Jonsered Chainsaws

[Cantdog]

This came into my posession today. Not sure what model it is 70E maybe? It has a chainbrake if it makes any difference..View attachment 533820 View attachment 533821 View attachment 533822 View attachment 533820 View attachment 533821 View attachment 533822

By that serial number it should be an early style 70E....or perhaps a 66E. Very hard to tell the difference visually except the 66E has more and closer together cooling fins......however if you pull the muffler and take a look at the piston...... it will either have one or two rings.......the 70E has one, the 66E has two.

 

[82F100SWB]

We have one ring, so 70E it is. Cylinder looks excellent, and I briefly had spark, so it should be a runner yet.

 

[Cantdog]

We have one ring, so 70E it is. Cylinder looks excellent, and I briefly had spark, so it should be a runner yet.

Good luck with your 70E.....nice strong saws....being an early one it has an ign module under the flywheel....these can and do go bad and are very hard to come by as are the plastic flywheel fans. If you should encounter spark problems the first place to check is the connection between the recoil cover where the spark coil is located and the case connector.......they just touch together when the recoil cover is bolted down....be certain this connection is good.

 

[82F100SWB]

That connection was all that was wrong, fired on the third pull. Now it needs a clutch assy.

 

[Jacklefty]

So I finally got my 801 going and I went to adjust the carb and the saw died and then shot the starter handle back at me, hit me in the chest....now I have to get a new pull rope....for water it's worth it sounded great and accelerated well before it shot the handle at me....

 

[Real1shepherd]

The chain tensioner should be in the clutch cover....not the case....

Lol...yep.

Kevin

 

[Real1shepherd]

So I finally got my 801 going and I went to adjust the carb and the saw died and then shot the starter handle back at me, hit me in the chest....now I have to get a new pull rope....for water it's worth it sounded great and accelerated well before it shot the handle at me....

Be careful out there!

Just as an FYI about starter cord...pull the handle out about ten inches before you flip the switch off. Most starter cord breaks because of the intense tug at the end when you turn the saw off.

Kevin

 

[fossil]

So I finally got my 801 going and I went to adjust the carb and the saw died and then shot the starter handle back at me, hit me in the chest....now I have to get a new pull rope....for water it's worth it sounded great and accelerated well before it shot the handle at me....

What Kevin said and, many people set the starter dog springs into the wrong fin space and make the spring tension too high. That will make the dogs return to rest position faster and catch the starter pulley at a higher RPM.

I've never seen a flying starter handle before. At least it didn't clock you in the nuts.

 

[Jacklefty]

What Kevin said and, many people set the starter dog springs into the wrong fin space and make the spring tension too high. That will make the dogs return to rest position faster and catch the starter pulley at a higher RPM.

I've never seen a flying starter handle before. At least it didn't clock you in the nuts.

Haaa! I did not know own that about the starter rope....I'll have to remember that one...that ks guys.

 

[Real1shepherd]

What Kevin said and, many people set the starter dog springs into the wrong fin space and make the spring tension too high. That will make the dogs return to rest position faster and catch the starter pulley at a higher RPM.

I've never seen a flying starter handle before. At least it didn't clock you in the nuts.

Good points, Tim. I've seen both in used saws. Had an eBay "special" with a pic of 150psi in the auction and then upon examination, the starter dawgs were in backward. So I'm guessing he spun the saw with a drill and neglected to tell me that the pull start didn't work. I did get the same psi he did, so he really didn't cheat me there. However, I was taught that omission of facts was the same as lying....but maybe that was just a parent thing...lol.


Kevin

 

[WoodDean]

The chain tensioner should be in the clutch cover....not the case....

Ahhhhh . . .ok . . . I found the hole where it SHOULD have been!!???!!!
I swear . . these things are important, chain tensioner, tooth bar.
FIL has owned this saw since new. He has either removed it because he couldn't figure out how the reassemble it OR had someone work on it and didn't get all the pieces back.

 

[WoodDean]

Just bought a handle for my 111s.

 

[Real1shepherd]

I always thought the full-wrap for the 111S was waay to big/cumbersome in design Dragging it around the woods, it would have caught on everything. Nice looking half-wrap for its age.

I can't see any safe way to run a chainsaw without a chain tensioner...crazy. Maybe a way to pry the bar forward before tightening the bar nuts...but why??? Analogy would be like removing the brake pedal in a car....you could stop, but....

Kevin

 

[SawTroll]

Ahhhhh . . .ok . . . I found the hole where it SHOULD have been!!???!!!
I swear . . these things are important, chain tensioner, tooth bar.
FIL has owned this saw since new. He has either removed it because he couldn't figure out how the reassemble it OR had someone work on it and didn't get all the pieces back.

View attachment 534352

That obviously needs to be fixed if it is really is the case - but I'm really surprised if they had the tensioner in the clutch cover???

It is not how the IPL looks to me, and I don't think any saws were made that way back then (nor do I think it is a good idea, but I wasn't in that design team)?

 

[Real1shepherd]

That obviously needs to be fixed if it is really is the case - but I'm really surprised if they had the tensioner in the clutch cover???

It is not how the IPL looks to me, and I don't think any saws were made that way back then (nor do I think it is a good idea, but I wasn't in the design team)?

Husky did it, Poulan did it, Pioneer did it, Homelite did it...no doubt others. Not 'traditional' to me, but not sure it's a 'bad' design....never owned one.

Dean's not talking about the 111S without the tensioner...he's talking about a J'red Turbo 2050

Kevin

 

[SawTroll]

Husky did it, Poulan did it, Pioneer did it, Homelite did it...no doubt others. Not 'traditional' to me, but not sure it's a 'bad' design....never owned one.

Dean's not talking about the 111S without the tensioner...he's talking about a J'red Turbo 2050

Kevin

OK, didn't catch that - something as odd as a front access adjuster in the clutch cover in those Partner P400 family saws.

 

[fossil]

I think a lot of the companies switched to chain tensioners in the clutch cover in the '80's. It does it makes access to the screw a little easier. The down side is the number of broken covers due to being tightened down without lining up the bar pin. I think though there were a few saws with the pin and screw in the case that suffered cracked cases due to the same thing.

 

[SawTroll]

I think a lot of the companies switched to chain tensioners in the clutch cover in the '80's. It does it makes access to the screw a little easier. The down side is the number of broken covers due to being tightened down without lining up the bar pin. I think though there were a few saws with the pin and screw in the case that suffered cracked cases due to the same thing.

Husky didn't use chain adjusters from the side before 1998 on the saws they designed themselves (on the 350) - the year after the 346xp and 351 also came with a case mounted side chain adjuster - and the 372xp came with a clutch cover mounted one (really an "afterthought", as the 371 had a front case mounted one).

I originally though the cover mounting was because it was an afterthought - and do not like that certain later models also have clutch cover mounted adjusters - but I also know that some confused people like it....?

Cover mounted chain adjusters are less accurate than case mounted ones, but more importantly they are in the way of chip flow, specially when noodling. My best noodling saw has been the 346xp with 21LP chain, the 372xp wasn't a great noodling saw, likely because of the cover mounted chain adjuster, that was in the way. There are other reasons that the MS361 and PS-5100 didn't measure up - they likely would have done better if I had thought of removing the chip deflectors back then?

I have to admit that my favorite chain adjusters are the case mounted Stihl ones, like on the MS361, 660 etc.

The remedy for making a 372xp a great noodler is of course to put a 371 clutch cover, a 371 front case mounted chain adjuster and a wide discharge clutch cover on it.

 

[MiloFrance]

Morning folks. First post for me, just upgraded my Alpina to a Jonsered 2054 turbo. Did a bit of research, and most opinions are that it's OK but a bit slow. Suits me, I look after a few gardens in the South of France, so it doesn't come in for heavy use. (I have a stihl FS130 4 Mix for the bits I cant reach with the other one). Pretty clean all over, and started from cold in 4 or 5 pulls.
So, if I might pick your brains...
Any idea what year it might be?
A bit smokey, but I've not put a fresh mix in yet, it needs o-rings on the fuel and chain oil caps, hopefully that will be ok when I start it.
And the biggest question, there is a heck of a lot of play in the brake bar. It comes all the way back to the handle but function is ok. Something I need to look at or as long as it works it's fine kind of deal?

Just looked closer at the 1st pic. I think I need those o-rings quick. And a mop...

 

[SawTroll]

That 2054 was made 1995 week 37, according to the serial number.