone and he was not apologetic in the least...asked ME how it happened??! I said I dunno, but I'm betting the guy who wanted the boat prop has my saw parts! Didn't hear from him for weeks...called and emailed again. Said he wasn't sending my parts until he got the boat prop back. So I'm into this for $117 including the postage due charge and he's holding my parts for ransom. Nothing like 'trust'! Finally got my original order after a month of this nonsense......after I sent the prop and more postage paid.

I understand about the mistake/switch...it was just the way he handled it...says he doesn't read his email, his wife does....all pretty bizarre business practices and if you look at his store on ebay and the number of products he's sold, you'd expect better.

Kevin

WOW!!! Just WOW . . . . . . that's quite a story. I always thought, at some point you just have to stop what you're doing and make the customer happy. I actually bought something from him and also called and spoke to him once about some Stihl parts. Never got anywhere with him regarding Stihl. But I agree, his business practices are odd.

 

[WoodDean]

Ordered a new recoil spring yesterday. Looks like the one I broke was a cheap aftermarket part. Found a Jonsered NOS this time.

Also, I need a stop switch. Would anyone be willing to sell me one or point me in the right direction to where they may be available?
I checked ebay, saw again and a couple other sites but nothing.

Thanks

 

[Real1shepherd]

Ordered a new recoil spring yesterday. Looks like the one I broke was a cheap aftermarket part. Found a Jonsered NOS this time.

Also, I need a stop switch. Would anyone be willing to sell me one or point me in the right direction to where they may be available?
I checked ebay, saw again and a couple other sites but nothing.

Thanks

They're hard to find OE. I've been looking for awhile myself. The switches they used have a tendency to crack where the plastic is. Might be time to think about a industrial generic switch or a Husky switch.

Kevin

 

[Real1shepherd]

Lesson learned on patience and ebay. I bought an old Sears engine analyzer from a pawn shop here...not too terribly old...probably from the 80's. I love those big analog meters and they have so many uses if they have decent ranges built in(like checking spark & capacitors, see above post). Anyway, no manual....so I find that there are NO manuals for this model from anybody. Go into ebay and find a seller who has the manual really nicely presented in a binder, along with the same analyzer. Don't want the analyzer but offer to buy a 'copy' of his good manual. How can he go wrong right....he still sells the OE manual & analyzer but makes even more selling me a copy of his manual. Holds me up for $25 + shipping. What am I gonna do, right? Pay him the $25 + shipping in 'Buy It Now' and TEN MINUTES later, the very same analyzer appears with a manual, never been used for $14.99 'Buy It Now"!!!!

So you know I had to get that one.....geez, now I'm poor with Sears engine analyzers and manuals....lol.

Kevin

 

[Cantdog]

Lesson learned on patience and ebay. I bought an old Sears engine analyzer from a pawn shop here...not too terribly old...probably from the 80's. I love those big analog meters and they have so many uses if they have decent ranges built in(like checking spark & capacitors, see above post). Anyway, no manual....so I find that there are NO manuals for this model from anybody. Go into ebay and find a seller who has the manual really nicely presented in a binder, along with the same analyzer. Don't want the analyzer but offer to buy a 'copy' of his good manual. How can he go wrong right....he still sells the OE manual & analyzer but makes even more selling me a copy of his manual. Holds me up for $25 + shipping. What am I gonna do, right? Pay him the $25 + shipping in 'Buy It Now' and TEN MINUTES later, the very same analyzer appears with a manual, never been used for $14.99 'Buy It Now"!!!!

So you know I had to get that one.....geez, now I'm poor with Sears engine analyzers and manuals....lol.

Kevin

LOLOLOL!!!! Sounds just like my luck!! Is the ones you have the one with large dual meters...one for dwell and the other rpm...among many other scales/tests??? With a large shunt that goes on your POS terminal...???

 

[Real1shepherd]

LOLOLOL!!!! Sounds just like my luck!! Is the ones you have the one with large dual meters...one for dwell and the other rpm...among many other scales/tests??? With a large shunt that goes on your POS terminal...???

No it's a more modern version that has one gigantic meter with all those functions. I have an old Archerkit from Radio Shack that is similar that I built back in the 70's. This one does a few things more and easier. But then they all probably need to be recapped because they used leaky electrolytics and the resistors are out of tolerance now. Where's the time gonna come from for that, I'm asking myself....lol.

Kevin

 

[WoodDean]

Speaking of where's time gonna come from . . . . . . . I'm out of ideas on this 90. I've been through cranks, cases, seals, gaskets, points, plugs, switches, springs, rings, carbs and jugs.

How about I just pay someone on here to fix the damn thing.

 

[WoodDean]

btw - I just got done swapping carbs and it still doesn't run.

 

[Real1shepherd]

LOL...the best thing is to cut your losses and sell me the saw as a parts saw. I only need two runin' 90's for work. Shipping your saw somewhere and having it shipped back will be your nemesis. And you might have to wait a very long time for it to be fixed. I guess if Robin is interested, he'll say something. I know I can fix your saw, but I have no idea when I can get to it, as I can't find the time for mine. Necessity is making me do the top end on my 2100, but it's like pullin' teeth and I keep being interrupted by other people with their needs, locally.

Kevin

 

[WoodDean]

LOL...the best thing is to cut your losses and sell me the saw as a parts saw. I only need two runin' 90's for work. Shipping your saw somewhere and having it shipped back will be your nemesis. And you might have to wait a very long time for it to be fixed. I guess if Robin is interested, he'll say something. I know I can fix your saw, but I have no idea when I can get to it, as I can't find the time for mine. Necessity is making me do the top end on my 2100, but it's like pullin' teeth and I keep being interrupted by other people with their needs, locally.

Kevin

Thanks Kev, wish you were closer. Maybe Robin will help me out if he has the time.

 

[Real1shepherd]

Thanks Kev, wish you were closer. Maybe Robin will help me out if he has the time.

Me too...it would be a pleasure to get your 90 runnin' right.

Kevin