Jonsered Chainsaws

[edju1958]

I see there haven't been any posts here in the last couple weeks.I hope folks are still checking for posts.
I dug out my 2nd saw I ever bought 42 yrs.ago.It was a Jonsered 361 made by Quadra in Trail,B.C.Canada in the late 70's to early 80's.I hadn't had this little gem fired up in about 7 yrs.I put fuel in & pulled about 10-12 times & it fired right up & idled like a new saw.
A few days before that I got another 361 back to running condition again.Only problem with this saw is the slide switch button is broken,so I have to choke it out to kill it.This one was a Canadain saw (sold & used there) as it has a maple leaf on the AF cover & a chain brake.My original 361 has no chain brake.
Then yesterday I revived yet another 361.The saw's carb was missing the hi needle on the carb,so I borrowed the needle from a Pioneer P10 carb (same saw).That was the only other Walbro WT58 that I had on hand,all the rest of the carbs I have are Tilly HU18c.I got it running again by putting a new fuel filter in it,but it needs crank seals
Does anyone know what aftermarket crank seal it uses?

 

[Modifiedmark]

I see there haven't been any posts here in the last couple weeks.I hope folks are still checking for posts.
I dug out my 2nd saw I ever bought 42 yrs.ago.It was a Jonsered 361 made by Quadra in Trail,B.C.Canada in the late 70's to early 80's.I hadn't had this little gem fired up in about 7 yrs.I put fuel in & pulled about 10-12 times & it fired right up & idled like a new saw.
A few days before that I got another 361 back to running condition again.Only problem with this saw is the slide switch button is broken,so I have to choke it out to kill it.This one was a Canadain saw (sold & used there) as it has a maple leaf on the AF cover & a chain brake.My original 361 has no chain brake.
Then yesterday I revived yet another 361.The saw's carb was missing the hi needle on the carb,so I borrowed the needle from a Pioneer P10 carb (same saw).That was the only other Walbro WT58 that I had on hand,all the rest of the carbs I have are Tilly HU18c.I got it running again by putting a new fuel filter in it,but it needs crank seals
Does anyone know what aftermarket crank seal it uses?

What I know is I have a full box of parts for those saws, new pistons, cylinders, cranks, rings, crank bearings, seals, spacers, oilers, switches and I would like this box to disappear from here. If someone is interested I would make a deal you can't pass up. I just haven't been able to pitch the stuff out.

 

[edju1958]

Good news about the last 361 I was working on the other day & thought it needed crank seals.I styarted tearing into it today - popped the FW & oil pump & saw that it was quite clean in there.I decided it may not be the crank seals after all.I figured it could be a cracked fuel line or a bad carb gasket sucking air.I pulled the handle off & examined the fuel line - it was good,but someone had been into the saw before me & totally screwed up the carb gasket.Fortunately I had a new gasket on hand & put that on,fueled up the saw & it was running after a couple pulls,but I had to readjust the carb & drop the idle down a bit.It throttles up & idles nicely.
Now I wish I could just figure out why the recoil won't work.When I tighten the screw down that holds the pulley onto the shaft it binds up tight as a drum.I had to put a new spring in it as the old one was buggered up pretty good.

 

[Real1shepherd]

Yet....any chainsaw that has had the same crank seals for 25+ yrs or more should be replaced....maybe even @20yrs. Simple/cheap insurance against catastrophic lean-run failure. If you're rebuilding a saw or trying to put a vintage saw into service, I don't understand the reluctance to do this.

I've seen folks with some spectacular old vintage saws(with unobtainium parts), virtually ruin them thinking the crank seals were OK because they ran a tank or part of a tank through the saw.

Kevin

 

[newwood]

Yet....any chainsaw that has had the same crank seals for 25+ yrs or more should be replaced....maybe even @20yrs. Simple/cheap insurance against catastrophic lean-run failure. If you're rebuilding a saw or trying to put a vintage saw into service, I don't understand the reluctance to do this.

I've seen folks with some spectacular old vintage saws(with unobtainium parts), virtually ruin them thinking the crank seals were OK because they ran a tank or part of a tank through the saw.

Kevin

Well, as long as we’re telling 361 stories… have had mine since the 70s and it started smoking like an insect fogger (but still ran great). Fortunately I remembered an old thread here about a check valve between the cylinder and oil tank used to pressurize the tank. Of course exploded diagrams of the saw had different versions of this valve (and no meaningful part numbers) but I somewhat blindly ordered a tiny duckbill valve and (miracle or miracles) that was just the ticket when I split the machine and replaced it. Of course giving up the fog of chain oil means I have to deal with the cloud of mosquitos—it’s always something.

 

[fossil]

Good news about the last 361 I was working on the other day & thought it needed crank seals.I styarted tearing into it today - popped the FW & oil pump & saw that it was quite clean in there.I decided it may not be the crank seals after all.I figured it could be a cracked fuel line or a bad carb gasket sucking air.I pulled the handle off & examined the fuel line - it was good,but someone had been into the saw before me & totally screwed up the carb gasket.Fortunately I had a new gasket on hand & put that on,fueled up the saw & it was running after a couple pulls,but I had to readjust the carb & drop the idle down a bit.It throttles up & idles nicely.
Now I wish I could just figure out why the recoil won't work.When I tighten the screw down that holds the pulley onto the shaft it binds up tight as a drum.I had to put a new spring in it as the old one was buggered up pretty good.

With regards to the recoil,

There should be a flat washer between the screw head and the hold down bolt. The washer should have a small enough diameter to only hit on the post and not on the pulley.
That allows the screw to be tightened without contacting and and binding the pulley.

You'll have to experiment a bit to get the thickness of the washer right so you don't have too much play.

 

[edju1958]

With regards to the recoil,

There should be a flat washer between the screw head and the hold down bolt. The washer should have a small enough diameter to only hit on the post and not on the pulley.
That allows the screw to be tightened without contacting and and binding the pulley.

You'll have to experiment a bit to get the thickness of the washer right so you don't have too much play.

Thanks Tim,that makes perfect sense! There were 2 washers in the recoil & I know for a fact they weren't the correct size.I looked at a rercoil today that came off a Skil 1610 & it was a bit different in that there was no screw at all,but rather an E clip.IIRC,the Frontier recoil was the same,but I can't look at it as that saw got stolen.I guess a trip to the hardware store is in order.

 

[edju1958]

Yet....any chainsaw that has had the same crank seals for 25+ yrs or more should be replaced....maybe even @20yrs. Simple/cheap insurance against catastrophic lean-run failure. If you're rebuilding a saw or trying to put a vintage saw into service, I don't understand the reluctance to do this.

I've seen folks with some spectacular old vintage saws(with unobtainium parts), virtually ruin them thinking the crank seals were OK because they ran a tank or part of a tank through the saw.

Kevin

I don't believe in making any more work for myself than is absolutely necessary.just because a crank seal is 30 or 40 yrs.old doesn't mean that it's automatically no good.Furthermore,if a person can't tell that a saw is leaning out,then he has no business with one in his hands.I have a keen ear for running machinery,something taught to me by my dad many yrs.ago.The old saying is - "if it ain't broke don't fix it".

 

[Real1shepherd]

I don't believe in making any more work for myself than is absolutely necessary.just because a crank seal is 30 or 40 yrs.old doesn't mean that it's automatically no good.Furthermore,if a person can't tell that a saw is leaning out,then he has no business with one in his hands.I have a keen ear for running machinery,something taught to me by my dad many yrs.ago.The old saying is - "if it ain't broke don't fix it".

I couldn't disagree more, especially on crank seals and especially for the price of two. Yeah, an experienced owner should be able to tell if a saw is 'screaming'(leaning out), but I've read where many owners trashed vintage saws that way. Wasn't there, don't know what they heard/didn't hear.

Crank seals, all fuel & vent lines, Orings, rubber grommets, recoil handles etc.....all things that deteriorate over time. A good restorer replaces all those as a matter of course. But it's your saw to do with as you wish.

Kevin

 

[Cantdog]

I don't believe in making any more work for myself than is absolutely necessary.just because a crank seal is 30 or 40 yrs.old doesn't mean that it's automatically no good.Furthermore,if a person can't tell that a saw is leaning out,then he has no business with one in his hands.I have a keen ear for running machinery,something taught to me by my dad many yrs.ago.The old saying is - "if it ain't broke don't fix it".

I would say by taking this approach to a low end, 30-40 year old saw, rebadged to Jonsereds, you may very well be opening the door to doing the exact opposite of your intent. Two stroke motors are not nearly as forgiving as 4 strokers when it comes to crank seal failure. You can pretty much assume that Frontier did not search out the very best seals for these home owner saws. If I were you I would take ModifiedMark up on his offer.....in my dealings with Mark I have found him to be fair beyond reason. He likes to place things he no longer has any use for in a place to be used. But you know, as your fathers saying goes "If it ain't broke don't fix it" has traction...there is another saying that has equal traction...."You can lead a horse to water but you can't make him drink".
As Kevin said "It's your saw to with as you please"....I concur...

 

[edju1958]

BTW,I did make a deal with Modified Mark way before anyone herer posted & threw their 2 cents in.I'm just curious as to hopw many saws you guyus have & what brands they are?? Bob Johnson (who just passed away last month) once told me that of all the saws he worked on throughout the course of a yr.he maybe replaced crank seals on one or two.For those of you who didn't know Bob,he was a parts supplier of Pioneer,McCulloch,& Homelite & he also worked on saws in his shop.
I came here asking if anyone knew where I could find aftermarket crank seals for a 361 & I got a few of you to stand on your soapboxes & preach about your beliefs.There are other forums out there with members who are kinder.

 

[Cantdog]

BTW,I did make a deal with Modified Mark way before anyone herer posted & threw their 2 cents in.I'm just curious as to hopw many saws you guyus have & what brands they are?? Bob Johnson (who just passed away last month) once told me that of all the saws he worked on throughout the course of a yr.he maybe replaced crank seals on one or two.For those of you who didn't know Bob,he was a parts supplier of Pioneer,McCulloch,& Homelite & he also worked on saws in his shop.
I came here asking if anyone knew where I could find aftermarket crank seals for a 361 & I got a few of you to stand on your soapboxes & preach about your beliefs.There are other forums out there with members who are kinder.

Damn you got a thin skin!! As far as how many saws I have, suffice it to say that I used to have some of them listed in my sig but the moderators got after me as I was using up to much bandwidth. So now it just reads “a few red saws” I have no notion who Bob is but if he has only replaced two crank seals in his career, then he only worked on relatively new saws and didn’t get into the 30-50 year old stuff. This is understandable as folks in the business won’t touch anything that old nor would the average saw user want to put much money into an old saw. The advice you have received is accurate pertaining saws in the 30 year and older range. Rubber/ nitrile only lasts so long and we were just trying to save you grief as these are the age saws we have and work on. I always replace crank seals on any saw I have apart…. For less than $20 it is cheap insurance and peace of mind when trouble shooting a $4-500 saw. You learn these things when you are restoring a saw to a new as possible and dependable condition and not “just trying to get ‘er running”. As for your question about brand of saw I have, collect and work on…. Mostly pre 1980 Jonsereds and I have around 70 totally rebuilt or great running saws from the 49sp up to the 111S A few later Jonsered and Husky’s… a few old SXL Homies and even a 1-52 Mac that my BIL bought new in
1962.
I’m glad you struck a deal with Mark… I’m sure he used you well…. One of the good ones right there!

 

[Real1shepherd]

Amen to what Robin said. If you take the time and read back in this thread, nary an angry word has passed between members here over its long run. This is quite a different thread than say the AS Husky thread. Nobody is preaching anything.

I've seen quite a few crank seals leak under vacuum and pressure testing......especially on commercial saws. The idea here is to give good shop advice and conventional wisdom whenever we can. If someone buys a vintage saw for a lot of money and runs it too lean because he didn't get good advice about crank seals, then he's been short-changed. Simple as that.

You were also told that it's your saw and you can do whatever you want with it. That's hardly preaching. You got a good deal with Mark.....don't know what else you want from us. If you think Robin and I are gonna get on our knees and say your reluctance to replace crank seals in old saws is great advice, you may be waiting a bit....lol.

Kevin

 

[edju1958]

Maybe I came off as being a bit on the pissy side.I do apologize.I've been pissy since I found out that I got ripped off & quite a few of my saws have been stolen.I had at least 6 if not more 361s stolen,along with a great running 49SP (that was the 1st saw I ever replaced crank seals in).Not to mention my prize Mac SP125 & several bigger Homelites to boot.

 

[Cantdog]

M

Maybe I came off as being a bit on the pissy side.I do apologize.I've been pissy since I found out that I got ripped off & quite a few of my saws have been stolen.I had at least 6 if not more 361s stolen,along with a great running 49SP (that was the 1st saw I ever replaced crank seals in).Not to mention my prize Mac SP125 & several bigger Homelites to boot.

Well that just plain sucks.......Hardly anything I hate more than a thief....except maybe two thieves!!

 

[dboyd351]

I have some older saws, but not Jonsereds.
I will tell you I have been on this forum on and off for quite a while and both Kevin and Robin are very experienced and trusted mechanics of vintage saws. If you decide to dismiss their advice, you were doing so at your own peril.

 

[Cantdog]

Well that just plain sucks.......Hardly anything I hate more than a thief....except maybe two thieves!!

 

[xl130]

Hello. I have acquired a 520sp. At first glance I didn’t think much of the little saw as it was covered in grime and clearly rode hard and left out wet many moons ago. Much to my surprise it actually cleaned up and operates nicely.
I would like to overhaul the fuel hoses, impulse line as well as replace the spark plug wire. Before I go and pull the old coil wire, I figured it wise to consult the Jonsered experts on this as I have learned the hard way that not all coil wires can be replaced! Can the coil wire be unscrewed and replaced on these saws?

 

[steele_109]

I am certainly no expert, if i was the oiler problem mine has would be fixed.I didn't have to change my coil wire. I found some of the old ones are glued in. IF it doesn't want to twist out don't force it.You can take the boot of and put heat shrink over the wire and replace the boot with a new one and coil of wire that goes on the plug. If you break your wire of and have to clean it out of the coil you could be screwed.Some of those old coils had a little piece of wire sticking out,that went into the coil wire.If you break that off it's pretty much game over. Good luck, Those are good running little saws.

 

[Real1shepherd]

Yeah, I can't speak for that particular model, but I had an 80 coil HT lead that was NOT screwed in and ruined it trying to 'unscrew it'. But the OE replacement oddly enough, was a screw-in with the little metal post.

Given that I had that OE replacement, I didn't try any repair on the original....so I can't say if it's possible to repair.

Kevin