hmmm. there's a Sachs-Dolmar 133 Super just north of me..36" and 48" bars. doubt that could even run a 48" bar.
You may be surprised, I've heard they were rippers back in the day.hmmm. there's a Sachs-Dolmar 133 Super just north of me..36" and 48" bars. doubt that could even run a 48" bar.
They can run backwards too, I've heard.I've heard the same and that they had a butt load of torque and very high compression. don't think they had a compression release either . the ad says it is missing the fuel tank cap. my reading is that the fuel caps were fragile and now very hard to find.
Yep thru dat!!!They can run backwards too, I've heard.
Felt ones were better same configuration, but rarer and more expensive. Good nylon mesh was fine for these saws. No reason to move heaven & earth to find the felt ones. The cylinder hard coating is pretty impervious to fine sawdust......as witnessed by old Jonsereds with still high compression.nice filter as far as being sturdy and easy to clean. don't know how well they filter though.
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Depends on what you're cutting! As a pro, my oilers were always at max for the most part.....depends on bar length too. Try to adjust your oiler(if adjustable) to run out about the same time as the gas mix. My pro saws would run out of oil just before the gas mix....I could always tell by the way it was cutting and a sign that I was about to run out of gas mix.....so I'd stop and refill at that point.
Yes sir. 80/90/801/621....at least.my understanding is that on the 90, the oiler control is in the hole right of the dog.
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Great find/saw! Have one myself(see sig pic). Full-wrap handle simplifies that rather bizarre configuration. Full-wraps for that saw are not easy to find, however.I went to pick up a couple of flip saws from a guy I know. He points at a saw in the corner and says you interested in that one. The Turbo on the air cleaner caught my interest so I flipped it around. Seeing the 2094 on the recoil made me pretty happy! I says yup. I’m interested
I haven’t had a chance to give it a good inspection yet but it does look to be in good shape with like likely very little use. Appears ti have some of the same features as a 920/820 series. I’m not overly familiar with this model though. I’m sssuming this is still one of the “true” Jonsereds models or does this share any Husqvarna parts?
I changed the rim to a .375 & still it has the same problem.The clutch shoes are good & the clutch spring isn't broken.I lubed the bearing & the drum spins freely.All is good till I put the chain on it,then it binds.I've never had a bar & chain give me so much trouble
Run the chain on the bar by hand , check for binding at the tip and in the rails, you could have a buggered drive link or a bar issue . Eliminate that first then look at the saw drive components again .I changed the rim to a .375 & still it has the same problem.The clutch shoes are good & the clutch spring isn't broken.I lubed the bearing & the drum spins freely.All is good till I put the chain on it,then it binds.I've never had a bar & chain give me so much trouble.
There are no true large cc Jonsered saws after the 910e. That was the last. However, later on, there were Jonsered/Husky saws that differed from each other. Could be some old engineers from the old Jonsereds days influencing...who knows?I haven’t had a chance to give it a good inspection yet but it does look to be in good shape with like likely very little use. Appears ti have some of the same features as a 920/820 series. I’m not overly familiar with this model though. I’m sssuming this is still one of the “true” Jonsereds models or does this share any Husqvarna parts?
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