Jonsered Chainsaws

[WoodDean]

funny story about that condenser, back a few pages in this thread I took pics of it and commented on the condition. Bought and installled a new one from SawAgain but realized it didn't have spark. Swapped the dented one back in and spark was ok.

It was about this time when things started to get confusing and go sideways.

 

[Real1shepherd]

Schlitz Stout malt liquor....now that was a logger's beer here in the PNW. And as we used to say on a Friday night;Schlitz Stout, work it on out!

Kevin

 

[Real1shepherd]

funny story about that condenser, back a few pages in this thread I took pics of it and commented on the condition. Bought and installled a new one from SawAgain but realized it didn't have spark. Swapped the dented one back in and spark was ok.

It was about this time when things started to get confusing and go sideways.

Interesting....did SawAgain make good on the condenser and/or did you test the condenser like I posted around that time?

Kevin

 

[Cantdog]

Here's some very sweet 90 stuff!!!! Still need a pile of parts to make it go....and for $500.......kinda spendy...but he says make offer.....sure would make a nice start to a great saw.......alas... beyond my financial abilities at present...http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Jon...415064628?pt=US_Chainsaws&hash=item1c44e6dc34

 

[taplinhill]

Yeah, $500 should buy a mint 90. But some people throw up a big number hoping to snag a little more than they really want. I wonder what they would take?

 

[Cantdog]

Yeah, $500 should buy a mint 90. But some people throw up a big number hoping to snag a little more than they really want. I wonder what they would take?

Don't know Eric...I don't think I've ever bought from this seller......$400....I would guess...I was wondering about customs fees etc. being new stuff and from Canada......nice stuff.....

 

[Real1shepherd]

Wow....just when you think you've seen everything on the bay! Given that the stuff is NOS, there is definitely value there. The case I'd probably never use and the crank set, carb and ignition stuff are gone. I can't say that he's overpriced, but like Robin I'm not gonna touch this one. You should be able to find a really nice runnin' 90 for that, by comparison. The sum of all the parts listed separately is probably close. But he's not doing himself any favors by throwing them altogether as an almost complete saw. Best of luck to Eric on this one.....and yeah, used parts from Canada are no problem...but these are NOS and by the book probably custom fees attached.

Kevin

 

[WoodDean]

Interesting....did SawAgain make good on the condenser and/or did you test the condenser like I posted around that time?

Kevin

I eventually did test it, it was bad. Never went back to Sawagain for a complaint.

 

[Cantdog]

Well Dean......... it looks as if your 90's time here on the Rockbound Coast of Maine is nearly over.......started, ran and idled perfectly on the second pull, cold this morning.....compression test said just a hair under 150 psi....a tad lower than I would have thought, however.... no where near broken in......I fully expect it to increase over time...it sounds great.....I'll PM later this evening with details of what work and parts I put into it..

 

[Real1shepherd]

Well Dean......... it looks as if your 90's time here on the Rockbound Coast of Maine is nearly over.......started, ran and idled perfectly on the second pull, cold this morning.....compression test said just a hair under 150 psi....a tad lower than I would have thought, however.... no where near broken in......I fully expect it to increase over time...it sounds great.....I'll PM later this evening with details of what work and parts I put into it..

I'm told that if he put in Cabers...the compression will go up after a couple of tankfuls. Those old J'reds run great even around 150psi as do the older Husky's. They're very forgiving that way and shovel out lots of low-end torque.

Kevin

 

[Real1shepherd]

I eventually did test it, it was bad. Never went back to Sawagain for a complaint.

It would be a good test of that place...I've bought a lot there. Was only 'taken' once on a OE starter handle that was pretty rough, but described as 'very good'. Especially if they sold you the part as NOS. As far as I know, condensers don't have a 'shelf-life' unless exposed to the elements.

Kevin

 

[WoodDean]

Well Dean......... it looks as if your 90's time here on the Rockbound Coast of Maine is nearly over.......started, ran and idled perfectly on the second pull, cold this morning.....compression test said just a hair under 150 psi....a tad lower than I would have thought, however.... no where near broken in......I fully expect it to increase over time...it sounds great.....I'll PM later this evening with details of what work and parts I put into it..

Looking forward to it. It's been quite a process and thanks to all who helped resurrect another old Jonsereds. I cant thank you enough for your time Robin and a shout-out to Kevin who always seems to have a troubleshooting process for any problem.

 

[WoodDean]

So your saying the compression will go up once it's broken in more? I know I've seen some compression numbers here in the 175 range. Normally in a car you don't exceed certain RPMs for the first X amount of miles. That's kinda hard to do with a chainsaw. I've replaced the jug, piston and rings before but never really thought about the break-in process . . . . . . . . if there is one.

Do you guys do anything differently during this period? btw - what's a cabers?

 

[Cantdog]

So your saying the compression will go up once it's broken in more? I know I've seen some compression numbers here in the 175 range. Normally in a car you don't exceed certain RPMs for the first X amount of miles. That's kinda hard to do with a chainsaw. I've replaced the jug, piston and rings before but never really thought about the break-in process . . . . . . . . if there is one.

Do you guys do anything differently during this period? btw - what's a cabers?

Yes, as the rings wear into the bore the compression will increase some....also any carbon buildup in the combustion chamber and piston crown will increase compression as well. The crosshatch honed into the cyl bore cuts (wears) the cast iron rings to creat a perfect fit to the cyl bore, thus increasing compression. Other Jonsereds of the same era that I have carry some outstanding numbers.....my 621 runs 215 lbs. My 80 runs 238 lbs and has never been apart. The 90 is the only one with a decomp and I expect that may leak off a little compression at pull over speeds even when not engaged.

As far as break in.....just run it....I've heated it and cooled it and retorqued your cyl bolts ( which you should check one more time after 10 tanks or so)...I've got you adjusted a tad rich on the "H" so she runs in a couple hundred rpm less than spec (11,300) at WOT....of course that's at sea level (45') so you may/may not have to retune very slightly for your elevation (670 +-). I have run it pretty hard with a 24" bar buried the entire cut, every cut...so no need to baby it just use good syth oil..I use only Stihl Ultra....as you all know I'm no Stihl flag waver but Ultra was designed for their 4-mix motors and is extremely high detergent as any carbon buildup on those tiny valve stems is instant death to those. I run all my saws at 50:1 erring on the more oil side but very little so really ...maybe ....48:1... and have been very happy with the results......I have a ported 630 SuperII that is 7 yrs old...I sold it to a guy who cuts firewood for $$$.....part of the deal was he keep using Ultra....he brings it in once a yr. I pull the cyl and check ring end gap etc...new fuel line and carb kit...just generally go completely through the saw, fix anything I see that isn't in good order......the piston crown and ex port are always completely clean and devoid of any carbon buildup....so I keep using Ultra......there are other synth oils that are just as good I'm sure.....but I can buy Ultra a mile from my shop...every time I need to...no chasing around for oil...I'm kinda anal about oil....like to use just one brand in a motor and keep it that way.....I have yet to burn up a saw motor.....I have completely worn them out before but never toasted one.....like most that show up here!!!

Caber rings are very good quality Italian made (I believe) cast iron rings...they come on Meteor pistons or can be bought separately.... as good as OEM which I assume are what yours are.

 

[atlarge54]

Does a NOS Mahle P/C for a 111 have any value? Might have NOS clutches too.

 

[Cantdog]

Does a NOS Mahle P/C for a 111 have any value? Might have NOS clutches too.

LOL!! You kidding...right??? Any NOS part for a 111 is worth money....a NOS P&C kit...especially so. As a matter of fact I am looking for a rim drive clutch drum for my 111S.......would you have anything like that??

 

[atlarge54]

Oregon #20192 work? Photos on a thread about Mahle P/C ID that I started last night.

 

[Cantdog]

Oregon #20192 work? Photos on a thread about Mahle P/C ID that I started last night.

Don't know......I saw your pics in the other post. Looks like a 111 clutch but can't find that Oregon # on the website as it's probably obsolete, but I'll go over to the shop and measure the outside dia of the 111s clutch shoes and get back to you.....could you also get me the ID of the hole where the clutch bearing goes??....thanks..

 

[WoodDean]

Did y'all see the 111 crank on ebay?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Jon...417241122?pt=US_Chainsaws&hash=item1c45081222

 

[WoodDean]

It's the same person who had the NOS 90 parts for sale. I threw a low bid on it and never got a reply.