Jonsered Chainsaws

[fossil]

I'm wondering if the steel bars were all ended without attaching and the aluminum ones were designed for that mount. Maybe that's why the aluminum ones were a short run and are scarcer.

I only have one full-wrap that hadn't been butchered and now it's cracked because of some fool helper that threw a bunch of posts on top of the saw.

Kevin

I've had really good luck with this stuff for repairing aluminum. You would need something hotter than a propane torch to solder it as the aluminum carries the heat away so fast. I've repaired a handle bar and a butchered cylinder intake mount with it.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Bernzomatic-AL3-Aluminum-Brazing-and-Welding-Rods-334491/203710179

I use this stuff.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Bernzomatic-14-1-oz-Map-Pro-Cylinder-332477/203226566

 

[shawn022]

I remember that 81 you linked to. About that time, maybe a year later there was a rash of them on eBay.

 

[shawn022]

While we are talking 80's, does anyone have the Oregon drum and sprocket kit number? I tried looking it up in the 2015 catalog but the 80 was no longer listed.

 

[Cantdog]

The 81 has been discussed/researched on here before. It seems they were only available on the west coast......interesting comp numbers on those two saws...the 81 may possibly had the cyl decked a few thousndths from the factory to up the comp........I know that the later 630 and 670 "West Coast" edition models came stock with a full wrap, a velocity stack with a K&N filter and a special thinner cyl base gasket to tighten up the squish (upping comp).......but I don't think you could make a much thinner gasket than the stock ones on the old Jonsereds......this is just a thought.....no facts to back it up...but there is no visible difference between the 801 and the 81 except the sticker......there has to be more to it than just the stickers....

 

[Real1shepherd]

I'm wondering if the steel bars were all ended without attaching and the aluminum ones were designed for that mount. Maybe that's why the aluminum ones were a short run and are scarcer.



I've had really good luck with this stuff for repairing aluminum. You would need something hotter than a propane torch to solder it as the aluminum carries the heat away so fast. I've repaired a handle bar and a butchered cylinder intake mount with it.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Bernzomatic-AL3-Aluminum-Brazing-and-Welding-Rods-334491/203710179

I use this stuff.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Bernzomatic-14-1-oz-Map-Pro-Cylinder-332477/203226566

Yeah, I bought some of that stuff at a fair...from a demo using it to repair aluminum lawn furniture with a propane torch. But that was thin aluminum. Yeah, I used my B tank(acetylene) plumbing rig to use those sticks. You have to heat just the surface and then pool with the stick...any heat on the stick and it immediately falls apart. I actually hadn't thought about that...better than taking it over to the community college. The machine shops would charge me a regular shop rate. That's not happening. I can get some of that heat isolation clay from a welding shop and just isolate the crack. Thanks for reminding me I had some of those sticks...lol!

As far as the steel full-wraps being cut and the aluminum not....I don't think so and I say this because the steel full-wraps that I have are crudely cut off...like with a hacksaw. I see that and assume that they were once whole full-wraps like my aluminum. And the aluminum ones had that black stuff on there that wasn't really a coating and wasn't really a paint....probably some kind of anodized process, with sections of the raw aluminum remaining in places.

Kevin

 

[Real1shepherd]

While we are talking 80's, does anyone have the Oregon drum and sprocket kit number? I tried looking it up in the 2015 catalog but the 80 was no longer listed.

They are available if you go to the right place...and the correct Oregon one has a step 'hump' on the top....not flat across. Someone sent me the wrong one that was just flat, but could be made to work with spacers....just not on my saw....lol. I see them fairly regularly on the bay. You won't probably get your best price that way.

If you like, I could see if there is a # on the drums I have. You can't miss them, they all have that 'hump'.

Kevin

 

[Real1shepherd]

The 81 has been discussed/researched on here before. It seems they were only available on the west coast......interesting comp numbers on those two saws...the 81 may possibly had the cyl decked a few thousndths from the factory to up the comp........I know that the later 630 and 670 "West Coast" edition models came stock with a full wrap, a velocity stack with a K&N filter and a special thinner cyl base gasket to tighten up the squish (upping comp).......but I don't think you could make a much thinner gasket than the stock ones on the old Jonsereds......this is just a thought.....no facts to back it up...but there is no visible difference between the 801 and the 81 except the sticker......there has to be more to it than just the stickers....

Yeah, I'm baffled by any difference between the 81 and the 801. That base gasket is hella thin....don't see any decking being done or fudge room there. Maybe the 81 model designation insured you got a full-wrap.....but that doesn't really make any sense because you could get the 80/90 with the full-wrap option. I'm open to suggestions on that saw anomaly.....kinda be nice to have one...something different.

Kevin

 

[fossil]

There's one or more on e-bay under Oregon 17344. It looks like the OEM drum on mine.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Oregon-1734...f7d0728&pid=100033&rk=1&rkt=8&sd=322128715867

 

[Real1shepherd]

The one spare I could find says #522804....doesn't say Oregon but Jonsered...but made in Canada and so it's definitely an Oregon drum.

That definitely looks the part Tim, got the hump. I'll look when I have more time to see what's actually in my work 80. I also took pics of the full-wrap mount close up. Post later tonight...GG.

Kevin

 

[fossil]

Mine says Jonsereds but no PN on it. The trouble with e-bay and old parts; a lot of them are misidentified.

All this talk found me getting out the 801 and tuning it properly and cut six or so cookies.

The chain on it could be better. I'll have to fix it on the grinder but, that saw has a lot of power.

It would certainly eat an 82cc Homelite for a snack.

 

[shawn022]

I have a spare oem off of my 910 with the same number Kevin posted. Another oem I believe came off a 920 is 523008.
That 17344 looks right. I saw that awhile ago and it's the reason I asked about the part number. I believe the 17344 is actually a homelite sprocket. It may work though.

Another number I came up with is 28563 which is the 920 etc sprocket. Being that Kevin's 80 sprocket and my 910 sprocket matched this may be the right one.

 

[shawn022]

Just did a quick search. Chainsawr sells a windsor drum kit for the 80/90/920/930etc that replaces Oregon 28563. I'd still love to know if that 17344 would work.

 

[fossil]

I think he said he was going to look at the one on the 80 when he got a moment. There are lots of screw ups with old sprockets for sale. It would be nice to have access to an Oregon catalog from the mid '80's

 

[Real1shepherd]

Quick reply until I have more time...Oregon 17344 on the work 80, so that link that Tim posted is the correct drum. I had that whole drum conversion chart once from Oregon....have no idea where it is now.

Sent from my C811 4G using Tapatalk

 

[Real1shepherd]

OK, grandson hit the send reply before I was ready....lol. Here are some pics of the unobtainium AV mount and how it attaches to the saw. Also I had an old pic of the bogus drum sent me for the 80/90 alongside the correct one. That bogus rim might have worked with a shim, but I did not feel inclined on a work saw that size. Oh yeah, threw in a pic of the correct Husky gasket for the Tilly carb and the bogus one in the kit(correct one on left).

Funny story about that bottom AV mount....told some guys who think they are in-the-know about all things J'red. They challenged me on the mount....like I was talking through my as*. They finally found some printed material and a dealer pic of the mount. It was like the Rapture to them...I wonder if they had any idea how stupid that made them seem. On something I've used for 35yrs, but had no validity until they read about it....lol

Over a 100F here today, supposed to be hotter tomorrow! Blueberries ready to pick a month early...WTH??

 

[fossil]

Wow, that's hot! Lucky you don't have the humidity to deal with as well.

Thanks for posting the pics and confirming the rim set up PN.

 

[Real1shepherd]

No problem.

I'll always be a MO country boy at heart, but I can't say I miss 105F during the day, 103F at night and 90% humidity. Not to mention the storms....lol!

Kevin

Sent from my C811 4G using Tapatalk

 

[shawn022]

Thanks Kevin. I bought a few of the 17344 drum kits. Looks like they will work just fine.

 

[briantutt]

.

 

[briantutt]

OK, grandson hit the send reply before I was ready....lol. Here are some pics of the unobtainium AV mount and how it attaches to the saw. Also I had an old pic of the bogus drum sent me for the 80/90 alongside the correct one. That bogus rim might have worked with a shim, but I did not feel inclined on a work saw that size. Oh yeah, threw in a pic of the correct Husky gasket for the Tilly carb and the bogus one in the kit(correct one on left).

Funny story about that bottom AV mount....told some guys who think they are in-the-know about all things J'red. They challenged me on the mount....like I was talking through my as*. They finally found some printed material and a dealer pic of the mount. It was like the Rapture to them...I wonder if they had any idea how stupid that made them seem. On something I've used for 35yrs, but had no validity until they read about it....lol

Over a 100F here today, supposed to be hotter tomorrow! Blueberries ready to pick a month early...WTH??

on the upside, in a few years those unobtainium parts can be 3D printed reasonably with some CAD work investment.

Brian