Jonsered Chainsaws

[Cantdog]

Here is a golden opportunity..........if you had enough gold.....LOL!!!



http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Jon...619512?hash=item1c64a500b8:g:EJEAAOSwtUtXBVVh

 

[Real1shepherd]

Wow, no jug & slug for $249.....before shipping??? Glad I got over wanting one...lol!

Surely that 'T' plate on the bottom is not OE??

Kevin

 

[Cantdog]

Yeah at $300 to the door it ain't much......missing a lot of hard to find parts......though I suppose if this had parts you desperately needed It might be endurable....I would like to have it but not at that price.....top cover actually looks pretty good and maybe the crank but the case is broked by the carb adjustment area...clutch cover has a piece missing out of the top...and yeah.....that plate on the bottom of the tank is not a stock item......it makes that running 111S Leeha tried to sell me for $350 look pretty darn reasonable!!!! It showed the about the same wear as this one but without the breakage....and had all the parts....

 

[Real1shepherd]

Makes you wonder what that bottom plate is hiding. Granted it does have the cover and those in decent shape are next to impossible to find. It's definitely a Trojan part's horse. Somebody will scoop it up just for the parts and take a gamble, I'm sure. Like I said, glad I'm over wanting one of theses...lol!

Kevin

 

[briantutt]

Even though I am detailing my progress on a separate thread I have a question that I know someone on this thread will be best able to answer. I have one 62cc and two 62cc saws in the works. Husky 162, 266 and 268. My question is this: what is the best rim 7 or 8 tooth? I am putting 20 inch .050 3/8 chain on all three. I am wondering because the basket case saws came setup both ways so now I am curious.

Brian

 

[Real1shepherd]

Conventional wisdom says the 8 tooth on 3/8" chain will cut faster...given your saw has the power to not bog down. There are folks that like either way and argue about it continiously. I run .404, 7 tooth chisel, so I'm probably not the best person to tell you what the smaller saws run best.

Kevin

 

[taplinhill]

With 20" bars I would go with a 7 pin. The 8 pin works well with 16" bars in softwood. I used to cut pine and spruce slabs to length with 670's and 630's set up that way and it was very effective. It's funny because I just changed to a 7 pin on one 630 because I switched to an 18" bar. You had to run that one with a feather touch in hardwood and now you can lean on it a little.

 

[briantutt]

Okay thanks for the reply. The 8 pin seems too big based on my other setups but I have never experimented and wanted some actual advice like this.

Brian

 

[Cantdog]

I would say a 7 pin on the 162 and 268 and perhaps an 8 pin on the 266XP since it should make a tad more power than your open port 268......but the seven pin set up would work fine for all three.......I run an 8 pin on my 61/268XP conversion but it is ported and squish set.....it doesn't slow down much in any local wood with a 20" X 3/8...

 

[briantutt]

I have one good 7 pin and one good 8 pin. I did not gasket delete any of the 3. I could try both on the 266 and see what I see. The open vs closed port will be interesting to see if it makes a noticeable difference. The 268 has more airflow capability on the intake so we will see what happens.

Brian

 

[albert]

I would say a 7 pin on the 162 and 268 and perhaps an 8 pin on the 266XP since it should make a tad more power than your open port 268......but the seven pin set up would work fine for all three.......I run an 8 pin on my 61/268XP conversion but it is ported and squish set.....it doesn't slow down much in any local wood with a 20" X 3/8...

I got a decent 268 open port that over the winter. I put a new piston in it. Deleted the base gasket and only ran one tank thru it. 20" bar and chain buried in 26" oak. 7 pin runs very well, hard to slow it down. May not be a screamer but held about 10k in the cut. Could these have as good or better torque than the xp?

 

[Cantdog]

I got a decent 268 open port that over the winter. I put a new piston in it. Deleted the base gasket and only ran one tank thru it. 20" bar and chain buried in 26" oak. 7 pin runs very well, hard to slow it down. May not be a screamer but held about 10k in the cut. Could these have as good or better torque than the xp?

I would say no.....the 61/268XP I mentioned I built first with the Gilardoni P&C ported and squish set .....it ran very strong and the craftsmanship of the Gilardoni was beautiful.....castings were better looking than the XP Mahl cyls......but I replaced it with the Mahl 268XP cyl and a Meteor piston ported and squish set at 0.020" same as I had with the Gilardoni....quite a big difference when compared that way on the same saw.......I broke the XP set up in by plunge cutting a Carlton 20" straight in the end grain of dry 20" spruce making Swedish Candles....made 10 in a row....that would be 50 full length bore cuts......warmed her up pretty good....the power difference is very noticeable. Again not to say the open port isn't a strong saw.....I loved it....good stuff...

 

[Hoggwood]

Finally put the rebuilt 630 into some wood. A lot of new parts into it. 7 pin on a 16" in some Douglas. Probably running a tad rich for a handful of tanks or so. Very responsive/tight. I have a 20" and 22" bar that I could swap on there. I figure a healthy 630 and a 20" bar ought to work just dandy in the Fir and Larch firewood around here.

Impressive series.

 

[Cantdog]

Finally put the rebuilt 630 into some wood. A lot of new parts into it. 7 pin on a 16" in some Douglas. Probably running a tad rich for a handful of tanks or so. Very responsive/tight. I have a 20" and 22" bar that I could swap on there. I figure a healthy 630 and a 20" bar ought to work just dandy in the Fir and Larch firewood around here.

Impressive series.

Congrats on the rebuild!! 630 is an awesome saw......it'll run a 20" fine...my 630 West Coast runs a 24" with a skipchain..cuts OK but rather nose heavy.....the very best combo for these saws handling wise is an 18" with full comp chain.....balance is right there....perfect. But if you need more bar it'll run the 20 fine....I've never tried a 22" but I feel the 24" is pushing it.......need to try the WC with a full comp and see how that goes.....not that impressed with the skipchain....

 

[WoodDean]

Here is a golden opportunity..........if you had enough gold.....LOL!!!

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Jon...619512?hash=item1c64a500b8:g:EJEAAOSwtUtXBVVh

That's the same saw that was for saw on ebay a while back. The pics of the case were so poor I questioned if it was 111s or not and the plate on the botom wasn't mentioned. Glad I dodged that one, there aren't any parts on it that I need.
The rewind was listed separately and I bought it. If you look back a couple pages you'll see my link and the pics.

 

[briantutt]

Worm wheel for oiler question. The larger teeth on the one is how 3 of the 4 I have are the engage the clutch drum nicely. The odd one has much less wide pads so the fit is sloppy. Will this matter or just run it?

Brian

 

[Real1shepherd]

Not sure if you can just 'get by' with this. On the gear oiler in the Husky 2100, we would replace parts if I saw even the slightest bit of wear on anything. But that's in a commercial setting where a down, failed main saw could cost serious $$$. However, slop is never good when gears and rings mesh.

Kevin

 

[Real1shepherd]

Might have garage cancer on the bottom...doesn't show a pic. Good for parts probably....looks like it sat for a looooong time. Price decent if it stays low.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Jonsereds-621-Chainsaw

Here's a 'seasoned' 910 with a near useless dawg on it. Lady selling it from her brother's estate...wonder if she can really start it like she indicates. Priced just 'OK' right now for a running 910(if you can believe that) w/B&C and free shipping.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/910-E-Jonsered-chainsaw

Kevin

 

[leecopland]

Well finally got my 90 repaired. With the help of Kevin who sent me drill bits, a steel insert and the right sized tap. I was able to drill and re-tap one of the bar stud holes. It had a helicoil fitted which was no working at all. Now I have a saw with two good bar studs, the replacement went in a little bit more than the other but no bother. Pics show a 20" B&C which both need some work. We still have snow on the ground so it's not been in wood yet.

 

[briantutt]

Looks great!

Brian