Jonsered Chainsaws

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I've never had a real dirty saw carb internally....I guess because I'm fanatical about keeping the airbox clean. Even in the woods, I had a 12volt air compressor and portable tanks. Blow out the airboxes at lunch and again at night. Never had a carb fail me.....just seemed to make sense. However, I've BOUGHT saws so filthy that I couldn't even see how many hrs they had, until I cleaned them up. It just amazes me how dirty they let the airbox and the saw get. It's like;Let's see how dirty I can get my saw before it quits on me!

Brother, if I could take the time to clean a saw when I was loggin'....where time is virtually your pay, then anyone should be able to stop and clean a saw before the gunk finds its way into your carb and/or the jug. :rolleyes:

Kevin
Heh,
Kevin,
I just sold you one.
 
So your saying the compression will go up once it's broken in more? I know I've seen some compression numbers here in the 175 range. Normally in a car you don't exceed certain RPMs for the first X amount of miles. That's kinda hard to do with a chainsaw. I've replaced the jug, piston and rings before but never really thought about the break-in process . . . . . . . . if there is one.

Do you guys do anything differently during this period? btw - what's a cabers?

The Husky reps told us in the woods with the 2100 series to run them hard like you would any saw, broken in....except not to let them get too hot. Let them cool down completely and use them again-cycling is the key to setting rings. That cross-hatch pattern doesn't seem as important in chainsaws to replicate as in car/truck motors. I suspect because of the heat generated and the high rpm's. Also the chrome or Nakasil plating on these aluminum jugs is very thin....especially the Nakasil jugs. Even though Baileys sells hones specifically for chainsaws, I'd be leery about using them in old jugs with yrs of service. Instead, I decided to use the 'wigglesworth' method of polishing with ScotchBrite pads. See Mastermind's youtube vids on this. You can get more aggressive with grit paper like he does or just polish the jug with a mandrel and the ScotchBrite pads(what I did on the ol' 2100 jug). The way I look at it...even just polishing the jug is improving it and throwing in Cabers just hedges your bet.

As Robin said, oil mix and keeping the carb tuned correctly is everything in chainsaws. If you're running chainsaw for yrs and not seeing any fowling on your exhaust port and/or the plug has the classic ashen look, you're using the right oil mix. Plugs tell you everything and so do your intake and exhaust ports.

Kevin
 
Visited the PO today, Robin. Check's in the mail.


Super!! I'll get her packed up nice and tidy and send her out Tue or Wed.....or at least I'll try...busy week...one and only daughter is leaving for the Czech Republic to teach English for the next 10 months...gonna be a bit crazy here this week........I'll do my best and I'll send tracking and insurance info as soon as I have it.....
 
It's the same person who had the NOS 90 parts for sale. I threw a low bid on it and never got a reply.

I'm afraid it's 'supply & demand' with the old J'reds on ebay. I saw this happen with the venerable Husky's and now the focus is slowly turning on old J'reds. There are still deals out there, but you really have to pay attention and wait......

Kevin
 
I'm afraid it's 'supply & demand' with the old J'reds on ebay. I saw this happen with the venerable Husky's and now the focus is slowly turning on old J'reds. There are still deals out there, but you really have to pay attention and wait......

Kevin

Yeah you never know......I was watching that 910 on ebay that got over yesterday morning....not much activity bidding...I whacked it with a $15 dollar higher bid in the last seconds and was outbid......Oh well.....didn't need it that bad .....or I'da bid higher!!

Glad you got a 910E Kevin...good project saws...got a couple parts saws if you can't get what you need for it.....might be able to help....
 
Yeah you never know......I was watching that 910 on ebay that got over yesterday morning....not much activity bidding...I whacked it with a $15 dollar higher bid in the last seconds and was outbid......Oh well.....didn't need it that bad .....or I'da bid higher!!

Glad you got a 910E Kevin...good project saws...got a couple parts saws if you can't get what you need for it.....might be able to help....

Work has been kicking my butt, so I haven't been watching the bay as I usually do. I didn't see the 910...how much did it finally go for? Still have the link(?)...be curious to look at it. Looking for some parts now for the 910...they ain't cheap. I'm hoping this holiday weekend to get the saw on the bench and make a list.

Come fall, I expect ebay saw prices to climb for the wood gathering frenzy.

Kevin
 
As Robin said, oil mix and keeping the carb tuned correctly is everything in chainsaws. If you're running chainsaw for yrs and not seeing any fowling on your exhaust port and/or the plug has the classic ashen look, you're using the right oil mix. Plugs tell you everything and so do your intake and exhaust ports.

Kevin

Got my first 6 pack of HP Ultra today and mixed a gallon. I like the fact that the fuel stabilizer is in it. I'll probably burn some of it tomorrow at the mill on a slab pile. Thanks for the tip guys.
 
Got my first 6 pack of HP Ultra today and mixed a gallon. I like the fact that the fuel stabilizer is in it. I'll probably burn some of it tomorrow at the mill on a slab pile. Thanks for the tip guys.

I know this isn't always possible in some parts of the country but....try to run +, or premium without ethanol. The lower grades of gas will run your older chainsaws really hot....hot is not good in a high rpm, aluminum piston & jug. And Stihl says to not use a gas mix(even theirs), that is three months old or older.

Kevin
 
I know this isn't always possible in some parts of the country but....try to run +, or premium without ethanol. The lower grades of gas will run your older chainsaws really hot....hot is not good in a high rpm, aluminum piston & jug. And Stihl says to not use a gas mix(even theirs), that is three months old or older.

Kevin

Yeah we don't have much choice here....E10 is all there is here...Maine won't even let marinas sell off road ethanol free gas....this has been a real hardship for some boat owners that have built in fiberglass fuel tanks...the ethanol goes after the polyester (resin) dissolves it and releases glass fibers into the fuel system which will get stopped by the fuel filters but will actually clog them up causing the motor to starve and stop when you are on a run....of course I always carry at least two spare filters onboard and I have alum tanks.
 
I know this isn't always possible in some parts of the country but....try to run +, or premium without ethanol. The lower grades of gas will run your older chainsaws really hot....hot is not good in a high rpm, aluminum piston & jug. And Stihl says to not use a gas mix(even theirs), that is three months old or older.

Kevin
Lucky for me here in PA we do have some stations that sell non-ethanol. Just recently I've started to put that or high-test in all my small engines.
 
Yeah we don't have much choice here....E10 is all there is here...Maine won't even let marinas sell off road ethanol free gas....this has been a real hardship for some boat owners that have built in fiberglass fuel tanks...the ethanol goes after the polyester (resin) dissolves it and releases glass fibers into the fuel system which will get stopped by the fuel filters but will actually clog them up causing the motor to starve and stop when you are on a run....of course I always carry at least two spare filters onboard and I have alum tanks.

Wow...that's a negative reaction to ethanol I hadn't heard about...bummer!

I've gotten into some pretty beefy arguments about ethanol in fuel on small engine forums. All I know is that the stuff is very hygroscopic and I see unbelievable corrosion in the fuel systems that I never saw with non-ethanol gas.....carbs corroded and looking like they did service underwater, for example. However, not even non-ethanol gas stores very well without putting in fuel stabilizers like Sta-Bil.

Kevin
 
Wow...that's a negative reaction to ethanol I hadn't heard about...bummer!

I've gotten into some pretty beefy arguments about ethanol in fuel on small engine forums. All I know is that the stuff is very hygroscopic and I see unbelievable corrosion in the fuel systems that I never saw with non-ethanol gas.....carbs corroded and looking like they did service underwater, for example. However, not even non-ethanol gas stores very well without putting in fuel stabilizers like Sta-Bil.

Kevin

Fiberglass gasoline tanks were great until E-Gas......could be made any size cheaply and to fit nicely in weird and unused spaces above and below decks and it got you away from the usual condensation issues that are associated with metal tanks (alum, SS or plain steel).
 

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