Jonsered Chainsaws

[bulletpruf]

They are the same from lower models way up to the 111S.

If anyone has an 80, you might as well get a 90 and while you're at it, pick up a 801 too....lol! They all share so much, you'll be golden.

I'd harvest those cranks, Scott......if there's no play....just toss the bearings so no one is tempted to reuse them down the line. New bearing are cheap insurance when you're that far into it.

Kevin

Harvested the cranks. Cursed you a few times while I was at it, but got 'em both out. Bearings are trashed, of course, but I think both cranks are useable with new bearings.

Ignition is removed as well. Need to wait until I get my 80, 90, and 110 going before I can send any of that on down the road. The 90 doesn't have spark, so it may need some parts. No clue on the 110; it's in pieces.

Feel free to remind me on the ignition. I'm sure I'll have leftovers if not a complete setup.

 

[Real1shepherd]

Well, I am about half way thru, made it to page 260.
I have enjoyed this thread a lot. I have read some of the other brand specific threads and have to say that the J'reds crowd rocks. So much history, great photos, the pictures of the old brochures. Learning new words: "unobtanium"!
I was on pins and needles for 30 pages after Robin got his 111 but it was not listed in the sig line. Worried that some how it turned out to be no good. (then I learned about the site issue with sig lines).
Thanks to everyone for the great curation of this thread. The internet can be so full of junk some days and this thread is a bright spot.
I do have that rim sprocket ordered from LRB. It has been over three weeks and it has not come in. I called them two weeks in and they said it was a back order. SAWR has them and I may just call LRB and cancel the entire order. Get it thru SAWR. Or Ebay.

Robin loves his 111S. A real peach too, as far as those saws go. Can't say I've been to every chainsaw site and to all threads that interest me, but this thread is unique. Great bunch of guys, no egos, no battles...never takes weird turns or displays country club/fraternity exclusivity. I certainly can't say that about other AS threads I've seen.....like ahem, the Husky folks.

Over this thread's long run, there has been an incredible amount of spec, sales, tales and restoration info posted. Sometimes I forget just how much is packed in here....lol.

Go with chainsawr for your part....you'll get it fer sure that way! "Unobtainium" is a term used a lot in the annals of analog stereo equipment. I'm probably guilty of introducing it here.

Kevin

 

[Real1shepherd]

Harvested the cranks. Cursed you a few times while I was at it, but got 'em both out. Bearings are trashed, of course, but I think both cranks are useable with new bearings.

Ignition is removed as well. Need to wait until I get my 80, 90, and 110 going before I can send any of that on down the road. The 90 doesn't have spark, so it may need some parts. No clue on the 110; it's in pieces.

Feel free to remind me on the ignition. I'm sure I'll have leftovers if not a complete setup.

LOL....but you know how rare 110/111/111S cranks are....time well spent, eh?

The ignition plates may vary from the the 621 to the 111S, but I'm betting the components are all the same. No difference between the 80/801/90 all the way through to the coil in the top cover. So if it's ignition related from a 80/90 and it's OK, I'll take it.

Kevin

 

[bulletpruf]

LOL....but you know how rare 110/111/111S cranks are....time well spent, eh?

The ignition plates may vary from the the 621 to the 111S, but I'm betting the components are all the same. No difference between the 80/801/90 all the way through to the coil in the top cover. So if it's ignition related from a 80/90 and it's OK, I'll take it.

Kevin

These were cranks from the junk 80's that I got. Unless I'm mistaken, they only fit an 80, 801, or a 90.

Scott

 

[Real1shepherd]

These were cranks from the junk 80's that I got. Unless I'm mistaken, they only fit an 80, 801, or a 90.

Scott

My bad, misread your post! Yes, will fit the 801/90 as well...same cranks seals etc.

Kevin

 

[jonsereds 621]

Scott - Lots of YouTube vids on splitting cases. Of course there are the factory tools and facsimiles to do it well. I recommend whatever doesn't damage anything and is doable. Using a freezer and a toaster oven is great for reassembly. Even in automotive work, when I was rebuilding my big NV4500 transmission, heating a bearing to 300F and then dropping it on a shaft proved incredibly successful.

As far as pulling crankcase seals here's a pic of what I've used in the past and what I'm going to start using;tool on left eventually broke but I like the design...just horrible quality steel. Tool on the right is the one that I'll probably use for a very long time. Some guys just screw in a sheet metal type screw into the seal and pull that way.

I'd be wary of any lateral(side to side) play in a crankshaft....however, there can be a small amount of push/pull play. Everyone argues about how much of that is permissible. It's usually the lateral play that takes out seals and is indicative of bearing failure.

Kevin

Do you find you can actually get your Lisle 58430 seal puller to where you want it ?....looks like it comes with a spare (different ? ) puller blade. I have been having great luck with a lightly modified old style can opener, the sort with a hardened spike blade and handle. Stick the spike through can, lift handle and advance etc...but with a tight bend in blade now. It could be time for me to move on up.....but it works.....on Jonsereds anyway.

 

[bulletpruf]

I haven't used my seal puller yet. Still splitting cases and popping them out with hammer and socket or regular seal puller.

 

[Real1shepherd]

Do you find you can actually get your Lisle 58430 seal puller to where you want it ?....looks like it comes with a spare (different ? ) puller blade. I have been having great luck with a lightly modified old style can opener, the sort with a hardened spike blade and handle. Stick the spike through can, lift handle and advance etc...but with a tight bend in blade now. It could be time for me to move on up.....but it works.....on Jonsereds anyway.

Still haven't used it. I used the one I pictured that broke, extensively. Rather than buy another(don't think seal pullers should be 'disposable'), I bought the Lisle. In principle, it should work once you figure out the correct angle of setup, but I have not used it yet, no.

Kevin

 

[truly]

There is a 49SP for sale in Rochester MN for 125$. It appears to be very minimally used. Almost no paint wear on handles. I would run get it but am busy this week and traveling next weekend.

https://rmn.craigslist.org/hsh/d/rochester-jonsereds-chainsaw/7280349075.html

 

[bcorradi]

I got a couple of jonsered part saws in a lot with some other saws and I was wondering if anyone could help identifying them. I believe they are both of the 910, 920, and 930 family and I believe they are both 54mm, but one has a decomp and one does not.

Saw 1 with Decomp



Saw 2 without

 

[Cantdog]

The one with the decomp is a 910 for sure the other is a 920 I believe as they were introduced in 82......and that has to be the lowest Jonsereds serial number I've ever seen.

 

[Cantdog]

There is a 49SP for sale in Rochester MN for 125$. It appears to be very minimally used. Almost no paint wear on handles. I would run get it but am busy this week and traveling next weekend.

https://rmn.craigslist.org/hsh/d/rochester-jonsereds-chainsaw/7280349075.html

That looks to be an excellent example!!

 

[bcorradi]

The one with the decomp is a 910 for sure the other is a 920 I believe as they were introduced in 82......and that has to be the lowest Jonsereds serial number I've ever seen.

Thank you a lot, I have a ton of jonsereds to sift through and I know very little about their models, but I am learning a bit lol.

 

[Real1shepherd]

Agree with Robin...the first is definitely 910....you can tell by the wrap handle and ignition coil. The 920 and 930 got beleaguered with clunky Partner style wrap handles....but the second example has no wrap on it, so.......

I don't know if the 920 & 930 had decomps...I would think so......dunno.

Kevin

 

[Real1shepherd]

Thank you a lot, I have a ton of jonsereds to sift through and I know very little about their models, but I am learning a bit lol.

Well you're living in old Jonsereds country. If you wanna trade or sell Jonsereds parts, try here first!

Kevin

 

[bcorradi]

Well you're living in old Jonsereds country. If you wanna trade or sell Jonsereds parts, try here first!

Kevin

I do have quite a pile of them and I still have to pick up a huge load of mainly jonsered saws, mostly the older ones too. I may be able to work something out.

 

[bcorradi]

Here are a few others I have downstairs, like I say the big bulk are coming this week. I've been avoiding grabbing them because I know so little about them.

Saw 1



Saw 2

Saw 3


Saw 4

 

[bcorradi]

Last pic of saw 4

 

[Cantdog]

Agree with Robin...the first is definitely 910....you can tell by the wrap handle and ignition coil. The 920 and 930 got beleaguered with clunky Partner style wrap handles....but the second example has no wrap on it, so.......

I don't know if the 920 & 930 had decomps...I would think so......dunno.

Kevin

No....and I'm not sure why, but the only one of this family to have the decomp is the 910. If you look closely at the case on the 910 where there is a place in the casting at the very end of the wrap where there is a place to bolt that tab at the end of the wrap. The other saw doesn't have this feature telling me it is an early 920.

 

[Real1shepherd]

No....and I'm not sure why, but the only one of this family to have the decomp is the 910. If you look closely at the case on the 910 where there is a place in the casting at the very end of the wrap where there is a place to bolt that tab at the end of the wrap. The other saw doesn't have this feature telling me it is an early 920.

That makes no sense to delete the decomp....especially on the 930 Super and given that this family started with one. Most big cc saws went towards having a decomp, not away from having it.

Kevin