Jonsered Chainsaws

[Real1shepherd]

I don't think the 9xx coils are limited, are they?

I don't know...it was the scuttle I read from some AS members.

Kevin

 

[Real1shepherd]

Finally dropped the $$$ for a NOS set of 111S inner dogs today...from sawagain.com...couldn't find them anywhere else. Spendy but she definitely needs them...son-of-a-gun to hold back from the log in a cut......no dents in the muffler and wanna keep it that way if I can......so well worth the price...I guess....

Well, that's the rub with a saw that scarce. I usually made my own dawgs for fallin' & buckin' if I didn't like the factory set up. But I used the factory ones as a template to start with....never had to start from scratch.

NOS, yeah...the ultimate $$$...lol

Can you post a pic of the dawgs when ya get them...would like to know what they look like?

Kevin

 

[taplinhill]

I was lucky I snagged one for my 111S off ebay for $5 because the seller didn't know what it fit.
Now if I could only be half as lucky with a decompression valve.

 

[Real1shepherd]

I was lucky I snagged one for my 111S off ebay for $5 because the seller didn't know what it fit.
Now if I could only be half as lucky with a decompression valve.

Is the decomp proprietary on that saw or will other J'red decomps fit? In actual use on the 90, my knuckles hit the decomp as I carry it idling. I bought some plugs that fit, but need the copper crush washers new, if I can find them. Not feelin' the love for decomps.....lol My Husky 2100s' don't have decomps and I've gotten along fine all these yrs...but that's a pretty hot electronic spark. Aren't all the 111S' point saws?

Kevin

 

[Cantdog]

Is the decomp proprietary on that saw or will other J'red decomps fit? In actual use on the 90, my knuckles hit the decomp as I carry it idling. I bought some plugs that fit, but need the copper crush washers new, if I can find them. Not feelin' the love for decomps.....lol My Husky 2100s' don't have decomps and I've gotten along fine all these yrs...but that's a pretty hot electronic spark. Aren't all the 111S' point saws?

Kevin

Nope it's all unto itself in the decomp world......doesn't pop up and down like the 90 or 910......it turns...and you have to turn it off and on....doesn't go off when the engine starts......and yes they are all (Stock) points saws.

 

[Cantdog]

I was lucky I snagged one for my 111S off ebay for $5 because the seller didn't know what it fit.
Now if I could only be half as lucky with a decompression valve.

That was lucky Eric!! I paid dearly but at least it's NOS..... I'll keep an eye out for a decomp...you never know!!

 

[Real1shepherd]

Nope it's all unto itself in the decomp world......doesn't pop up and down like the 90 or 910......it turns...and you have to turn it off and on....doesn't go off when the engine starts......and yes they are all (Stock) points saws.

But what about the hole thread size...is that unlike the other J'red decomps like the 90? I'm just wondering why a 'conventional' decomp wouldn't work if it was the same hole thread size......if it's a proprietary size, damn.

Kevin

 

[Cantdog]

But what about the hole thread size...is that unlike the other J'red decomps like the 90? I'm just wondering why a 'conventional' decomp wouldn't work if it was the same hole thread size......if it's a proprietary size, damn.

Kevin

Not sure.......I'll check when I get to the shop tomorrow......don't think there are any options other than plugging. I have a NOS 111S P&C and NOS 90 and 910 P&Cs....I'll look them over and report back....

 

[Real1shepherd]

Not sure.......I'll check when I get to the shop tomorrow......don't think there are any options other than plugging. I have a NOS 111S P&C and NOS 90 and 910 P&Cs....I'll look them over and report back....

The 910 and the 90 are the same size. I bought plugs from that Chinese outfit on ebay that fit the 90/910. They also sell decomps themselves...have no idea what their quality is like. I'm trying to source the correct size metric crush washers for these decomp plugs. The hole size is m10x1.0

I have a 90 jug that someone put a flush metric Allen plug in. I supposed with the correct sealant, this is also an option.....wouldn't be my choice. There seems to be any number of copper metric crush washer kits out there. The crush washer for the 90/910 is 10mm(ID)x14mm(OD)x1mm(thick). I suspect that 90/910 decomp is a common one for J'reds and maybe Husky and others as well....

Kevin

 

[Real1shepherd]

"Very popular"...maybe...never saw one in the woods myself. This one is the two piece top. Notice how the full wrap handle terminates in the air on the one side. I don't know about the 111S, but on the 80/90 there was an actual AV mount that let the handle curve back and connect to the saw body. I have it on my 80 and I was just recently sent one NOS as part of a package deal. This mount was almost impossible to find in the 80's...the dealer back then told me I got one of the last ones in NA. I've seen enough of those full wraps cut like that to think that maybe he was right.

Anyway, a very nice 111S and has a factory subcontracted dawg:

Supposedly, the way the Swedes mounted the rear handle to the gas tank causes most of them to leak, in time. Sounds expensive these days, to say the least. Not trying to run down the saw, just wondering what happened with the generally sound Swede engineering.

Kevin

 

[Cantdog]

"Very popular"...maybe...never saw one in the woods myself. This one is the two piece top. Notice how the full wrap handle terminates in the air on the one side. I don't know about the 111S, but on the 80/90 there was an actual AV mount that let the handle curve back and connect to the saw body. I have it on my 80 and I was just recently sent one NOS as part of a package deal. This mount was almost impossible to find in the 80's...the dealer back then told me I got one of the last ones in NA. I've seen enough of those full wraps cut like that to think that maybe he was right.

Anyway, a very nice 111S and has a factory subcontracted dawg:

Supposedly, the way the Swedes mounted the rear handle to the gas tank causes most of them to leak, in time. Sounds expensive these days, to say the least. Not trying to run down the saw, just wondering what happened with the generally sound Swede engineering.

Kevin

The 111 was a whole different species.......not in any way designed like the other Jonsereds of it's time....actually more like the later Husky/Jonsered 6xx series with the fuel tank incorporated into the trigger handle and isolated from the motor, but even different from them as well. They are all mag......the fuel and oil tank is completely separate from the motor which is isolated from them by AV mounts. The tank is two piece like an engine case....the trigger handle is two piece and hard bolted to the tanks with two bolts. I have not seen or heard what you are speaking of....but that's not surprising....perhaps two bolts were not enough. I have seen damaged fuel tanks on a couple but that was on the bottom......the tank seems thinner over all than say the bottom of an 80 or 90. Think the purpose of this set up was to eliminate "boiling" gas and vapor lock issues associated with the saws with the fuel tanks incorporated directly into the engine cases.

 

[Real1shepherd]

The 111 was a whole different species.......not in any way designed like the other Jonsereds of it's time....actually more like the later Husky/Jonsered 6xx series with the fuel tank incorporated into the trigger handle and isolated from the motor, but even different from them as well. They are all mag......the fuel and oil tank is completely separate from the motor which is isolated from them by AV mounts. The tank is two piece like an engine case....the trigger handle is two piece and hard bolted to the tanks with two bolts. I have not seen or heard what you are speaking of....but that's not surprising....perhaps two bolts were not enough. I have seen damaged fuel tanks on a couple but that was on the bottom......the tank seems thinner over all than say the bottom of an 80 or 90. Think the purpose of this set up was to eliminate "boiling" gas and vapor lock issues associated with the saws with the fuel tanks incorporated directly into the engine cases.

It's not what I was saying....it was from a long discussion in AS on folks who owned and worked many 111S'. I was just throwing that out there. It could be the tanks leaked because some owners have the bad habit of just throwing a heavy saw like that in the back of a truck.

Here's one discussion on the tank:http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/111s-leaky-gas-any-thoughts.92686/

As far as re-epoxy the gas tank.....did that with the 2100...cleaned it, etched it and used a commercial grade epoxy. Held great for about six months, then leaked again. Good luck with that process.

Kevin

 

[Cantdog]

It's not what I was saying....it was from a long discussion in AS on folks who owned and worked many 111S'. I was just throwing that out there. It could be the tanks leaked because some owners have the bad habit of just throwing a heavy saw like that in the back of a truck.

Here's one discussion on the tank:http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/111s-leaky-gas-any-thoughts.92686/

As far as re-epoxy the gas tank.....did that with the 2100...cleaned it, etched it and used a commercial grade epoxy. Held great for about six months, then leaked again. Good luck with that process.

Kevin

Ahh...just read that thread....makes sense I guess.....the two handle bolts do hold the tank halves together in that area and would take quite a bit more stress just from everyday use than any of the other tank bolts...if they get loose I can a chance to leak for sure.......and as you said very hard to know what kind of abuse/neglect the saw could have endured........something to check on mine...Thanks for the heads up Kevin.....

Now about the decomp on the 111s compared to the 90/910.....the 111s vents out the bottom through a much smaller hole then the threaded part......of course the 90 vents out the two holes at the top....the threads seem to be the same. Now you might be able to run a tap down through the hole and use an allen head set screw to close this off and use the 90 type decomp.........might work....but of course it would not be "correct"..........

 

[Real1shepherd]

Ahh...just read that thread....makes sense I guess.....the two handle bolts do hold the tank halves together in that area and would take quite a bit more stress just from everyday use than any of the other tank bolts...if they get loose I can a chance to leak for sure.......and as you said very hard to know what kind of abuse/neglect the saw could have endured........something to check on mine...Thanks for the heads up Kevin.....

Now about the decomp on the 111s compared to the 90/910.....the 111s vents out the bottom through a much smaller hole then the threaded part......of course the 90 vents out the two holes at the top....the threads seem to be the same. Now you might be able to run a tap down through the hole and use an allen head set screw to close this off and use the 90 type decomp.........might work....but of course it would not be "correct"..........

Yeah, it just seems like something to be aware of in the 111S 'weakness' category. I can tell you from bitter, painful experience, to re-epoxy a gas tank is a bitter pill to swallow. And good luck to anyone who tries it and actually uses their saw hard. I think because of that I have three spare, solid 2100 tanks that just need some thread holes mended.

I think I'd plug the 111S(if I had a bad decomp) before I actually altered the decomp ports to that degree....just because of the collector value of that saw. More and more collectors are gonna want it bone 'stock' for the big money. Probably be a bear to start though without a decomp....lol!

Kevin

 

[Cantdog]

Yeah, it just seems like something to be aware of in the 111S 'weakness' category. I can tell you from bitter, painful experience, to re-epoxy a gas tank is a bitter pill to swallow. And good luck to anyone who tries it and actually uses their saw hard. I think because of that I have three spare, solid 2100 tanks that just need some thread holes mended.

I think I'd plug the 111S(if I had a bad decomp) before I actually altered the decomp ports to that degree....just because of the collector value of that saw. More and more collectors are gonna want it bone 'stock' for the big money. Probably be a bear to start though without a decomp....lol!

Kevin

Well ya can't plug it 'cause it's open on the bottom......look down the threaded hole and see right out through.....even to plug it you'd have to tap and plug the exhaust hole first......and if you did that I think you could use the 90/910 decomp as easy as a plug....

 

[Cantdog]

Ahh...just read that thread....makes sense I guess.....the two handle bolts do hold the tank halves together in that area and would take quite a bit more stress just from everyday use than any of the other tank bolts...if they get loose I can a chance to leak for sure.......and as you said very hard to know what kind of abuse/neglect the saw could have endured........something to check on mine...Thanks for the heads up Kevin.....

Now about the decomp on the 111s compared to the 90/910.....the 111s vents out the bottom through a much smaller hole then the threaded part......of course the 90 vents out the two holes at the top....the threads seem to be the same. Now you might be able to run a tap down through the hole and use an allen head set screw to close this off and use the 90 type decomp.........might work....but of course it would not be "correct"..........

OK I was wrong in my description of the way the 111 trigger handle bolts up.....handle bolts don't hold the back of the tank together.....it has it's own short bolts holding the two halves together. The handle covers these bolts up so they can't be checked for tightness unless you take the trigger handle apart. The handle halves bolt to the tank with four bolts....2 on each side...so the tank holds the handle halves together as they don't directly bolt together themselves......still easy to see why a leak might occur.......

 

[Real1shepherd]

Well ya can't plug it 'cause it's open on the bottom......look down the threaded hole and see right out through.....even to plug it you'd have to tap and plug the exhaust hole first......and if you did that I think you could use the 90/910 decomp as easy as a plug....

OK, I get it now how the 111S decomp works.

I dunno...these saws have extreme collector potential if original....and they're probably going to go higher in the next five yrs. Probably around a grand for a really nice one. If I ever seen one around local for $300 or so, I'm grabbin' it!

Kevin

 

[Zero_sum]

OK, I get it now how the 111S decomp works.

I dunno...these saws have extreme collector potential if original....and they're probably going to go higher in the next five yrs. Probably around a grand for a really nice one. If I ever seen one around local for $300 or so, I'm grabbin' it!

Kevin

At that price.... you better.

 

[Real1shepherd]

There seem to be a fair number of folks owning and wanting to own the 111S. It seems to me that the logical thing to do would be to pool all the resources of existing parts and knowledge about this fine saw. And maybe there's an interested engineer or two out there that could make use of 3D printing for some much needed parts. I've read about guys that have been waiting yrs for some part on this saw to turn up.

Kevin

 

[WoodDean]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-jon...318?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item20e6940efe

Robin . . . . . . . NOS Dawgs for your 111s at $25 in case your interested.