Jonsered Chainsaws

[Cantdog]

I'm not sure why you guys seesaw logs like that. If you're using sharp chisel chain, sink the saw/dawgs in at the top and rotate the bar down to 90 degrees. Then finish your cut with the dawgs on the operator side. There's no way seesawing like that is faster, or we'd doing it loggin'. Yeah, I've watched what they do with race saws, but that's a different animal than even woods ported saws.

Kevin

I didn't draw your attention to the vids to highlight my abilities or inabilities with a saw.....I simply thought folks with a common interest in this brand would enjoy seeing and hearing not one but two 111S at work in a 30" red oak stick. I understand what you are saying Kevin....however your way is certainly not the only way and perhaps not appropriate all the time. If you had paid more attention to the vid and less trying to find fault with others techniques you would, perhaps have noticed that my 111s did not have any dogs on at all. This is a very mint saw with all the paint still on the front and a totally dent free muffler........I was having to hold the saw back from the log to keep it this way. When approaching the full diameter the pull was quite fierce...(.404 full comp chisel fresh grind)....I found that cutting 18" (seesawing as you call it) to a time a much more controllable approach to keep the saw face back from the log. I don't know what to tell ya....Lee challenged me to a race.......I don't enjoy competition......however it's rude to blow off your host......whether I did it right or wrong.......I still laid the cookie down 10-11 sec before he finished and threw his chain.........LOL!

 

[WoodDean]

kevin - spoken like a true logger, working a stand and trying as hard as he can to earn a paycheck and be productive.

Robin - spoken like a guy who was out enjoying a Ballentine and hanging with his buds to display his wares.

 

[Real1shepherd]

I didn't draw your attention to the vids to highlight my abilities or inabilities with a saw.....I simply thought folks with a common interest in this brand would enjoy seeing and hearing not one but two 111S at work in a 30" red oak stick. I understand what you are saying Kevin....however your way is certainly not the only way and perhaps not appropriate all the time. If you had paid more attention to the vid and less trying to find fault with others techniques you would, perhaps have noticed that my 111s did not have any dogs on at all. This is a very mint saw with all the paint still on the front and a totally dent free muffler........I was having to hold the saw back from the log to keep it this way. When approaching the full diameter the pull was quite fierce...(.404 full comp chisel fresh grind)....I found that cutting 18" (seesawing as you call it) to a time a much more controllable approach to keep the saw face back from the log. I don't know what to tell ya....Lee challenged me to a race.......I don't enjoy competition......however it's rude to blow off your host......whether I did it right or wrong.......I still laid the cookie down 10-11 sec before he finished and threw his chain.........LOL!

Not trying to rattle sabers with you Robin...sorry you got offended. No, I didn't notice you didn't have any dawgs on the saw, as my eyes were drawn to the seesawing. But the point is still valid;seesawing a chainsaw doesn't improve your time into a cut on a relatively stock saw. If the saw was so powerful that it was pulling you into the log, I can see your point with no dawgs. Obviously you have an Achilles Heel(we all do) and you find the criticism unwarranted. Again, I apologize if I offended you. I had my ears boxed in the beginning when I started bucking and was caught seesawing logs. And the method I wrote to Dean about is generally for larger scale logs. However, digging the dawgs in(when you have dawgs I guess) at some angle, is generally appropriate in all circumstances.

And yeah, the 111S seems to have it's own particular sound.....although I'd like to hear it in the flesh sometime.

Kevin

 

[WoodDean]

I have enough pieces left over from the 90 rebuild, that I think I can build another 90.
It's going to take a while but it would be a good winter project.

Things I have: Crankcase with shaft, jug, piston, carb, points plate, recoil housing, oiler
Things I need: rear handle and throttle linkage, top cover, coil, on/off switch and wiring, dawgs, condenser, Cylinder gasket

I can probably eventually run into most of the pieces on ebay, but the gaskets are tough.
The first thing I need to do is tap the stripped holes in the top of the crank.

 

[Real1shepherd]

I have enough pieces left over from the 90 rebuild, that I think I can build another 90.
It's going to take a while but it would be a good winter project.

Things I have: Crankcase with shaft, jug, piston, carb, points plate, recoil housing, oiler
Things I need: rear handle and throttle linkage, top cover, coil, on/off switch and wiring, dawgs, condenser, Cylinder gasket

I can probably eventually run into most of the pieces on ebay, but the gaskets are tough.
The first thing I need to do is tap the stripped holes in the top of the crank.

Some of the holes for the top cover are stripped? There's a handle assembly on ebay right now, but the wing is broken in one place if you look carefully at the pics. Original switches are rare and if found, usually have cracks but usable. Let me know if you really can't find something. Just make the gasket....it's easier than the stress of finding one. I have a source for Cabers....what's the jug like inside? Except for the top cover, air filter cover, air filter and carb elbow, you can rob an 80 for parts or also look at the 80 section of ebay. The jug & piston are the only other differences between the 80/90.

Kevin

 

[WoodDean]

Some of the holes for the top cover are stripped?

Yes, and someone pushed these cone shaped springs into the stripped holes. Thanks for the tip on the ebay handle, hadn't noticed the broken wing.

what's the jug like inside?

It looks ok, I gave it Robin's redneck check and it passed!!!

I thought the 90 was the same as the 801 (not the 80) except for the decomp valve.

 

[Real1shepherd]

Yes, and someone pushed these cone shaped springs into the stripped holes. Thanks for the tip on the ebay handle, hadn't noticed the broken wing.


It looks ok, I gave it Robin's redneck check and it passed!!!

I thought the 90 was the same as the 801 (not the 80) except for the decomp valve.

No, the 801 is the same cc as the 80 and is exactly the same internally. But the 801 has the top cover and air filter like the 90. The 80 has its own unique round air filter. The 80 never had a decomp valve. The 90 is 7cc bigger, but shares the same crank as the 80/801.

I always use steel inserts for my stripped holes whenever possible. I prefer Time Serts, but their prices are off the wall crazy. The taps they use for their inserts are really odd and very hard to find. I've tried to defeat their 'kit' pricing by outsourcing the tap and making my own insert tool. It was more trouble than it was worth. My local ACE here has steel, metric inserts and lately I just use those in place with some red Loctite. Taps easy to find and never had any trouble with the ACE inserts in the field. But back in the day I had trouble with Helicoil spring inserts.

Kevin

 

[Cantdog]

I have enough pieces left over from the 90 rebuild, that I think I can build another 90.
It's going to take a while but it would be a good winter project.

Things I have: Crankcase with shaft, jug, piston, carb, points plate, recoil housing, oiler
Things I need: rear handle and throttle linkage, top cover, coil, on/off switch and wiring, dawgs, condenser, Cylinder gasket

I can probably eventually run into most of the pieces on ebay, but the gaskets are tough.
The first thing I need to do is tap the stripped holes in the top of the crank.

Dean...on the rear handle...any model Jonsereds handle from that era will fit...except from the 621. The 49sp, 50, 51, 52/52E, 66E/70E, 80, 801, and 90...however you will need to install the linkage for an 80, 801 or 90. The bottom part of the handle can be different but not always. All 49sp and later 70E had a plastic one piece bottom part. the 50,51, 52/52E, early 66 and 70E, 80, 801 and 90 all had the two piece bottom parts. AV rubbers all fit too....however the heavier saws have a different part number, propably a heavier duty rubber buffer......but the ones from the lighter saws fit and work fine for general use...I've used them and not broken any, nor had metal to metal. Everything's the same except the linkage itself. The standard dawgs like your 90 has are the same too...including the 621.

 

[Real1shepherd]

Dean, in addition to Robin's good advice...the two part bottom plastic bottom handle will fit on the 90/80(probably from a 70?), but it's not correct. It should be two metal pieces with the plastic wing. I had the two part bottom plastic handle on my 80 for a few yrs until I found the metal pieces and the wing. The wing is tough to find whole and not broken/stripped. There's no fixing that wing when the holes get stripped or broken. A couple of the screw bolts are extra long for the wing....don't lose those if you have a stripped wing.

Kevin

 

[workshop]

Hey everybody. Thought I would try here with the experts. Anyone have a service manual for a 670 Super that would be willing to email to me? Thanks, guys.

 

[WoodDean]

1. Bassmaster, I inquired about this saw earlier in the week and looked at it this evening.
   
   The compression seemed good and it had spark. Not terribly bad condition considering the age and all the parts were there, owner said it hadn't been run in 10 years. Has a 15" bar on it and the oil and gas had been drained from the machine long ago.
   
   One problem was that the pull cord housing was broken around the connecting screws. It will need replaced.
   
   I offered him $40 and he accepted.
   
   WoodDean, Dec 3, 2010
   
   
   
2. Good score and a super price!!! Even with a broken recoil housing!!
   
   Sorry.....Bassmaster but in deals of this nature "He who hesitates is lost"
   
   The seller is probably happy to have gotten even $40 for an old junk saw that he had no use for!!
   
   Good deal.... Fix her and run it, WoodDean.
   
   Cantdog, Dec 4, 2010

Was searching the site and came across this exchange. Who would've guessed Robin would fix that saw 4 years later!!!????!!!!

 

[Real1shepherd]

Stranger things have happened, for sure!

I bought a 90 on the bay that was "for parts" at a very decent price. Saw was just horribly dirty......bone stock with everything factory still on it. Rotten gas in the tank, or should I say syrup? Lows hrs and stripped thread holes at the hands of a barbarian. Presently my best running saw, but to be fair to the others, this one is lowest in hrs.

Kevin

 

[WoodDean]

So diggin this saw.

 

[Real1shepherd]

View attachment 373280

So diggin this saw.

Oh hell yeah, it's a 90 after all! Can't wait to get my 910 going to see how they compare.....

Kevin

 

[Heffalump]

PNW Weekend fun!

Some of my and @sawfun 's Jonnys going for a ride in my '47 Bantam T3-C. 111S, two 70E's, and 2 52E's, and an 80 with a 90 top end.


My cedar stump.

 

[Real1shepherd]

A gaggle of J'reds....how awesome....thanks for the pics! Looks like a sweet 111S.

Kevin

 

[WoodDean]

an 80 with a 90 top end.

That sounds interesting. Didn't know you could do that.

 

[TEZZA]

Hey everybody. Thought I would try here with the experts. Anyone have a service manual for a 670 Super that would be willing to email to me? Thanks, guys.

Check here:

http://www.manualslib.com/manual/514244/Jonsered-2036.html#product-670

 

[Real1shepherd]

That sounds interesting. Didn't know you could do that.

Oh yeah, in fact if you wanted to and has access to the parts, you could fully convert a 80 to a 90 by the carb elbow, air filter, top cover and filter cover....in addition to the bigger piston & jug. I was gonna do that once to my 80, but picked up a 90 instead which killed the project. Anyway, there are a lot of 80's floating around with 90 pistons & jugs. However, if you're trying to glean the parts off ebay, it would be better to just buy a 90 in most cases. In my boxes of stuff, I have a NOS piston & rings for a 90, but no extra jug.

Kevin

 

[Real1shepherd]

Check here:

http://www.manualslib.com/manual/514244/Jonsered-2036.html#product-670

Too bad they don't have the older stuff. This was a resource I missed in my google searches. Stupidly, I let a 910 complete gasket set and a Service Manual slip through ebay just before I bought my 910. I was pretty sure I was going to buy a 910...my bad.

Kevin