'Nuther rare bargain........!!!....LOL!!
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Jo...969628?hash=item4daeabb21c:g:OTkAAOSwd3Ne~TMK
Oh yeah......more broke junk at NOS prices!!!! I guess if you needed one badly enough you could get it welded for another $50.......then it would be "fixed" junk....Notice the cracks between the bar stud holes???
Yeah, let em call my 'banker' and get back to ya on this one......has it been underwater?
Kevin
Very Nice Work!!!Yes, ditto! I bought the same set.
Kevin
Very Nice Work!!!
Well...I hope he can help you out. Over on this side we don' have a clue about square filing or even grinding for that matter. Our wood is much smaller and generally on flatter terrain. Full comp chisel chain is about as exotic as we get. That said.....I am going to change the bar studs on my 910E so I can run a 32" Cannon 3/8" Large Husky mount bar on it. A friend down south said he would send me a square ground chain to try as soon as I can get an accurate drive link count for him. Can't wait!!I'm talking with Aaron about fixing my old Granberg square file chisel chain jig. Another AS member who was a machinist did one.....but he doesn't want to do another one.
Aaron said when he got time, he'd maybe do it.
I think it's possible to take a modern Granberg and make it a square chisel sharpener if anyone might be interested. And not that guy on YouTube who made a triangle file work. That was just cobbled up crap. This would be the real deal that takes a double bevel Pfred chisel chain file.
https://www.baileysonline.com/pferd-double-bevel-square-chisel-bit-chainsaw-files-15070p.html
Kevin
I would very carefully check for any up and down play on either end of the crankshaft......if none discovered I would pop the seals and wash the bearings out with mix and an acid brush, rotating the crank and flushing frequently. Keep at it until the flush mix is clean....then check the bearing play again.....main bearings should be tight and the crank spin smoothly. If so so I wouldn't split the cases. The Husky tool works great on the larger saws as it leaves the bearings in the case half which can can then be easily tapped out. Other methods work but if the bearing comes out with the crank it's somewhat of a pain to get them off the crankshaft later. Not undoable but a few more steps with a bearing separator and a bar type puller...the PTO side can be a bit more difficult as you also have to pull the oil pump drive gear from the crank.
My puller will be here today!!! Thanks in advance!!
Thanks guys. The bearings are tighter than a nuns dirty so I won’t mess with splitting the case. Also I’m working on a few other bits that I can copy like the bar adjuster and parts of the oiler.I agree with Robin....up & down movement of the con rod while the crank is secured and up & down play of the crank ends is what you look for.....if neither, wash out those bearings and go with new seals.
That saw doesn't look like it's had enough hrs on it to show wear with the crank/bearings. Jonsered(s) cranks and bearings were top flight tuff stuff back in the day. I wouldn't hesitate to keep going with what ya got if there's no play.
Looks like a lot of coke & carbon....too much oil in the mix. You can lead a horse to water but you can't make it drink.......I get real tired of these 16:1 guys using modern, ported saws.
Or maybe he just ran it hella fat.....I dunno.
Kevin
Thanks guys. The bearings are tighter than a nuns dirty so I won’t mess with splitting the case. Also I’m working on a few other bits that I can copy like the bar adjuster and parts of the oiler.
Really??? Where in the heck do these folks get the idea that this is more than just junk??? And they think this old, scored, parts saw should net them $284.20....PFFFFT!!!
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Jonsered-6...brand=Jonsered&_trksid=p2060778.c100290.m3507