Jonsered Chainsaws

[Cantdog]

Yes I had the same problem with a 70E because I made an isolation block to cyl gasket which was somewhat thinner than the OEM one and the bolts would tighten up but not tighten the carb down quite enough.....I ground an 1/8" off the bolts as there was plenty of thread....all better!!

 

[taplinhill]

Would any of you guys know where I could find a full wrap handle for a model 90 and a serviceable Jonsered model XF (I'm aware that this second one is a long shot)? Any help would be great.

I can't help you with an XF, but you can broaden your search for the 90 full wrap to the 80, 81 and 801 as well. And there are two types of full wraps for these saws. The most common style comes down past the clutch cover and has a knob. I have seen these on the 801, 80, and 90. The other style wraps under and bolts back the the saw. These were more common out west and I have seen them on the 90 and 81. I hope this helps a little.

 

[hoss]

Thank you for the info. That is good stuff to know.:msp_smile:

 

[Srking629]

Lookin for help.

I grabbed this old 521e from a buddy who was gonna toss it. He thought it was seized but all I did was free up the fingers on the flywheel that grab the pull start. I've done some searching around the weband can't find anything on this particular model. I have a 6 digit serial number. The 521E sticker and a yellow warning label in Swedish writing. What I want to know is how old is this thing and what is the switch on the left side behind the pull handle? I would post pictures but don't know how.

 

[taplinhill]

I grabbed this old 521e from a buddy who was gonna toss it. He thought it was seized but all I did was free up the fingers on the flywheel that grab the pull start. I've done some searching around the weband can't find anything on this particular model. I have a 6 digit serial number. The 521E sticker and a yellow warning label in Swedish writing. What I want to know is how old is this thing and what is the switch on the left side behind the pull handle? I would post pictures but don't know how.

The 521E is a 52E with heated handles, and that is what the switch is for. The warning is telling you to wear hearing protection. The saw is mid to late 1970's vintage. They were very nice saws in their time and still not to shabby by todays standards.

 

[Srking629]

Oh cool thanks. I only used it once and it ran great. Wouldn't start today tho. You wouldn't happen to know what size the engine is?

 

[taplinhill]

49cc

 

[8433jeff]

49cc

That pulls like its closer to 60cc, at least back in the day wise.

 

[sawfun9]

My buddy's 52E which is a 49cc of that era, has more felt torque than either my 026 or 346. It is a slower RPM and cuts slower than them over all, but can be leaned on much harder. That 52E will flat outcut circles around my 028 super. And that's with both having the same size bar and same type chain side by side in the same wood.

 

[SawTroll]

My buddy's 52E which is a 49cc of that era, has more felt torque than either my 026 or 346. It is a slower RPM and cuts slower than them over all, but can be leaned on much harder. That 52E will flat outcut circles around my 028 super. And that's with both having the same size bar and same type chain side by side in the same wood.

Yep, they need some high gearing, to get a decent chain speed, and they also are a lot heavier than a 346xp or MS260....

 

[grgbandkng]

I have a points 52, and I love that saw. Keep the chain sharp, and it will almost cut with my 625. It is a bit on the heavy side, but then again, I don't own a new, lightweight saw to compare it too, so the weight doesn't bother me!

 

[Cantdog]

The 521E is a 52E with heated handles, and that is what the switch is for. The warning is telling you to wear hearing protection. The saw is mid to late 1970's vintage. They were very nice saws in their time and still not to shabby by todays standards.

Though basically accurate enough for discussion....and the carb and P&C are the same, the 521 has a completely different recoil cover, flywheel, and flywheel case half from the other 49 through 52 series....and these parts are only 521 specific....just want to point out the major differences...besides the heated handles...pretty much as stated otherwise.

 

[Srking629]

Well at the very least im glad I found a site where I can get helpwith any issue I might with my new "toy". Like I said tho I only used the saw once and now that I own one I'm sure I wont need it. I used it to cut up an old swing set. Definitly outperformed my fathers homelite (maybe 4 or 5 years old and was bought new, probably 20 hours at most on it). Love old stuff. The days before plastic were great. 35-40 year old tool and outperforms some modern stuff

 

[taplinhill]

Though basically accurate enough for discussion....and the carb and P&C are the same, the 521 has a completely different recoil cover, flywheel, and flywheel case half from the other 49 through 52 series....and these parts are only 521 specific....just want to point out the major differences...besides the heated handles...pretty much as stated otherwise.

Yes, from the clutch side you can't tell the difference, but from the recoil side they are very much different. The easy way to spot a 521E is the switch, but the bulge for the coil in the recoil is also a dead give-away.

 

[XPLRN]

I've joined the Jonered owner ranks!!

Here is the link to the saw(Jonsered 670 Super West Coast) I ended up buying this past week. ;
http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/177268.htm

Thanks to all the 'regulars' on this thread that posted up good J-red info on the above thread.

I've spent a fair amount of time reading thru this entire thread looking for 670 info. It has opened my eyes to a manufacturer with an interesting past. I've learned that my saw is a "shared product" model vs. a "pure" Jonsered vintage model(pre E-lux). Some day maybe the CAD will take me to a "pure" model. I have to admit that the last two saws have been more plastic than I'd like but as long as they work well I'll be happy!!


Back to my saw and getting it to an operating status...........I did pour the straight gas out of it that the previous owner had put in it in anticipation of me trying to get it started. Sure glad I ask about what ratio gas/oil mixture he'd mixed up........got that blank "deer in the headlights" look.

I'm going to remove the "skid plate" and also the muffler so I can check out the P/C condition. Does anyone know what the stock muffler bolts diamensions might be......grip length, thread pitch(metric I'm presuming) and diameter. I'll need to buy some replacement hardware as I'm not going put the "skid plate" back on. I'd like to find either the original aluminum guard or preferably some of the spike things to replace the "skid plate".

Over the years I've learned what it takes to get a motorcycle or automobile engine that has been sitting for years back to operational condition. What I don't know is the proper procedure for getting this basically 'new' , but sitting for 20 years, saw up and going!??? Hopefully the knowledgeable folks here can shed some light on that for me. Do you pull the plug and put some chainsaw mix oil in the cylinder and let it sit for awhile to lube the P/C and ring(s) or ??? I'm also wondering about the crank seals.........do they go bad with just sitting for years and not being lubricated??

Anyway a big "Thanks" in advance for any/all info you knowledgeable J-red folks can share!!

PS...........does anyone do the muffler modification on the 670 ??

 

[wendell]

carbide chain?!? Wow!!

 

[SawTroll]

I would save that carbide chain for special conditions, it is not well suited for general cutting, and very expensive.

 

[XPLRN]

I would save that carbide chain for special conditions, it is not well suited for general cutting, and very expensive.

Thanks, ST, for that suggestion. I'd wondered about that myself and am curious as to why "it is not well suited for general cutting" ...different tooth design or?? Could I use the bar that is currently on the saw satisfactorily or should I buy a complete new bar and chain and keep that bar for the future usage(??? what that will be I don't rightly know) of carbide chain??? If buying a new bar and chain what chain would you recommend!??

I think it's a 20" bar on it currently and IIRC I read in some other posts that the 670 runs good with that size bar?? Actually I'd not be opposed to a 24" bar/chain assembly if it wouldn't compromise the power output of engine. My BIL has a property with some good sized Ponderosa Pine(downed and standing) that I'll probably be burying that 670 into sometime in the future.

 

[spike60]

I got me one of those babies. Got it from Barney34 in trade for a 2095.

I ditched the cutter's choice decals for the gold "Champ" ones. This is an early twin coil model, and a real good runner.

 

[wendell]