Jonsered Chainsaws

[Cantdog]

That makes no sense to delete the decomp....especially on the 930 Super and given that this family started with one. Most big cc saws went towards having a decomp, not away from having it.

Kevin

I know....and agree but of all the old Jonsereds only the 90, 910 and 111 had a decomp... when they replaced the 910 with the 920 and then 930 they decided to leave out a decomp......perhaps they thought only "Manly Men" would run these big saws!!!!.....LOL!!!

 

[bulletpruf]

I know....and agree but of all the old Jonsereds only the 90, 910 and 111 had a decomp... when they replaced the 910 with the 920 and then 930 they decided to leave out a decomp......perhaps they thought only "Manly Men" would run these big saws!!!!.....LOL!!!

You left out the 110! Shame on you!

 

[Real1shepherd]

I know....and agree but of all the old Jonsereds only the 90, 910 and 111 had a decomp... when they replaced the 910 with the 920 and then 930 they decided to leave out a decomp......perhaps they thought only "Manly Men" would run these big saws!!!!.....LOL!!!

I just caulk it up as lack of foresight.....especially moving forward with Electrolux/Partner/Husky.

Personally I don't care....I don't even like them and usually plug them at some point. When I carry my 90 with cotton gloves while idling, my knuckles hit the decomp anyway.

Kevin

 

[mogulmasher]

Hey guys, the 70e has started to act up a bit and not run well. I put new crank seals in last year but didn't touch fuel lines or carb. I have a rebuild kit for carb. I checked the fuel line last night, seems in decent shape but might replace anyways. What are you guys using for fuel line on 70e? I did a bit of searching online and haven't found any.

 

[bulletpruf]

Personally I don't care....I don't even like them and usually plug them at some point. When I carry my 90 with cotton gloves while idling, my knuckles hit the decomp anyway.

Kevin

Only saw that I've had that didn't have a decomp but needed one was a Stihl Contra S. Mid 60's vintage, 137cc. You had to pull the starter cord with conviction on that one.

 

[Real1shepherd]

Hey guys, the 70e has started to act up a bit and not run well. I put new crank seals in last year but didn't touch fuel lines or carb. I have a rebuild kit for carb. I checked the fuel line last night, seems in decent shape but might replace anyways. What are you guys using for fuel line on 70e? I did a bit of searching online and haven't found any.

I go down to the Honda dealership and bring them whatever size line and they match it with whatever metric sizes they have. That's easier for me than trying to figure out sizes online. A Yamaha or any other outdoor dealer can do the same thing......just that here, Honda is the biggie.

I would replace the fuel filter and vent line too. Lots of gas resistant grommets out there too if you need to pass a line through the tank with one....don't know what the 70e has.

Kevin

 

[Real1shepherd]

Only saw that I've had that didn't have a decomp but needed one was a Stihl Contra S. Mid 60's vintage, 137cc. You had to pull the starter cord with conviction on that one.

Lol.....I never viewed it has a problem because the Husky 2100 never had one. Then I got an 80 that had much higher compression and if you didn't 'pre-pull' that cord, you'd sometimes get a surprise as the starter handle ripped from your fingers. But my 90 is a sweetheart. Once warm, you only need to pull the cord out about halfway and it fires. I've never had a points saw do that before.

Kevin

 

[bulletpruf]

I go down to the Honda dealership and bring them whatever size line and they match it with whatever metric sizes they have. That's easier for me than trying to figure out sizes online. A Yamaha or any other outdoor dealer can do the same thing......just that here, Honda is the biggie.

I would replace the fuel filter and vent line too. Lots of gas resistant grommets out there too if you need to pass a line through the tank with one....don't know what the 70e has.

Kevin

Once I figured out the main sizes, I bought rolls of the commonly used stuff. Or you can also go on Amazon or eBay and buy an assortment of the common sizes.

 

[bulletpruf]

Lol.....I never viewed it has a problem because the Husky 2100 never had one. Then I got an 80 that had much higher compression and if you didn't 'pre-pull' that cord, you'd sometimes get a surprise as the starter handle ripped from your fingers. But my 90 is a sweetheart. Once warm, you only need to pull the cord out about halfway and it fires. I've never had a points saw do that before.

Kevin

Yeah, my 80 has by far the highest compression I've ever tested at 238 psi. Curious to see what I'm going to find when I pull the jug to give it a look see. Could be so full of carbon that the combustion chamber has shrunk.

 

[Real1shepherd]

Yeah, my 80 has by far the highest compression I've ever tested at 238 psi. Curious to see what I'm going to find when I pull the jug to give it a look see. Could be so full of carbon that the combustion chamber has shrunk.

Around 200psi is not uncommon on the 80. I never tested mine until it had over 30yrs of me using it. I think it was just under 170psi then.

Yep, lots of carbon & coke can easily drive up compression by shrinking the chamber.

Kevin

 

[truly]

I see why bulletpruf wanted me to read the entire thread. ALL THOSE AMAZING RAKETS! Around page 354-355 for anyone who hasn't seen them. There seems to be a giant leap in design from the Rakets to the early 70s saws. Then from that point forward there in minimal actual functional change from then to today. Obvious the weight savings of plastic, safety features like chain brake and anti vibe. But there is night and day difference between Rakets and a 75 vintage saw. But not night and day difference between 75 and 2021.

 

[mogulmasher]

I rebuilt the 70e carb last night and put new fuel filter in. Saw runs fantastic! Fuel line is in good shape for now, I was just concerned it might not be. Also wasn't sure about diameter of line to pass through top of tank....there is no grommet. I plan to run non-ethanol in this saw so hopefully it'll last a few more years.

 

[mogulmasher]

I have another question on my 70e. The handle is laid back against recoil housing a bit. Is my handlebar bent or is the lower front av mount junk? Or a combo of both? Will a new rubber mount bring the handle forward again?

I ask cause I've seen pics of a couple other 70e saws and looked like handle was leaning back like mine.

 

[Real1shepherd]

I don't have a 70e, but the geometry of your handle looks Kosher to me. Lots of members have this saw, so hopefully they will weigh in.

I have a standing offer to buy one....just not sure how to fit it in with what I do.

Kevin

 

[Real1shepherd]

I see why bulletpruf wanted me to read the entire thread. ALL THOSE AMAZING RAKETS! Around page 354-355 for anyone who hasn't seen them. There seems to be a giant leap in design from the Rakets to the early 70s saws. Then from that point forward there in minimal actual functional change from then to today. Obvious the weight savings of plastic, safety features like chain brake and anti vibe. But there is night and day difference between Rakets and a 75 vintage saw. But not night and day difference between 75 and 2021.

Scott picked up some magnificent old J'reds beauties when he was stationed in Europe. You'd be hard pressed to find any better in the US.

Modern high RPM saws full of plastic are really great for limbin' and buzzin' around. But nothing has really changed when you have to rock into decent timber to say, buck.....low-end torque wins the day. You can make 'em lighter and maybe a bit more svelt than the older saws, but "better", perhaps not.

Not gonna spend thousands for a couple of modern saws just to see if they are everything they're supposed to be. Not with so many vintage saws floating around out there still.

Kevin

 

[Cantdog]

I have another question on my 70e. The handle is laid back against recoil housing a bit. Is my handlebar bent or is the lower front av mount junk? Or a combo of both? Will a new rubber mount bring the handle forward again?

I ask cause I've seen pics of a couple other 70e saws and looked like handle was leaning back like mine.View attachment 891474View attachment 891475

You can try loosening up the clamp on the other end where the top handle goes into the mount over the clutch cover.....move the handle to where you think it should be and tighten up the clamp bolt. That joint can creep under the strain of use and may need adjusting occasionally. Your handle doesn't look bent to me...but they do get out of whack.

 

[mogulmasher]

Thanks for the replies guys. Good call cantdog, I was looking at that very clamp and wondered if it would help realign handle a bit. I'll give it a shot.

 

[ErnieG]

I picked up a 910e recently and I'm looking for some help .
It had low compression numbers ..and some exhaust side piston scoring so I removed the cylinder to check it and it doesn't seem to bad to me. There aren't any deep gouges I can catch my finger nail on .
My question is what do you guys recommend I do ..hone the cylinder or replace it ?
Obviously I have to replace piston and ring .
Here's a few pics ...
I appreciate the help...Ernie

 

[bulletpruf]

Scott picked up some magnificent old J'reds beauties when he was stationed in Europe. You'd be hard pressed to find any better in the US.

Modern high RPM saws full of plastic are really great for limbin' and buzzin' around. But nothing has really changed when you have to rock into decent timber to say, buck.....low-end torque wins the day. You can make 'em lighter and maybe a bit more svelt than the older saws, but "better", perhaps not.

Not gonna spend thousands for a couple of modern saws just to see if they are everything they're supposed to be. Not with so many vintage saws floating around out there still.

Kevin

Yep. If you're in need of an excellent 50-60cc saw, a Jonsereds 621 would be a great one, even today. They're exceptionally well-built, easy to work on, plentiful, inexpensive, parts are still readily available on eBay, parts saws are CHEAP, and they're one of the best firewood saws ever made.

If you're needing something larger, the 80/801/90 saws are still relatively affordable and still have a fair selection of parts available.

For bigger stuff, I'm a huge fan of the 110/111/111S, but some parts are darn near impossible to find, so they wouldn't be well-suited for anything more than occasional use, in my opinion.

 

[bulletpruf]

I picked up a 910e recently and I'm looking for some help .
It had low compression numbers ..and some exhaust side piston scoring so I removed the cylinder to check it and it doesn't seem to bad to me. There aren't any deep gouges I can catch my finger nail on .
My question is what do you guys recommend I do ..hone the cylinder or replace it ?
Obviously I have to replace piston and ring .
Here's a few pics ...
I appreciate the help...Ernie

Ernie - not many folks recommend honing a 2 cycle cylinder. Unlike a 4 stroke engine, which needs oil to hang on the cylinder walls to lubricate, a 2 stroke engine uses the fuel/oil mix to lubricate, so a textured surface on the cylinder walls (like you see after honing a 4 cycle engine bore) is counterproductive.

Some folks use scotchbrite on some sort of a drill attachment to clean out aluminum transfer and that seems to work well. I prefer to use muriatic acid on a cotton swab. You can find videos of both methods on youtube.