Jonsered Chainsaws

[Real1shepherd]

Did some research Brian.....some 162s and the very early 266s came with these grommets but they were discontinued very quickly in all later saws of this family including all of the 6XX Jonsered....I know for a fact my 1987 61 never had a grommet as I acquired the saw from my next door neighbor having only used two tanks of fuel through it. It does have the fuel line with integral grommet that fits in the tank...this too, was discontinued on all later saws and the tanks sized for regular fuel line. This is a very long lived family with many changes along the way...most were in a positive direction. Unless you have your heart set on using a grommet in the case to assure the saw is "correct" from a collectors standpoint I would not give it any more consideration as Husqvarna eliminated it very quickly as an unnecessary part that only complicated fuel line changes. As I said earlier probably why you don't see them for sale.......like the "Thin Ring" set up......done for a very short time and proved not worth the effort.....due to failures and problems with them sticking ...never see them for sale anywhere either....

The Husky crowd covets the thin ring pistons on the 2100 like it's The Holy Grail. I can tell you for a fact that when we were logging and figured out why some 2100 saws weren't lasting the yr, it was attributable to the thin ring design. And if Husky hadn't had problems with them, they would have made them standard all through the 2100/2101 production run. If you can find thin rings and a thin ring piston you might pay up to $400 for them. To me, that's a lot of nothing.

Kevin

 

[Chris J.]

I am thinking find a blank 12mm and cut a hole in it or

worst case gorilla tape around fuel line.

Brian

I've used Gorilla tape for some repairs around the house, but I'm not sure about using it on a chainsaw where gas & oil might affect it.

 

[briantutt]

I've used Gorilla tape for some repairs around the house, but I'm not sure about using it on a chainsaw where gas & oil might affect it.

That is my reservation as well. There is an odd diamond shaped area on one of the saws were the kill switch wire comes through into the carb area. No grommet that I can see every existed. Either they just intended that as an air intake or I was thinking to use tape to block that opening too.

Brian

 

[Cantdog]

Well on the 162, 61 and 266 and all the same family Jonsereds there is no special provision provided for air to get to the air filter/carb as in the 272 and 268 which have a dedicated air intake horn....intake just relies on "air infiltration" from everywhere...especially if you open the winter shutter in the top cover......there will be dust entering the airbox/carb area anyway.....another thing to consider is when using a grommet on these fuel lines you are concentrating all movement due to the AV flexing to a only half inch or so of fuel line between the tank and case rather than spread more or less evenly along the 2 1/2" inches of fuel line between the tank opening and carb. I have never seen any problems with chaffing between the holes and fuel lines on either the single fuel line type saws or the later double line saws....the case holes are simply to large compared to the OD of the fuel line.

 

[briantutt]

Well on the 162, 61 and 266 and all the same family Jonsereds there is no special provision provided for air to get to the air filter/carb as in the 272 and 268 which have a dedicated air intake horn....intake just relies on "air infiltration" from everywhere...especially if you open the winter shutter in the top cover......there will be dust entering the airbox/carb area anyway.....another thing to consider is when using a grommet on these fuel lines you are concentrating all movement due to the AV flexing to a only half inch or so of fuel line between the tank and case rather than spread more or less evenly along the 2 1/2" inches of fuel line between the tank opening and carb. I have never seen any problems with chaffing between the holes and fuel lines on either the single fuel line type saws or the later double line saws....the case holes are simply to large compared to the OD of the fuel line.

Well, maybe that is an argument for not using a grommet at all on the 162 and 266. Certainly makes it easier. I will put them together and see what it looks like with no grommet.

Brian

 

[Real1shepherd]

Well, maybe that is an argument for not using a grommet at all on the 162 and 266. Certainly makes it easier. I will put them together and see what it looks like with no grommet.

Brian

If there were saws from the factory with no grommet at all, I would certainly go that route. It's unlikely you'll get an inordinate amount of sawdust in the airbox just from that one hole. No problem with chafing like Robin said, go with it. And BTW Gorilla tape or anything like that, will not hold up in that environ and become a sticky mess. How many of us have seen PO's use of electric tape in those applications(including the wrap handle) and it's a gooey mess??!

Kevin

 

[fossil]

I am thinking find a blank 12mm and cut a hole in it or worst case gorilla tape around fuel line.

Brian

You might try burning a hole through with a hot nail / drill. Start small and work up. If the hole is a little large use teflon tape. The Mac guys use that on loose after market fuel lines and it stands up very well.

 

[Cantdog]

Boy these things seem to be increasing in value daily!!!

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Jonsereds-90-chainsaw-/281989133024?hash=item41a7dcb2e0:g:USIAAOSwnTJW~xhN

 

[MarcS]

Boy these things seem to be increasing in value daily!!!

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Jonsereds-90-chainsaw-/281989133024?hash=item41a7dcb2e0:g:USIAAOSwnTJW~xhN

I'm swamped with work at the shop but if I get caught up in the next week or so and these saws are still available I'll arrange with the seller to see if I can check them out in person.

 

[Real1shepherd]

I don't know if this is a trend because the the 111S is so rare and usually unavailable....or the 90 is finally getting its due. Hard to say and this is only a few high prices 90's recently...need to see if they really sell at those prices. And if they do, you know they're going to a collector, not out in the field. I don't really care one way or another EXCEPT when it trickles down to ridiculous prices for NOS and used parts.

I've seen this before in other hobbies...like when all the '67 Corvettes got spoken for and grossly price bloated..they moved down to two door Novas etc. Whenever the Holy Grail model of something becomes unobtainable, collectors move down the ladder.

Kevin

 

[MarcS]

Hard to say, I'm guessing the guy is a collector himself and knows how rare they are. As a younger guy I just like to see these older saws as they were before the woods took their toll since I never saw them in the dealerships. Putting a value on clean old saws is tough that's for sure.

 

[fossil]

I've seen that up here with saws. A seller will put a very high price on a saw and then every doink with one puts one up at a suitably high price. Typically few bite and the price comes down eventually.

 

[leecopland]

Hope so Tim, prices are silly at the moment. $220 for a Homelite Super Mini!

 

[Real1shepherd]

Hard to say, I'm guessing the guy is a collector himself and knows how rare they are. As a younger guy I just like to see these older saws as they were before the woods took their toll since I never saw them in the dealerships. Putting a value on clean old saws is tough that's for sure.

Well, let's say he's on a fishing expedition. There have always been a fair number of 90's out there to choose from, albeit 'seasoned', but good woods saws with a bit of work...hell, I have a couple like that. I never had any trouble finding 90's, but then again, they weren't real pretty....except for the 'Arkansas' 90. That's the lowest hr, prettiest/original saw I have so far. It's in the middle of my avatar.

As far as value on older J'reds....it's whatever you can get. eBay may be the last place you wanna establish 'value' and it rarely reflects craigslist and the like .....and usually if a guy has a high priced, decent saw on craigslist et al, then he went on eBay first to see what they were auctioning/asking.

Kevin

 

[Cantdog]

Well, let's say he on a fishing expedition. There have always been a fair number of 90's out there to choose from, albeit 'seasoned', but good woods saws with a bit of work...hell, I have a couple like that. I never had any trouble finding 90's, but then again, they weren't real pretty....except for the 'Arkansas' 90. That's the lowest hr, prettiest/original saw I have so far. It's in the middle of my avatar.

As far as value on older J'reds....it's whatever you can get. eBay may be the last place you wanna establish 'value' and it rarely reflects craigslist and the like .....and usually if a guy has a high priced, decent saw on craigslist et al, then he went on eBay first to see what they were auctioning/asking.

Kevin

Well said......the "ebay" value is generally way high on all these saws......I've watched a 49SP sell for $350.00...(I paid $249.95 in 1977 for the saw, grease gun, scrench. manual and a hat). This is because it reaches many more people than craigslist or other types of advertising.....generally speaking any true "Jonsereds" is a collectable rather than just a tool like a more or less current model used saw, like say a Husky 359....not to say most can't get the job done or may even outlast the more current model, the NLA parts issue is the killer for anyone having to depend on the saw to eat. As with any "Collectable" it's a sellers market and if you happen to have a near perfect example.....you can name the price and if you persevere it will sell.......collectors can justify putting money into a hobby before they will pay an inflated price for a tool they actually plan to use. It's the "WANT VS. need" thing.....Just picked up a 90 muffler off ebay this morning...$16 to my door....very few dents but solid and in good shape with bolts and bolt lock plate.....I may need it.....but mostly I just wanted it...LOL!!!

 

[briantutt]

Here is the 162SE tank and case mated without grommet. The fuel line is towards the back and when I flex the tank forward the fuel line moves to the center of the hole. Little or no movement backward. I am going to leave it with no grommet as I think it will not chafe.

Brian

 

[Real1shepherd]

I think you will be fine, Brian. Just make sure there's only enough slack to the carb so that when the tank moves around, it doesn't pull on the carb connection.......

Kevin

 

[briantutt]

+1 thanks for the tip. Do these pre molded fuel lines need to be trimmed? The end is slightly larger like is was meant to reinforce the barbed fitting area.

Brian

 

[Real1shepherd]

Back in the day, no, you didn't trim...it was made to fit and yes thicker at the barb end for the carb.

Kevin

 

[Chris J.]

This CL ad might be of interest to someone here, Jonsered 2153 (two of them??, the ad isn't clear). I'm up to my ears in 50cc class saws, which includes three very nice, or at least very solid, models--a Husky 346XP & a 51, and a Solo 651SP.

FTR ...no, they're not my saws, and I don't know the owner.

http://houston.craigslist.org/tls/5523571304.html