never mind. was stuck to the cylinder, should have put my glasses on.
Jonsered Chainsaws
- Thread starter briantutt
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never mind. was stuck to the cylinder, should have put my glasses on.
wire wheeled and painted the muffler, cleaned out the fuel and oil tanks last night. put it all back together just now. dribbled some gas in the plug hole about 5 times. fired up and ran for a second or 2 each time, was even able to blip the throttle. sounds bad ***. was hoping the carb didn't need to be kitted but I guess it does.
pulled the carb and disassembled. didn't look too bad but I had some good soft diaphragms and gaskets from the SXL925 kit. shot carb cleaner through all the passages and put it back together, doing the same exact thing. fires and runs when premix dribbled into carb then dies. I didn't have a new check valve so didn't remove the welch plugs. maybe need to do that?
see photo. is there anything inside the plastic fuel line block that could be blocking fuel flow?
see photo. is there anything inside the plastic fuel line block that could be blocking fuel flow?
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What does your carb to isolation block gasket look like? Take a pic of it
If you haven't already removed that plastic block, go ahead and pull it off so you can replace the fuel line and filter in the tank and verify that the passage is open.
Mark
Mark
Wow...low hrs just pop out atcha!
I dunno what they have in Wisconsin other than cheese and trees.....
Yeah, Robin is referring to the carb casket that comes in all kits these days....it does not cover the impulse channel completely and you'll never get it to run right with that gasket. That's why he's asking to see what you have.
Kevin
That's a fuel feed and a vent block. Best to take it off like Mark suggested since it's easy to get to and make sure it's cleaned out. You should hear the check valve rattle slightly. You can blow on the fuel side too to make sure it's working.
Hedge your bet; use all new fuel and vent lines. Those look factory.
Kevin
No offense but it should have been cleaned(USC) and rebuild kit installed the first go around. It's sat forever, and most likely has some gummed/clogged passages and screens.
Kevin
As an FYI, there is metalized gasket material just to make exhaust gaskets. I have some, works great, hard to cut out.
Kevin
did not know about that but for future reference, thanks.
hi Robin. just took the carb off again. see pic. the gasket at the bottom is the stock one. it is paper thin, like less than typing paper thin but not torn or damaged. the one above is a new one from the Tillotson HS kit for my SXL 925. it overlays the stock Jonsereds 90 gasket perfectly but is a cork like material and WAY thicker. should I use the thick one?
hi Mark. I took the plastic block off this am. the vent gang valve is working, I had cleaned the fuel filter when I cleaned the fuel tank the other night but for sake of finding the problem I just installed a new fuel line and a new but crappy chinese plastic fuel filter I had.
hey, Kevin. I just installed a new in tank fuel line and filter. the one-way tank vent valve in the plastic block is working per the suck and blow test. I also just replaced the fuel line from the plastic block to the carb and replaced the fuel tank vent line. the sintered (or whatever it's called) copper bead filter at the end of the tank vent line looks like new and I installed it in the end of the new vent line. used all dirt bike fuel line for everything.
Yeah, I go down to the Honda Outdoor dealer here and buy all my fuel/vent lines there as needed. Never had an issue.
Kevin
I don`t spend much time on this thread but I do work on a lot of vintage/older saws from all makers. I have swapped coils between different makes of saws for many years just to keep some running where coils were real scarce or unobtainable for me. On the coils/modules that the high tension lead was glued in I have successfully removed the portion down in the well of the module housing using a dremel and tiny ball nose cutter, cutter head is only 1/16 dia on it. By being very careful and using medium RPM I could virtually cut around the center post down in the bottom of the well The rubber cuts easier on the outer skin of the high tension lead, the cutter bit cut the rubber and inner insulation fairly easy and I can tell where the cutter bit is just by feel. Once the outer layers are cut out the rest will come out easily using just a small set of needle nose pliers. I have done several this way and not damaged a center post so far, always figured it was worth a shot as the coil/module was not much use to me if I could not replace the high tension lead. Screw the replacement in and seal the junction with RTV has kept the moisture out for me.
nice filter as far as being sturdy and easy to clean. don't know how well they filter though.
def oiling the chain. may need to turn that down.
some small white oak. chains a bit loose. sorry about the sucky video. no experience to speak of.
I'm guessing Mark was correct that the fuel filter or line was clogged. guess I did a poor job of cleaning it. thanks to everyone in the thread for taking the time to help. this saw is awesome. what a deep growl with a ton of grunt and snappy throttle response. not a lightweight but not as heavy as I thought it would be. and that lovely decomp. starts super easy. finally, a big saw that I don't dread trying to start LOL.
