Leveraxe

[scalo]

Sounds to me like I should stick with my Helko Vario 2000

 

[computeruser]

I have a pile of Red oak rounds to play with and some birch aswell as some ash just waiting for it

It'll be on its way as soon as I get it boxed back up and get over to the post office!

I'll be interested to see how it does with the birch. I have a feeling that it might like birch better than it liked the stuff I threw at it.

 

[Finland]

Read The Instructions

It looks that the LEVERAXE is not so simple as one could think.
When you start to split the wood with the LEVERAXE, you better forget totally the old way with the wedges, conventional axes. I have now followed the writings about the experiences with LEVERAXE and I have found out that most probably the users have forgotten to read the instructions .
For example on the first page there are some pictures, taken by -------.
There I can very easily see that not even one strike is made as instructed in the booklet. Maybe later the next tester have used the same method. The LEVERAXE does not work like that. There is a small thing that you must realize before you start to split otherwise the result is zero. It is like driving the car, if you cannot start the engine you will not get anywhere.
I will try to explain the way how to split with LEVERAXE.
Initially, before you get more familiar with the technique strike to the LEFT side of the block. Imagine a line from the center of the block. Make your strike over the line on 90 degree angle(tangent) so that the blade hits the wood one or two inches from the edge of the wood. You must remember to LOOSEN your grip on the handle so that the blade can ROTATE, the handle MUST ROTATE in your hands, as well. If you hold the handle too tight and resist the blade from rotation, then the axe will not operate, because then it is like any other axe, wedge.
DO NOT STRIKE TO THE CENTER OF THE BLOCK. If you want to split a smaller block in two peaces, strike to the edge of the block, to the part where the bark is.
Just to remind you, LEVERAXE is a special tool for splitting purposes for blocks which are 25 to 33 centimeters long. (10-13 inches)
So far there has not happened any accidences with LEVERAXE. You must be very careful, that there is not any breakable objects , pets or persons on the left side from the blade, because the split can fly on very high speed from the block.
All what I am asking from you now. FORGET ALL THE PREVIOUS AXES. TRY TO REALIZE THE MECHANISM HOW THE LEVERAXE FUNCTIONS. If you do not realize that, then you will never get any result with it.
I told you the example of driving the car. I think, it is not the car´s fault if YOU cannot start the engine.
I am very willing to answer to your questions conserning the splittings. If you have any problems, let me know.
It might be handy to visit to my homepages every now and then . Look at the videos, try to get in to the system. The istructions can be found from there , too.
Do not give up too easily. This invention took about fifteen years from me to be ready. I fully understand if you do not realize the system with one or two strikes. It only took about four million years for this invention to come to daylight. First the axe was made of stone, today it is made of iron. It is still the same wedge where the power vanishes to the friction.
The friction is very minimun on LEVERAXE. On its best the friction is only the five millimeter part when the blade touches the wood. The next six to eight centimeters the blade gos in the air when it pushes the split away from the side of the block.(2-3 inches) All the power that was downwards a while a go is now to the left. All this happens fully automatically , you only must strike to the correct place and LOOSEN your grip on the handle.
I wish you all interesting and safe splitting experiences.
Regards
Heikki from FINLAND
www.vipukirves.fi
PS. Use soft gloves, leather or material.
DO NOT USE ANYTHING WITH RUBBER. This causes friction be-tween the handle and your hands.

 

[Dr. Hackemoff]

It looks that the LEVERAXE is not so simple as one could think.
When you start to split the wood with the LEVERAXE, you better forget totally the old way with the wedges, conventional axes. I have now followed the writings about the experiences with LEVERAXE and I have found out that most probably the users have forgotten to read the instructions .
For example on the first page there are some pictures, taken by -------.
There I can very easily see that not even one strike is made as instructed in the booklet. Maybe later the next tester have used the same method. The LEVERAXE does not work like that. There is a small thing that you must realize before you start to split otherwise the result is zero. It is like driving the car, if you cannot start the engine you will not get anywhere.
I will try to explain the way how to split with LEVERAXE.
Initially, before you get more familiar with the technique strike to the LEFT side of the block. Imagine a line from the center of the block. Make your strike over the line on 90 degree angle(tangent) so that the blade hits the wood one or two inches from the edge of the wood. You must remember to LOOSEN your grip on the handle so that the blade can ROTATE, the handle MUST ROTATE in your hands, as well. If you hold the handle too tight and resist the blade from rotation, then the axe will not operate, because then it is like any other axe, wedge.
DO NOT STRIKE TO THE CENTER OF THE BLOCK. If you want to split a smaller block in two peaces, strike to the edge of the block, to the part where the bark is.
Just to remind you, LEVERAXE is a special tool for splitting purposes for blocks which are 25 to 33 centimeters long. (10-13 inches)
So far there has not happened any accidences with LEVERAXE. You must be very careful, that there is not any breakable objects , pets or persons on the left side from the blade, because the split can fly on very high speed from the block.
All what I am asking from you now. FORGET ALL THE PREVIOUS AXES. TRY TO REALIZE THE MECHANISM HOW THE LEVERAXE FUNCTIONS. If you do not realize that, then you will never get any result with it.
I told you the example of driving the car. I think, it is not the car´s fault if YOU cannot start the engine.
I am very willing to answer to your questions conserning the splittings. If you have any problems, let me know.
It might be handy to visit to my homepages every now and then . Look at the videos, try to get in to the system. The istructions can be found from there , too.
Do not give up too easily. This invention took about fifteen years from me to be ready. I fully understand if you do not realize the system with one or two strikes. It only took about four million years for this invention to come to daylight. First the axe was made of stone, today it is made of iron. It is still the same wedge where the power vanishes to the friction.
The friction is very minimun on LEVERAXE. On its best the friction is only the five millimeter part when the blade touches the wood. The next six to eight centimeters the blade gos in the air when it pushes the split away from the side of the block.(2-3 inches) All the power that was downwards a while a go is now to the left. All this happens fully automatically , you only must strike to the correct place and LOOSEN your grip on the handle.
I wish you all interesting and safe splitting experiences.
Regards
Heikki from FINLAND
www.vipukirves.fi
PS. Use soft gloves, leather or material.
DO NOT USE ANYTHING WITH RUBBER. This causes friction be-tween the handle and your hands.

Heikki,

Thanks again for the information. I think we get the jist. As for me, I own no power splitter but I split 8-10 cords per year (I length-wise rip the biggest rounds with my chainsaw). I've used most every axe, maul, and wedge (I've destroyed a half dozen of those gimmicky grenade wedges too). One exception - my Helko Vario hasn't seen a log yet and is resting on display on my fireplace mantle. I'm saving up for a fiberglass-handled model which should see a lot of service. Sorry to digress...

From birth I have utilized a death grip whenever I handle a power tool, and to date the only injury I've sustained is a self-induced broken big toe when I accidently pushed my 12 pounder off a stump (hello six advils with an equal number of beers). So I can relate to users of your product when they render less-than-desirable results with your product. I simply do not like the concept of wielding an axe with a loose grip.

Here's a suggestion (not to junior engineer your product): Can you design a spring loaded (break away) just before the head to allow the user to maintain their grip? Just wondering.

Regards,
Da Hack

 

[Finland]

Heikki,

Thanks again for the information. I think we get the jist. As for me, I own no power splitter but I split 8-10 cords per year (I length-wise rip the biggest rounds with my chainsaw). I've used most every axe, maul, and wedge (I've destroyed a half dozen of those gimmicky grenade wedges too). One exception - my Helko Vario hasn't seen a log yet and is resting on display on my fireplace mantle. I'm saving up for a fiberglass-handled model which should see a lot of service. Sorry to digress...

From birth I have utilized a death grip whenever I handle a power tool, and to date the only injury I've sustained is a self-induced broken big toe when I accidently pushed my 12 pounder off a stump (hello six advils with an equal number of beers). So I can relate to users of your product when they render less-than-desirable results with your product. I simply do not like the concept of wielding an axe with a loose grip.

Here's a suggestion (not to junior engineer your product): Can you design a spring loaded (break away) just before the head to allow the user to maintain their grip? Just wondering.

Regards,
Da Hack

Hi!
Thank you for your reply to my writings. It will take some time for me to understand all, what you wrote, but I will return to those subjects later.
Now I want to say something about the safety features of the LEVERAXE.
So far there has not happened any accidenses with the LEVERAXE. The reason for this is that the blade always remains on the block after the strike or anyway the speed of the blade is so low that you can easily control the axe.
I started to develop this LEVERAXE because I experienced the conventional axes very dangerous and hard to work with . When you use the normal axe you newer know how far the blade gos. Too often it will continue it´s way to the foot of the person who is splitting. There is so much kinetic energy that you cannot stop the blade after a bad strike. My opinion is that even one accident is too much. In Finland happens every year more than 4000 different kind of accidenses. Too many of them happens when a person splits the wood.
With the VIPUKIRVES you do not have these problems because the blade stops it´s move on the block and does not go anywhere after the strike.
It will take a while to get the trust to the function but after you find out that you do not have to worry about the blade the splitting is a lot more enjoyable than ever before. By method: "Strike and loosen" you will fully avoid the concussion to your hands. That is why I do not see any point in making any spring loaded systems because it is quite essential to avoid all kind of shocks to your hands.
All the best
Heikki From FINLAND

 

[Mr. Firewood]

all I know is that I am excited to be able to test this axe out, it has intregued me for a while and as with most things on the internet you can not take them for a test drive before you purchase but if this axe does what I think it does then I will most likely buy one for at the house to go along with my Helco Vario

I like all that sacked firewood in the backround of the videos, do you have a suggestion for a source of the sacks?

 

[ericjeeper]

where is the axe?

Have not heard anything about it in a few weeks.. Anyone using it?

 

[computeruser]

Have not heard anything about it in a few weeks.. Anyone using it?

I screwed up and forgot to send it along. It'll be on its way shortly.

 

[Mr. Firewood]

wow, between the 6 of us we have wore the paint off of that axe, I like it. I have to figure out how to edit all this video so I can load it on you-tube, I figure I split about a cord and a half (5 ricks) with it, after the first rick I got the hang of it and could knock silver maple and red oak apart as fast as the helpers would bring it pm me if you would like the axe shipped to you and I will get it out within the next week or so

 

[Adkpk]

I give it a try. I pm'ed you.

 

[ericjeeper]

Glad to hear someone finally figured out how to make it work..

Keep it moving around . I will be interested in the video link as soon as you get it posted. Thanks

 

[MS-310]

I really think pure power and some time using an maul or axe is going to be the best way to split wood.....I do have a homemade spliter just for elm....But that cheap maul from ACE hardware has split alot, about 25 cords, 3 handles and some grinding it works great.

But I would like to find some one close to me that has that helko axe so I could try it.

Now that 12lb wedge that thing is a brute, dam I dont care for them.

 

[bob621]

leveraxe and alternatives

I've used a maul, axes of various heritages and sizes (but not any of those nice Scandinavian models) and my Dad's monster maul. They all work, more or less, but I am interested in this idea from Finland of something different than weight driving a wedge.

I've been using a Chopper 1 (google chopperaxe) for almost 20 years. Last year did 5 cords with one of these. My only complaint would be that the current model had a wood rather than firglass handle.

I think the principle of operation has some similarities to the leveraxe. Finland, what do you think?

 

[Finland]

LEVERAXE/ chopperaxe

I've used a maul, axes of various heritages and sizes (but not any of those nice Scandinavian models) and my Dad's monster maul. They all work, more or less, but I am interested in this idea from Finland of something different than weight driving a wedge.

I've been using a Chopper 1 (google chopperaxe) for almost 20 years. Last year did 5 cords with one of these. My only complaint would be that the current model had a wood rather than firglass handle.

I think the principle of operation has some similarities to the leveraxe. Finland, what do you think?

Hello Bob 621
The chopper 1 is still a wedge, though it has some extra parts on both sides. I have used and destroyed two of those Copper type of axes and I experienced them to be very hard to work because of heavy weight. The result did not satisfy me . The original one, I think, is called SUPERSPALTER from Canada. The copy was made in China. I have both of those, but they are without the extra parts, because the mechanism was not strong enough. I think I purchased the first one sometimes on 1980.
The form of the LEVERAXE is onesided, all the weight is on the right side. When the blade hits the wood, it penetrates to the block only about 5 millimeters and bends to the right. This was the friction part. Then the blade puches the split away up to eight (8) centimeters (3+ inches) from the block, because of the kinetic energy. Then the blade stops on the block. All this happens very fast.
My opinnion is that there are no similarities be-tween the wedge-type axes and the LEVERAXE. Maybe the wooden handle, but I think you did not mean that. Go to my homepages and see the wideos.( GOOGLE VIPUKIRVES)
Regards FINLAND

 

[bob621]

Hello Bob 621
The chopper 1 is still a wedge, though it has some extra parts on both sides. I have used and destroyed two of those Copper type of axes and I experienced them to be very hard to work because of heavy weight. The result did not satisfy me . The original one, I think, is called SUPERSPALTER from Canada. The copy was made in China. I have both of those, but they are without the extra parts, because the mechanism was not strong enough. I think I purchased the first one sometimes on 1980.
The form of the LEVERAXE is onesided, all the weight is on the right side. When the blade hits the wood, it penetrates to the block only about 5 millimeters and bends to the right. This was the friction part. Then the blade puches the split away up to eight (8) centimeters (3+ inches) from the block, because of the kinetic energy. Then the blade stops on the block. All this happens very fast.
My opinnion is that there are no similarities be-tween the wedge-type axes and the LEVERAXE. Maybe the wooden handle, but I think you did not mean that. Go to my homepages and see the wideos.( GOOGLE VIPUKIRVES)
Regards FINLAND

Thank you for your note. Like the leveraxe, the chopper does not penetrate very far into the wood. For that reason, it rarely gets stuck. It is much lighter than either my standard maul, or my father's "Monster Maul". It is heavier than my axe, though.

If the leveraxe is significantly lighter, I am interested in trying it.

I have one question. I burn my wood in a Tarm, for which the recommended length is 18". Will that be a problem for leveraxe?

I think the leveraxe principle is also similar to a technique in using an axe to split. In that, as the axe hits the wood, the user twists the handle, so that the blade is pushing sideways as wells as down as it enters the wood. I think the leveraxe does this automatically in a consistent way.

 

[ShoerFast]

I like the saying , "You learn something every day" .

From the video,
Never occurred to me that putting wood in a tire would be such a handy item, if you really want a lot of smaller splits.

Had a couple orders for campfire bundles and some for a chimania, what short work in a tire!

 

[Finland]

18"

Thank you for your note. Like the leveraxe, the chopper does not penetrate very far into the wood. For that reason, it rarely gets stuck. It is much lighter than either my standard maul, or my father's "Monster Maul". It is heavier than my axe, though.

If the leveraxe is significantly lighter, I am interested in trying it.

I have one question. I burn my wood in a Tarm, for which the recommended length is 18". Will that be a problem for leveraxe?

I think the leveraxe principle is also similar to a technique in using an axe to split. In that, as the axe hits the wood, the user twists the handle, so that the blade is pushing sideways as wells as down as it enters the wood. I think the leveraxe does this automatically in a consistent way.

Hello bob 621
The weight of the LEVERAXE is 2,5 kolograms (5+ pounds)
It is made specially to the lenght of 10 inches for any type of wood you can find in Finland.
I have splitted a lot of wood that is 20 inches long. So it depends much of the guality and the structure of the block. In wintertime when the wood is frozen, I have splitted one meter long blocks (30 inches)
I am not familiar with the trees you have there, but I think that in northern parts of the continent we have same type of the trees.
You are guite tight, The functions of the LEVERAXE is fully automatic. All you have to do, is to loosen your grip at the end of the hit. and let the laws of physics to operate. The handle will rotate in your hands and does not hurt your wrists at all.
Regards FINLAND

 

[Finland]

Tire

I like the saying , "You learn something every day" .

From the video,
Never occurred to me that putting wood in a tire would be such a handy item, if you really want a lot of smaller splits.

Had a couple orders for campfire bundles and some for a chimania, what short work in a tire!

Hi
Be careful when using a tire with a traditional, conventional axe, because it penetrates all the way throw the block. Sooner or later there will be a split under the handle and there is achanse to cut the handle or get a heavy concussion to your hands.
The LEVERAXE always remains on the block, it newer gos through the block
Regards FINLAND

 

[bob621]

best use of old tires

Old tires are especially good for doing smaller diameter rounds. I bolt a couple of tires together and put that on top of a flat rock. Any splitting device (like the leveraxe) won't penetrate through to the stone, but the rock ensures that none of the impact is damped by earth. And you don't have to lift the block that you are splitting any higher than the height of a tire (or two).

If you use a maul or axe with a tire, it's better to use one with a fiberglass handle, and to have the base be something that won't hurt the blade of the maul or axe, or to use at least two tires - the tires may stop the handle, and so keep the blade from hitting the ground/rock.

 

[Finland]

Inquiry

wow, between the 6 of us we have wore the paint off of that axe, I like it. I have to figure out how to edit all this video so I can load it on you-tube, I figure I split about a cord and a half (5 ricks) with it, after the first rick I got the hang of it and could knock silver maple and red oak apart as fast as the helpers would bring it pm me if you would like the axe shipped to you and I will get it out within the next week or so

Hi!
Can the video be seen already? Where?
Where is THE LEVERAXE now?
Regards Finland