log splitter has no pressure to split

[Code3dragon]

The fact that the cylinder moves at all means that the engine is turning the pump, the pump is operational, the coupler is intact and the control valve is working. So there can really only be one cause for no force and that is that something is preventing the buildup of high pressure. There are many good ideas on this thread already. It wouldn't be a filter because a restricted filter will affect the rate of flow but won't prevent a buildup of pressure.

A pump that is too large will stall the engine. So if your engine isn't dying or a belt slipping that isn't the problem.

The most inexpensive way to troubleshoot this difficulty will be to acquire a hydraulic guage. Get a gauge and an assortment of fittings that will allow you to place it at certain points in the system. You will want one that goes to about 3000 psi. These are readily available from places that sell splitter components, Northern Tool, probably Tractor Supply Company and a myriad of online sellers. First place I would put it is in the line that goes to the cylinder feed for the forward position (ie, the rear of the cylinder.) If you have pressure there when you move the control to the split position then the problem is your cylinder. If you don't have pressure there, put the gauge in the output line of your pump. If you don't have pressure there, then you have a bad pump. And so forth. For most of these checks you want to have the gauge at the end of the line and not teed into the line as any problem downstream will cause a low reading. Once you have located and corrected your problem, you can tee the gauge into your system to keep track of what kind of pressures you are operating at.

This may sound like a lot of hassle but it will keep you from "shotgunning" which is changing out parts until you happen to find the correct trouble.

The cylinder not working means it needs rebuild or replace, a pump not putting out pressure could be several causes as simple as adjustment or as serious as replacement. If you have pressure at the pump, but not at the cylinder, then the problem is in your valve which is either internally leaking or bypassing a pressure relief if it has one. Based on your symptoms, my "guess" would be that it is the cylinder but I would check with the gauge first. Let us know what you find

 

[Code3dragon]

Fear of pavement. That's a great thread. I have a log splitter that works perfectly with the exception of: I got the hydraulic oil heated up (because it was low) and now, although it goes through it's full range extending and retracting, it doesn't have enough hydraulic pressure to do anything but put a dent in the wood. I took off the pump and everything looks fine. Reinstalled it, changed the hydraulic oil and filter. Still the same. I'm going to try to adjust the pressure before replacing the pump. Any ideas? Would heating the hydraulic oil ruin the pump?

 

[fearofpavement]

Fear of pavement. That's a great thread. I have a log splitter that works perfectly with the exception of: I got the hydraulic oil heated up (because it was low) and now, although it goes through it's full range extending and retracting, it doesn't have enough hydraulic pressure to do anything but put a dent in the wood. I took off the pump and everything looks fine. Reinstalled it, changed the hydraulic oil and filter. Still the same. I'm going to try to adjust the pressure before replacing the pump. Any ideas? Would heating the hydraulic oil ruin the pump?

It "could" damage the pump. If you follow the procedures in the thread of troubleshooting the system you'll save time and effort in the long run as you'll find out exactly which component is giving you trouble rather than messing with all of them.

 

[TRTermite]

I am CERTAIN you will find that the cylinder is Weak and bypassing some Hyd, fluid .. Just enough that the pump stays in the high volume low pressure stage and the pump can't build up enough pressure to kick into the High pressure low volume stage.

 

[TRTermite]

One way to check the cylinder is to leave the extend hose/line hooked to the cylinder and plug the retract hose/line between the cylinder and valve. You should see the hose get really stiff when you max the cylinder travel 'cuz there is no path for the oil to cycle through to the valve - tank. If you want to be sure put a pressure gauge anywhere after the valve ..

 

[TRTermite]

If I am correct you will need to reseal your cylinder. A picture of the cylinder will help (IF NEEDED)to tell you how to take it a part and get it back together. A lot of people will say you need to hone the cylinder regardless but I will agree for the sake of perfection yet throw a suggestion to just keep it ALL CLEAN and replace all of the packing seals and oil rings and skip the honing part.. The gland packing and seal and O rings are probably OK as it really never really gets a good workout like the piston seals but whilst you Have it apart I would replace them (If it was mine).

 

[TRTermite]

Keep Us Posted what you do and what the culprit was. Some day someone else will most likely read this thread and You will save them a lot of second guessing.

 

[Code3dragon]

I am CERTAIN you will find that the cylinder is Weak and bypassing some Hyd, fluid .. Just enough that the pump stays in the high volume low pressure stage and the pump can't build up enough pressure to kick into the High pressure low volume stage.

The splitter is a Troy built 27Ton. No homemade parts. I'll check on the gauges depending on cost, I may just rebuild the cylinder.

 

[TRTermite]

The splitter is a Troy built 27Ton. No homemade parts. I'll check on the gauges depending on cost, I may just rebuild the cylinder.

Just a plug (Male) or cap (Female) to terminate the return line will put the pump to the relief pressure and you will see/hear the difference. That may not be possible, seeing the splitter layout. your pic is of the wrong side to see much. I have no doubt it is the cylinder and have fixed more than a few cylinders . I suggested the gauge to give you peace of mind if some body throws you a "YA BUTT" and you wish to be dead certain what the issue is.

 

[fearofpavement]

This will work and locate your problem. Find some fittings to adapt it to what you have. May take several fittings daisy chained together.
https://www.amazon.com/Measureman-H...t=&hvlocphy=9010920&hvtargid=pla-873138210940

 

[sean donato]

Just a plug (Male) or cap (Female) to terminate the return line will put the pump to the relief pressure and you will see/hear the difference. That may not be possible, seeing the splitter layout. your pic is of the wrong side to see much. I have no doubt it is the cylinder and have fixed more than a few cylinders . I suggested the gauge to give you peace of mind if some body throws you a "YA BUTT" and you wish to be dead certain what the issue is.

DO NOT BLOCK OFF THE RETURN PORT! Return ports are not high pressure ports! Most aren't rated for more then 200 psi.
You need to block a work port To test relief. Or stall the cylinder. Gauge goes after the pump before the valve.

 

[Code3dragon]

This will work and locate your problem. Find some fittings to adapt it to what you have. May take several fittings daisy chained together.
https://www.amazon.com/Measureman-H...t=&hvlocphy=9010920&hvtargid=pla-873138210940

You guys are awesome. I'm a mechanic ( about 25 big blocks and double that on small blocks) but zero experience on hydraulics. I might have a gauge, but they're cheap enough that I could buy one too. I'll let you guys know. Thanks a ton. Btw, I can't rebuild a lawn mower engine either.

 

[TRTermite]

DO NOT BLOCK OFF THE RETURN PORT! Return ports are not high pressure ports! Most aren't rated for more then 200 psi.
You need to block a work port To test relief. Or stall the cylinder. Gauge goes after the pump before the valve.

There is Your "YA BUTT" The return line is """AFTER THE VALVE" Back to the Tank. Think about it. This is a 2 way valve and the "RETRACT line/circuit IS a WORKING PORT/Circuit. If this keeps dragging on I will revert back to my "QUIET PEANUT GALLERY"

 

[TRTermite]

You need to block a work port To test relief. Or stall the cylinder.

This is exactly what will Happen when the Hyd. fluid cannot complete the circuit and the "RETRACT" (I never said "RETURN") circuit is blocked for diagnosing low pressure issues. This will simulate a "STALLED CYLINDER" and Pinpoint the cylinder as the weak link.
Edit; I Did say return in post 29 but did say retract in post 25 forgive me and the dyslexia that forgot to say what I meant not what I said in post #29. It DOES MAKE a BIG difference.

 

[Code3dragon]

There is Your "YA BUTT" The return line is """AFTER THE VALVE" Back to the Tank. Think about it. This is a 2 way valve and the "RETRACT line/circuit IS a WORKING PORT/Circuit. If this keeps dragging on I will revert back to my "QUIET PEANUT GALLERY"

Okay, gonna work on it today. The cylinder was very strong before it was ran low on hydraulic oil. And the oil reached a temperature that you could keep your bare hand on the cylinder with no problem. I would guess about 140 degrees. But it was a strong cylinder before that. I think that checking pressures will tell me a lot.

 

[TRTermite]

If you have a hydraulic jack you could stand your splitter up , place jack on base (?)plate , bring wedge down to jack (might want to put something to protect sharp edge of wedge) , then take line off extend end of cylinder and cap the cylinder fitting (JIC ?10?) , Jack the ram/wedge/shaft back into the cylinder barrel . If jack will shove ram into barrel that tells you the fluid is bypassing internally And that will confirm your cylinder needs a working over. This is assuming your jack is big enough .Good luck.

 

[Code3dragon]

If you have a hydraulic jack you could stand your splitter up , place jack on base (?)plate , bring wedge down to jack (might want to put something to protect sharp edge of wedge) , then take line off extend end of cylinder and cap the cylinder fitting (JIC ?10?) , Jack the ram/wedge/shaft back into the cylinder barrel . If jack will shove ram into barrel that tells you the fluid is bypassing internally And that will confirm your cylinder needs a working over. This is assuming your jack is big enough .Good luck.

Sounds like a good idea. Which line should I cap off? The incoming pressure line, closest to the end of the cylinder without the wedge?

 

[TRTermite]

Sounds like a good idea. Which line should I cap off? The incoming pressure line, closest to the end of the cylinder without the wedge?

Yes, Has to be leak proof under pressure. So a regular steel fitting cap .

 

[sean donato]

This is exactly what will Happen when the Hyd. fluid cannot complete the circuit and the "RETRACT" (I never said "RETURN") circuit is blocked for diagnosing low pressure issues. This will simulate a "STALLED CYLINDER" and Pinpoint the cylinder as the weak link.
Edit; I Did say return in post 29 but did say retract in post 25 forgive me and the dyslexia that forgot to say what I meant not what I said in post #29. It DOES MAKE a BIG difference.

Look buddy, I wasn't peeing on your parade, I worked heavy duty diesel for most my life, and as part of that it included a fair bit of hydraulic systems maintenance and repair.
I appreciate you helping a fellow member out, but will call out wrong info when I see it. On top of that you pitched a 2 reply I didn't say that fit, when you clearly did. Carry on, I'll not respond to this thread any longer.

 

[TRTermite]

Look buddy, I wasn't peeing on your parade, I worked heavy duty diesel for most my life, and as part of that it included a fair bit of hydraulic systems maintenance and repair.
I appreciate you helping a fellow member out, but will call out wrong info when I see it. On top of that you pitched a 2 reply I didn't say that fit, when you clearly did. Carry on, I'll not respond to this thread any longer.

I made the edit to say I made a mis statement. Just short of an apology. I will go the next step and "I apologize for sounding like a JERK" You did the right thing because I did say "RETURN" on post 29 and that could have misled someone now or in the future into trouble. It would be best for the OP if you continue commenting as you did set a wrong statement right and Yes I believe he appreciates all the help he gets.