Jonsered Chainsaws

[Cantdog]

Come to find out the 2051 is the fastest stock tuned Jonsered (s) ever made.....well.....my Jonsered tuning guide I got from Bob (Spike60) lists all the saws from the Jonsereds 36 up through to the Jonsered 2255S.....

It tunes to......wait for it........Fourteen Thousand Eight Hundred RPM!!!!!!!

That's quite zippy...indeed....

 

[Heffalump]

 

[Heffalump]

That is pretty fast.

Does the manual spec a bar length for that speed?

 

[Cantdog]

Might as well post this up here so everyone can know what their saws are supposed to run at WOT......

 

[Cantdog]

That is pretty fast.

Does the manual spec a bar length for that speed?

No because it really doesn't matter what length B&C is on the saw as it is the no load speed at WOT.

 

[Heffalump]

You are the man, Robin!!

 

[Chris J.]

Thanks for sharing that, Robin.

 

[Cantdog]

Thanks for sharing that, Robin.

No problem Chris......not sure why I didn't post it earlier......good info to have access to...

 

[heimannm]

Amazing isn't it that 10,000 RPM is considered "slow"...

The 930 turning only 11,500 or so in cut.



Mark

 

[Real1shepherd]

I question some of that chart...why would there be a significant RPM difference between the 80 & the 90? Same points ignition, same carb, only difference being the size of the piston and corresponding cylinder...same stroke. And one of the virtues of the 910 was its free revving properties...almost 2,00RPM slower than the 920/930......that don't sound right.

Kevin

 

[Hoggwood]

Curious where an early 630 would fit in RPM wise.

I know the later shop manuals state 13000 or so. Is this the same number going back to 1982? I am well south of that going by ear/comfort on my early ones. Kind of used the specs on carb setting guidelines from a 162. L around 1 and H 3/4.

Probably should get a tach one these days. My ears aren't as adept at working on the higher RPM stuff.

 

[Cantdog]

I believe that 13,000 is correct for all stock 630 versions.....but as they stated in the page I posted they can be set 500-1000 lower for break in and perhaps better left that way for some customers. Some guys always set 500 below spec. The crankshaft bearings are the same for all 6XX saws and will safely spin past 15,000 without hesitation. I had a 630 Super II I ported before I owned a tach......PB came down one day with a bunch of saws and we had a grand time. He brought a new to him 630 which he set up at 12,500 with his tach.......I had tuned mine only by ear but since there was a tach handy I put it my saw......we were turning 14,400 and four stroking nicely. I turned it down to about 13,200, any lower and it was way to rich....we ran both 630s at the same time in the same sized wood.....mine ran out of gas when his was still half full!! I did some questioning of a couple of the known porters and found once modified stock specs were out the window so I turned it back up to where it had been and it didn't burn hardly any more gas than a stock one.......but the pile of wood on the ground was bigger. I sold that saw, it has been in the firewood business the last five years still going strong. It was a totally beat freebee when it came to me.....always called it my "Ugly Duckling Saw".

 

[Homelitexl903]

Question for the Jonsereds experts. Acres site says the Oregon mount is D024 for 10mm Jreds. It also says some of my homelites take Oregon D196. Will the D196 fit my jreds without modification? Thats all I can find new from baileys.

 

[Real1shepherd]

Some yrs ago I bought a Carlton bar from Baileys that was supposed to be "easy" to modify for the 10mm J'red mount. It wasn't easy at all and I wouldn't do it again. Especially given that 10mm mount J'red bars turn up on eBay in very decent shape and sometimes, just a little surface rust on a NOS bar. As I've mentioned before in here, I wound up with a bunch of old(original to me), Oregon bars that take that half-moon rivet, sprocket tip. In .404 they are nearly impossible to find.

AS and the 'pig' site members are holding onto 10mm J'red mount bars as well.....in fact that may be your best source. Also(and I'm not getting into this again with Sawtroll), in my experience there were many large mount Husky bars made that bolt right onto the J'red 10mm mount saws. There's only 1mm difference anyway and so I figure some are just sloppier than others.

Kevin

 

[Cantdog]

I question some of that chart...why would there be a significant RPM difference between the 80 & the 90? Same points ignition, same carb, only difference being the size of the piston and corresponding cylinder...same stroke. And one of the virtues of the 910 was its free revving properties...almost 2,00RPM slower than the 920/930......that don't sound right.

Kevin

I question some of that chart...why would there be a significant RPM difference between the 80 & the 90? Same points ignition, same carb, only difference being the size of the piston and corresponding cylinder...same stroke. And one of the virtues of the 910 was its free revving properties...almost 2,00RPM slower than the 920/930......that don't sound right.

Kevin

This chart came from Jonsered itself......I got it from a dealer.....but I know what you mean.....nor does it sound very logical that the 90 should turn faster than the newer 910. I would guess that the 90 being the most powerful version/iteration of the 80 so it would be logical that the port timing and and transfers would be a bit more advanced. Same would probably be true with the 930 being the most powerful iteration of the 910.......from my experience with porting, rpm can be increased by simply raising the exhaust port roof......however there is a constant balance in this, you raise the rpm you lose torque......you lower the cyl/port you lose rpm but gain torque
You get the same thing going from the 50MM 266XP Husky to the 50MM 268XP......the 268XP has larger transfers but the same bore, stroke and piston and makes more rpm and torque than the 266XP...when they state a specific max rpm for a certain model saw it is just what they have decided is where that saw makes the best cutting power which is a combination of chain speed and torque enough to pull the recommended length of chain through the wood. That is my best guess anyway....

 

[Real1shepherd]

Well, I've got a probe tach still new in the box. If I ever get back to my saws, I'll post some RPM readings if I think they are running right and leaned out for pro use.

 

[Cantdog]

Well, I've got a probe tach still new in the box. If I ever get back to my saws, I'll post some RPM readings if I think they are running right and leaned out for pro use.

That would be an interesting comparison between the chart and your tried and true settings...

 

[Cantdog]

Bob gave me a couple other pages of Joserfacts that I'll try to post up soon.....one is a price list from 1980 covering the 361 through the 111s and all offered bar options and prices and the other is Technical Data from the same time, covering saws from the 361 through the 111s. Funny......the price list includes the 111s but no prices given at all on that saw....to bad.... be interesting to know what they sold for in 1980.....

 

[ray benson]

1982 Jonsereds 111s MSRP $695

 

[heimannm]

Ray - I'll take 2 at that price please, do you take cash or credit...

Mark