Never found a J'red scabbard longer than 28". I have just two....one the teeth cut up, the other OK.
Kevin
Jonsered Chainsaws
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Kevin
Oregon used to provide bar covers in red. I have one on a Jonsereds 621 I use infrequently.
FWIW, black doesn't look out of place either.
Mark
FWIW, black doesn't look out of place either.
Mark
I've seen pics of the Oregon covers, hard to tell if they're red or orange. maybe they made both. maybe I'll just get some more scrap firehose.
There's a company I bookmarked eons ago that sells custom bar scabbards. I always wanted to try some of those.....crazy expensive though. They might not have survived COVID commerce woes.
Kevin
Kevin
I've seen some crazy expensive leather ones, and some expensive fire hose ones like I make. I would have to find more fire hose. plastic is fine.
ordered 12 feet of really nice clean fire hose today so I guess I'll be rolling my own again. it's getting really hard to find the right diameter hose lately.
I think, this is the link I was thinking about;https://gvfireproducts.com/products/chain-saw-bar-cover?variant=1015768521
Spendy...but if it's not ballistic nylon/Kevlar....sharpened cutter teeth will trash it eventually. I don't see anywhere it says Kevlar or whatever.
With the, '3D printing is the greatest thing since sliced bread' crowd, these things ought to be easy to replicate. Probably take 4hrs to print, oh boy $$$ and then there's the copyright part with the brand logo. Who's gonna wanna risk the ire of Husky, for example?
Kevin
Spendy...but if it's not ballistic nylon/Kevlar....sharpened cutter teeth will trash it eventually. I don't see anywhere it says Kevlar or whatever.
With the, '3D printing is the greatest thing since sliced bread' crowd, these things ought to be easy to replicate. Probably take 4hrs to print, oh boy $$$ and then there's the copyright part with the brand logo. Who's gonna wanna risk the ire of Husky, for example?
Kevin
not gorgeous, but just over 2 dollars a foot, shipped. isn't going to wear through.
model 90. 24" bar and half full of fuel and oil. doesn't feel this heavy just playing with it but I'm sure it was a workout packing these up and down ridges in it's day.
looking for a nice hand guard for the 621. screw spacing should be 2-5/16" O.C. should look like the one in the pic I assume. mine just has 2 holes in the top cover. I think they're kind of ugly and they probably don't actually work well but would like it to be correct.
Most users(hard) back in the day took the hand guards off, or they busted out. If you were a firewood cutter in scrub oak, for example, they had some use. I never knew anyone(me included) who took one off and put it back on later.
Pro saws 100cc or more were heavier than the 90. You didn't think about that stuff then. If you complained about hard starting and heavy saws you were laughed off the loggin' shows. The direct drive ported saws were like feathers compared to the old gear drive MACs.
Kevin
Pro saws 100cc or more were heavier than the 90. You didn't think about that stuff then. If you complained about hard starting and heavy saws you were laughed off the loggin' shows. The direct drive ported saws were like feathers compared to the old gear drive MACs.
Kevin
I grew up on the Oregon coast in the 60's and 70's. logging, mills and commercial fishing were the only things going on. I knew a lot of kids whose parents were loggers and they pretty much all had Mac's. I can remember when the first few got Stihls and how crazy light they were. don't remember them using Jonsereds or Huskys but I'm sure some did.
When I hit the West Coast loggin' shows in the mid-70s, it was pretty much a sea of Stihls. Some MACs on the landings of course. I ran an 075 and thought it was pretty great until Husky came along. Husky took the loggin' world by storm with the 2100. Only the older guys kept their Stihls. I don't want to speak for them as to the why of it.
Husky actually sent their top Swedish engineer with prototypes for the 2100. He listened to what the loggers were saying and incorporated the changes suggested into the saw. As they say, the rest is history. I went through at least a dozen of them and the 2101 over the yrs before I quit loggin'.
Scotsco in Portland, OR sold Jonsereds. Never saw one in the woods though until I moved to CO and continued loggin' for a bit. That's where I bought my first 80 as a backup saw to the 2100. I had to deal with plenty of smaller timber where I could use an 80/90.
Kevin
Husky actually sent their top Swedish engineer with prototypes for the 2100. He listened to what the loggers were saying and incorporated the changes suggested into the saw. As they say, the rest is history. I went through at least a dozen of them and the 2101 over the yrs before I quit loggin'.
Scotsco in Portland, OR sold Jonsereds. Never saw one in the woods though until I moved to CO and continued loggin' for a bit. That's where I bought my first 80 as a backup saw to the 2100. I had to deal with plenty of smaller timber where I could use an 80/90.
Kevin
So I’m tearing down my 70E to put new seals, gaskets, etc. It’s always ran quite well & seemed to be a low hour saw. I was surprised to find these gouges below the intake on the cylinder. You can easily catch a nail on them.
The piston has no scoring but shows some wear.
Just curious as to what you guys would do? It’s just an occasional runner as I have plenty of other saws but I do like it & want to preserve it.
The piston has no scoring but shows some wear.
Just curious as to what you guys would do? It’s just an occasional runner as I have plenty of other saws but I do like it & want to preserve it.
If it were me.....I'd polish the cylinder with a drill mandrel/'Wigglesworth method' and the piston with the same brown industrial Scotchbrite by hand. Pop in a new Caber, start it up and smile. Especially in an occasionally used saw. If you get 150psi or more, you're golden.
Low hr saw scoring could have been from cold startups and immediately using the saw.....ya never really know with a PO saw unless ya know the guy and they fess up.
Kevin
Low hr saw scoring could have been from cold startups and immediately using the saw.....ya never really know with a PO saw unless ya know the guy and they fess up.
Kevin
Thanks Kevin,
If that works for you then it definitely will work for me. The rest of the cylinder looks fine.
It's kind of a time wh*re, but SAFE. The results are great and you even get cross-hatching. Use the same up & down drill motion you'd use with a ball hone.
Kevin
Thought I'd post this oddball. I am doing major reorganizing and have been rediscovering saws I've had and put out of my mind. Model 81s are obscure and maybe controversial.
The 81 is thought to be a 801 but geared for West Coast loggin' with the full-wrap. This has been argued a lot.....but it does look identical to the 801 except for the full wrap.
My favorite full-wrap configuration in that series. Aluminum and not too big, while not too small...perfect palm diameter. The rubber plug in the top cover where decomp goes on the 90....shows up on a lot in the 80 powerheads. Unobtainium AV on the PTO side.
Delightful oddity....wished I had one!
Tilton didn't list it so suspect it was a Scotsco animal.
Kevin
My favorite full-wrap configuration in that series. Aluminum and not too big, while not too small...perfect palm diameter. The rubber plug in the top cover where decomp goes on the 90....shows up on a lot in the 80 powerheads. Unobtainium AV on the PTO side.
Delightful oddity....wished I had one!
Tilton didn't list it so suspect it was a Scotsco animal.
Kevin
