Jonsered Chainsaws

[workshop]

Check here:

http://www.manualslib.com/manual/514244/Jonsered-2036.html#product-670

Thanks, Tezza

 

[WoodDean]

Question for the group:

Do you adjust your carburetor regularly?

 

[Cantdog]

Question for the group:

Do you adjust your carburetor regularly?

No..........

 

[WoodDean]

No..........

Ok, the 90 runs perfect after it came back from the rockbound coast of Maine. The other day I started it and it had a problem maintaining an idle.
Today, I'm working around the mill and the Stihl 026 does the same thing.
I actually adjusted the carb on the Stihl and now it seems fine. I didn't touch the 90.

I was just wondering if anyone "seasonally" adjusts their carb. My mix hasn't changed since I standardized on stihl ultra.

 

[WoodDean]

Meanwhile the creation of the other 90 continues;

Spent saturday digging through my parts box and sorting pieces. Installed the points plate and replaced the wiring with new connectors. Installed the flywheel.
Installed the fuel block and replaced all the lines, I found a tank vent. Assembled the clutch on the spider gear. looks like I'm missing a couple of washers around the clutch assembly.

I was smart enough to make a couple traced copies of the cylinder gasket Robin gave me and I have a couple carb gaskets. I'm going to need a cylinder/manifold and muffler gasket.

Also ordered some parts; Found one NOS AV mount for the rear handle, I'll need one more. Found a NOS clutch cover at a good price. Ordered an Oregon 20" bar. Plus I still have several bids out there on ebay.

 

[Real1shepherd]

Question for the group:

Do you adjust your carburetor regularly?

Only if I switch oil/gas mix. Usually, if I notice a performance difference or and idle quirk, it's from a dirty air filter or a semi clogged fuel filter. Sometimes the spark plugs fail.....that's about it.

I had my 80 on a job the other day cutting fence posts. It was running and just slowly died. I had no tools or spare parts for it because I just had it cutting posts....my bad. When you do that, you're just asking for trouble. Checked the spark and it was fine....figured it was a fuel problem because the plug wouldn't get wet. Brought it home and cleaned the fuel filter first and it fired right up....been going fine since. Usually have two saws on any job and backup tools/parts.....just got too cocky. Oh and I have a stress crack in my full wrap handle....gonna have to take it to the community college and have them TIG it correctly.

Kevin

 

[Cantdog]

Ok, the 90 runs perfect after it came back from the rockbound coast of Maine. The other day I started it and it had a problem maintaining an idle.
Today, I'm working around the mill and the Stihl 026 does the same thing.
I actually adjusted the carb on the Stihl and now it seems fine. I didn't touch the 90.

I was just wondering if anyone "seasonally" adjusts their carb. My mix hasn't changed since I standardized on stihl ultra.

Well....very slight seasonal tweaking might be necessary due to temp/humidity changes, but I wouldn't classify that as regular/frequent adjusting.........also you may well find that as your saw gets broke in you may have to lean both H&L out just a tad....shouldn't need very much .....maybe 1/8th turn. Maybe not that much....that carb was a bit sensitive on the adjustments. Go slow and be aware/index where you start adjusting from so that you can return to that spot again if necessary. I purposefully left you with both H&L a little fat so she'd have good lube and cooling as it broke in. It may not be requiring quite as much fuel now as it did when brand new. This would show up most at idle.

 

[WoodDean]

also you may well find that as your saw gets broke in you may have to lean both H&L out just a tad

Ya know, that may be it. Now that I think about it, both saws had their top ends replaced. Could be they're just "breaking in" at the same time.
I leaned the Stihl slightly to tune it. I'll be gentle with the 90 if I have to tweek it. Thanks

 

[Real1shepherd]

Ya know, that may be it. Now that I think about it, both saws had their top ends replaced. Could be they're just "breaking in" at the same time.
I leaned the Stihl slightly to tune it. I'll be gentle with the 90 if I have to tweek it. Thanks

I like Robin's advice on breaking them in a little 'fat'. But run them hard to seat the rings...allow some cooling down time at some points during the day. Don't just run them flat out all day while you break in. Just like breaking in a high performance motor;run alternately hard & soft with some cooling time in between. On a chain saw, hard running is dug-in buckin' and fallin'...soft running would be the equivalent of limbing or cutting small diameter firewood.

Kevin

 

[Real1shepherd]

Used to ask the reps(like Husky), if there was anything special about breakin' in their pro saws. Nope...just run them like any other day. If you think about it..we're dug-in fallin' one minute then walking down the tree limbin' and marking for log lengths...then bucking. So you've covered all aspects of the break-in. Add a few rest breaks to let the saws cool down and/or sharpen chain.......it's a nearly perfect break-in procedure.

Kevin

 

[Real1shepherd]

Bought a spare 90 jug off the bay...used OE. You can never tell by the pics on the bore. Traditionally, you'd need a real macro lens and a 35mm camera to really take the best pics. I suppose it could be done digitally somehow....but the pics are always awful on ebay.

Was also looking at Husky 2100 parts OE...the sellers are possessed and not in a good way.

Kevin

 

[WoodDean]

Bought a spare 90 jug off the bay...used OE. You can never tell by the pics on the bore. Traditionally, you'd need a real macro lens and a 35mm camera to really take the best pics. I suppose it could be done digitally somehow....but the pics are always awful on ebay.

Was also looking at Husky 2100 parts OE...the sellers are possessed and not in a good way.

Kevin

I just bought another 90 crankcase (busted) with the flywheel, points plate and clutch intact. got it from a member on this site.

 

[Real1shepherd]

I just bought another 90 crankcase (busted) with the flywheel, points plate and clutch intact. got it from a member on this site.

The crank is broken how...totaled or the case? Well, the flywheel, clutch and points plate are certainly worth coin! You can't have too many spares on these old saws....that's why I bought the used jug. Also, this stuff trades like real cash if another member wants what you have. I honestly will buy anything for the 80/90 and the Husky 2100 if I see it and it's a decent price. I just bought a recoil assembly for my 90, so I don't have to transfer that screen from another housing...priced right too.

Dean, did you ever buy that NOS 90 jug from Saw It Again?

Kevin

 

[Cantdog]

I just bought another 90 crankcase (busted) with the flywheel, points plate and clutch intact. got it from a member on this site.

You could use a "new" flywheel on your 90.....one of the puller holes is stripped/wallered out but there was enough room to get a two jaw puller on it......thought about replacing it for you but.....didn't want to take the liberty as it still worked and I could use a different puller than I use on all the older Jonsereds.......can't ever have to many spare parts........

 

[WoodDean]

The crank is broken how...totaled or the case? Well, the flywheel, clutch and points plate are certainly worth coin! You can't have too many spares on these old saws....that's why I bought the used jug. Also, this stuff trades like real cash if another member wants what you have. I honestly will buy anything for the 80/90 and the Husky 2100 if I see it and it's a decent price. I just bought a recoil assembly for my 90, so I don't have to transfer that screen from another housing...priced right too.

Dean, did you ever buy that NOS 90 jug from Saw It Again?

Kevin

Not exactly sure how the crankcase is "broken" but given the price and the other pieces involved I still thought it was a good deal. The points plate alone was worth it.

Yes Kev, I bought the NOS jug AND piston/ring from SawAgain. I did see they still have a jug for $169.
And not that I'll ever get my money out of it BUT . . . . . as I find and buy NOS pieces I'll replace them on the running saw.
The used pieces I'll transfer to my 90 project saw.

 

[WoodDean]

You could use a "new" flywheel on your 90.....one of the puller holes is stripped/wallered out but there was enough room to get a two jaw puller on it......thought about replacing it for you but.....didn't want to take the liberty as it still worked and I could use a different puller than I use on all the older Jonsereds.......can't ever have to many spare parts........

Thanks Robin, I know it was also nicked badly on the inside. The parts saw I'm buying has a flywheel on it so I'll check it out and my project saw has a good flywheel also.

 

[WoodDean]

All,

Was wondering why the parts numbers on my 90 IPL all start with 4xxxxx, but when parts are listed on ebay for a 90 they all seem to start with 5xxxxx.

How do I find these 5xxxxx listed number for a cross-reference?

 

[WoodDean]

FYI - JONSERED 70 E CARBURETOR MANIFOLD GASKET 504130022 does fit the 90.

 

[Cantdog]

Thanks Robin, I know it was also nicked badly on the inside. The parts saw I'm buying has a flywheel on it so I'll check it out and my project saw has a good flywheel also.

Yes it was nicked up on the inside......not sure what happened but something got away in there and most likely is what dented/destroyed the old condenser in the same event......

 

[Heffalump]

For some good ol' fashioned Jonny-Saw fun, check this out!

http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/mini-gtg.265464/#post-5007323