Jonsered Chainsaws

[wendell]

You need to take a picture behind the clutch (the round thing). You will see either a circle with slots (rim) or a star shaped wheel (somewhat like the sprocket on a bike)= spur.

 

[Cantdog]

You need to take a picture behind the clutch (the round thing). You will see either a circle with slots (rim) or a star shaped wheel (somewhat like the sprocket on a bike)= spur.[/QUOTE

Yep basically the spur type drive is integral with the clutch drum...so to change chain pitch or drive count you have to replace the drum and sprocket....a rim drive sprocket floats on a spline on the clutch hub and you just replace the rim to change pitch or drive count....I'm gonna guess you have the rim drive setup...

 

[grgbandkng]

The other thing I'm wondering about is since I took the "skid plate" off where does one get the spike plates??

Felling spikes for the 670 can also be had at Bailey's. They are made by Pro Safety. Search for the spikes that fit a Husky 266/268/272. They are a bit large. I have a set on my 625, and I like them a lot. I find the large size useful for the most part, but they do eat up quite a bit of useable bar length. Another option would be looking on the bay or at site sponser Chainsawr for a set of OEM spikes.

 

[J.Walker]

Back home from a job today.

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[wendell]

Back home from a job today.
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[Cantdog]

Back home from a job today.

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Jack...Have I ever told you how much you suck????? On the off chance that I might have before...let me reiterate...you suck!!! LOL!! Hell... I'm still dreamin of the vids of your 2171 and wishin it was mine...now......a 2188...and I'm just guessin not so stock!!!?????? Now that your bored with the 2171 wanna trade it for....say a half dozen fresh 49sp's...?????LOLOLOL!!!!!

 

[XPLRN]

Learning........thanks to all that are helping!!

You need to take a picture behind the clutch (the round thing). You will see either a circle with slots (rim) or a star shaped wheel (somewhat like the sprocket on a bike)= spur.[/QUOTE

Yep basically the spur type drive is integral with the clutch drum...so to change chain pitch or drive count you have to replace the drum and sprocket....a rim drive sprocket floats on a spline on the clutch hub and you just replace the rim to change pitch or drive count....I'm gonna guess you have the rim drive setup...

Thanks 'wendell' and 'Cantdog' for the intel on the different types of chain drive setups. Your descriptions were great and it was easy to figure out once I knew what to look for.

Good guess, Cantdog, on the rim drive setup........that is what I've got. I'm a novice to chainsaw repair but have plenty of automotive and motorcycle experience. All that I've read indicates the clutch nut is probably a left-hand thread..... what torque spec. is that nut torqued to?? Does one need to put rope down the sparkplug hole to provide a soft stop to hold the crank or ???

Would a place like Baileys have different pitch/gauge rim drive sprockets or is that a dealer only item!??? Now that my wife is doing better with her gallbladder surgery recovery I've got some time to do some 'net searching so I'll start out by looking on Baileys for rim drive sprockets until someone informs me of a better source.

@ grgbandkng; Thanks for the tip on the felling spikes, appreciate the pictures...those are some pretty gnarly big spikes!! The pictures did help me figure out that I'm probably going to be looking for some OEM style. If anyone has some pictures of the OEM felling spikes they could post up that would be appreciated.

 

[8433jeff]

Any saw shop should have what you need, or be able to get it shortly. Just need to match it all up, 3/8 bar, rim, chain. Or order it all from Baileys. Should be life size pictures or outlines to match up. Number of splines, number of teeth you want. A 3/8's rim will work with any gauge of chain and bar, which have to match up.

 

[XPLRN]

Thanks!

Any saw shop should have what you need, or be able to get it shortly. Just need to match it all up, 3/8 bar, rim, chain. Or order it all from Baileys. Should be life size pictures or outlines to match up. Number of splines, number of teeth you want. A 3/8's rim will work with any gauge of chain and bar, which have to match up.

I appreciate the heads-up on the fact that a 3/8's rim will work with any gauge of chain. Is it worth changing the "gearing" of the saw when buying a new rim or just keep what the original sprocket count was?? If I'm going to change to a 3/8's pitch chain I'll probably take the suggestion made earlier about up-sizing to a 24" blade as I'll be cutting softwood primarily.

Now to figure out the correct way to remove the clutch nut........without messing anything up!! I don't have an impact so will probably head over to my neighbor's and use his. Just don't know about whether there needs to be a stop to hold the crankshaft or if that isn't applicable when using the impact on that nut!??

 

[8433jeff]

I appreciate the heads-up on the fact that a 3/8's rim will work with any gauge of chain. Is it worth changing the "gearing" of the saw when buying a new rim or just keep what the original sprocket count was?? If I'm going to change to a 3/8's pitch chain I'll probably take the suggestion made earlier about up-sizing to a 24" blade as I'll be cutting softwood primarily.

Now to figure out the correct way to remove the clutch nut........without messing anything up!! I don't have an impact so will probably head over to my neighbor's and use his. Just don't know about whether there needs to be a stop to hold the crankshaft or if that isn't applicable when using the impact on that nut!??

I would suggest the rope trick and no impact. I have had good results with an impact, with and with out a rope or stop, and have seen clutches buggered up either way, by a cheap wrench or an idiot or by an impact, so do want you want. Its your saw, a nice one BTW.

The rim tooth count will change with the pitch. Seven tooth .404 is closest to 8 pin 3/8's, and in soft wood, you should be OK. If you ever cut harder stuff, you can gear back to 7 pin. Kinda like shifting a transmission.

 

[XPLRN]

Bailey's also has the muffler support bracket for your saw.. their order # is QH 5053 5901 and costs $3.99

Good luck to the wife and good for you helping out!! Glad to be of any help I can....you have a dandy saw there and should last you a lifetime if cared for properly.

Thanks for the + thoughts regarding my wife's recovery. Today was kind of a turning point and she's feeling the best she has since the surgery. The arthroscopic entry points will take awhile to heal but we're really hoping for a very + overall change from this surgery. Gallbladder attacks **are** a very painful and long lasting body disturbance!!

Thanks for the heads up on the muffler bracket availability, I'll be ordering one of those also!!

I'm leaning towards buying a Husky chain from Bailey's ( #HVA 501 84 31 66 ) just to use the original blade and not mess around with changing the rim sprocket for now. I just want to get the saw up and functional and then later on I'll switch over to the .375/.058 bar, rim sprocket and chain combo. It seems to be the easiest / most inexpensive way to start cutting with this saw and see how it performs!!

 

[HeRoze]

CL find... she's a bit dirty, neglected and stinks like old gas, but she's mine! 910 E

Now I gotta join a new forum here!

Typical beg for stuff for the new saw thing... IPL? MX Manuals? any other similar brands/models out there? Any help would be appreciated!

 

[Steveo_supremo]

For XPLRN here's what the stock dawgs look like on a 670:

I polished mine, but they are the stock shape.

 

[Cantdog]

HeRose...That's a dandy looking 910.....rather dirty from sitting but doesn't have that look of heavy use and long hours. Good score!!!!

 

[XPLRN]

For XPLRN here's what the stock dawgs look like on a 670:

I polished mine, but they are the stock shape.

Bingo, thanks S_s!! I appreciate the pictures of the stock 670 dawgs. Those are what I'm wanting, looks like I need to contact the 'chainsawr.com' site and see what is available there.

PS.......the polished touch is cool!!

**edit** Anyone have any extra stock bucking spikes for the 670 they would consider letting go?? I want the complete setup just like the pictures S_s posted up. It looks like there is some cross-bolt arrangement on the top and bottom of the two spikes!??

I searched the 'chainsawr.com' website to no avail.
http://store.chainsawr.com/products/jonsered-625-630-670-and-husqvarn-61-266-268-272-chainsaw-outer-bucking-spike-pn-503-59-07-01-jn-670-bin

 

[HeRoze]

HeRose...That's a dandy looking 910.....rather dirty from sitting but doesn't have that look of heavy use and long hours. Good score!!!!

thx. it doesn't look bad, but some stuff is loose - may just be some loose bolts or worn rubber, I'm not sure yet. I haven't popped the hood, and have only dumped the stinky gas out of it.

It was one of those "it ran great three years ago" stories.

 

[Cantdog]

thx. it doesn't look bad, but some stuff is loose - may just be some loose bolts or worn rubber, I'm not sure yet. I haven't popped the hood, and have only dumped the stinky gas out of it.

It was one of those "it ran great three years ago" stories.

Yep probably needs the usual..pop the muffler and check the piston, clean and kit the carb, new fuel line and filter. Great saws...PB brought me one down to try a couple yrs ago...it was the strongest saw we ran that day, out of perhaps a dozen and some were ported but were not 87cc!!!
As I said yours look like pretty low hrs to me.

 

[Steveo_supremo]

Bingo, thanks S_s!! I appreciate the pictures of the stock 670 dawgs. Those are what I'm wanting, looks like I need to contact the 'chainsawr.com' site and see what is available there.

PS.......the polished touch is cool!!

**edit** Anyone have any extra stock bucking spikes for the 670 they would consider letting go?? I want the complete setup just like the pictures S_s posted up. It looks like there is some cross-bolt arrangement on the top and bottom of the two spikes!??

There is no cross-bolt, at least there isn't supposed to be. I added a modified (shortened) Stihl 066 roller chain catcher, that is what You are seeing at the bottom. It bolts onto the outer spike and just sticks into a hole in the inner spike. Here is a better picture:

As a side note, I don't think 670's ever came with an outer spike, just the inner. Husqvarna 272's definitely did, though and they are the same spikes.

Here is a set of spikes on ebay, a bit pricey but they are new.

Here is the thread documenting the buildup of that saw if You're interested.

 

[HeRoze]

i popped the top on the 910E. P&C look great. spline sprocket looks good. the bar and chain are beautiful, Swedish replaceable tip bar in good condition.

One inappropriate bolt, one missing AV grommet thing, one mystery hole, chafed wires from the pickup to the plug... that's about it so far. Not bad at all.

Only gripes I have is that I don't get all the friggin' plastic on this saw, or the spark plug wiring...

I got the carb kit on order (hopefully its a Tilly 23HS)

 

[8433jeff]

i popped the top on the 910E. P&C look great. spline sprocket looks good. the bar and chain are beautiful, Swedish replaceable tip bar in good condition.

One inappropriate bolt, one missing AV grommet thing, one mystery hole, chafed wires from the pickup to the plug... that's about it so far. Not bad at all.

Only gripes I have is that I don't get all the friggin' plastic on this saw, or the spark plug wiring...

I got the carb kit on order (hopefully its a Tilly 23HS)

Got to remember the time frame, and most by then had switched to plastic pieces where there was metal before. Trying to keep it reasonable in weight and price I would imagine, and they aren't that fragile. Just don't try to free a stuck bar by pulling on it. About the only weakness I've heard of, other than lack of spares, but thats just par for saws of this vintage. Try to keep an eye on the wiring, thats also hard to find.