Log splitter dump valve installation and pressure adjustment questions

[ChoppyChoppy]

Here is the system. Comes off the pump into the ram valve on the left. Then into the flow control. I believe it splits and let’s half the fluid go back and the other half goes through the log lift valve. Then that goes back into the tank as well. So it goes from a 3/4” id hose to two 1/2” id hoses back into the tank. Only downfall I see is if the fluid coming off the ram is not being able to pass out through the flow control fast enough. So the hose coming out of the left side of the flow control could be bigger?
I don’t think the system is over heating. 180 degrees is HOT. The splitting force doesn’t fall off and I feel no shudder after hours of splitting. My main want is a little more splitting force out of the system without changing the ram. I also believe with 5-800 more psi I can get there. Thank for the input.

You'll need to know the flow rate of the pump to check on hose sizing

 

[Socalmisfit]

You'll need to know the flow rate of the pump to check on hose sizing

22gpm, everything is 3/4 into the flow control valve. Then 1/2 inch out of that and 1/2 inch out of the log lift valve. I tried to order an adjustable release valve for the ram valve but it was the wrong one. The guy at the shop I tried to order it from asked what valve I had and I sent some pictures. He didn’t have the right valve but he sent me some pics of my valve parts break down and showed me where to shim it to add pressure. I added 2 1/4” washers on top of what was there and got the pressure up to 2800psi I used the splitter yesterday and it was exactly what I wanted it to do. With the calculations I should have bumped up from 25000lbs to 35000lbs. I also took some temp readings with my thermometer and after 3 hrs was at 160 degrees. Before I put in the shims the day before I used it for 4 hrs and was taking readings the whole time. Was up at 170-180, so it all helped. I appreciate all the feedback and as long as temps stay where they are I’m good, splitters bitchin. I am now gonna save up for a dump valve so my recoil is faster, so I can get the pusher out of the way quicker .

 

[ChoppyChoppy]

22gpm, everything is 3/4 into the flow control valve. Then 1/2 inch out of that and 1/2 inch out of the log lift valve. I tried to order an adjustable release valve for the ram valve but it was the wrong one. The guy at the shop I tried to order it from asked what valve I had and I sent some pictures. He didn’t have the right valve but he sent me some pics of my valve parts break down and showed me where to shim it to add pressure. I added 2 1/4” washers on top of what was there and got the pressure up to 2800psi I used the splitter yesterday and it was exactly what I wanted it to do. With the calculations I should have bumped up from 25000lbs to 35000lbs. I also took some temp readings with my thermometer and after 3 hrs was at 160 degrees. Before I put in the shims the day before I used it for 4 hrs and was taking readings the whole time. Was up at 170-180, so it all helped. I appreciate all the feedback and as long as temps stay where they are I’m good, splitters bitchin. I am now gonna save up for a dump valve so my recoil is faster, so I can get the pusher out of the way quicker .

That flow control seems to be plumbed strange to me, unless I'm not looking at it correctly. I'm by no means a hydraulic expert though.

The splitter cylinder valve to tank flows to the flow control on a 3/4" line, but then the flow control goes to tank on a 1/2" line?
That should be 3/4" as well.

For 22gpm, 3/4" hose is fine. The lines to the splitter cylinder should be 3/4" as well.

Put a pressure guage on your splitter control valve.

If cylinder return pressure is low, like under ~500psi, a pilot operated check valve isn't going to make any noticeable difference.
Only way it'll help is if your control valve, lines and/or fittings aren't sized large enough, which on a cylinder with a large rod (high retract flow) can be an issue.

4" cylinder and 2" rod at 22gpm is only about 28 gpm return. Most common splitter valves are 25-30gpm rated.

Stick a gauge on it and test before tossing parts into it.

Between fittings, hoses and a valve, you'll easily be into it $300.

 

[Socalmisfit]

That flow control seems to be plumbed strange to me, unless I'm not looking at it correctly. I'm by no means a hydraulic expert though.

The splitter cylinder valve to tank flows to the flow control on a 3/4" line, but then the flow control goes to tank on a 1/2" line?
That should be 3/4" as well.

For 22gpm, 3/4" hose is fine. The lines to the splitter cylinder should be 3/4" as well.

Put a pressure guage on your splitter control valve.

If cylinder return pressure is low, like under ~500psi, a pilot operated check valve isn't going to make any noticeable difference.
Only way it'll help is if your control valve, lines and/or fittings aren't sized large enough, which on a cylinder with a large rod (high retract flow) can be an issue.

4" cylinder and 2" rod at 22gpm is only about 28 gpm return. Most common splitter valves are 25-30gpm rated.

Stick a gauge on it and test before tossing parts into it.

Between fittings, hoses and a valve, you'll easily be into it $300.

On the flow control it looks like it gets split, so half goes to the tank and half goes to the log lift. Than the other side of the log lift valve goes into the tank. I could change to 3/4 on the side that goes to the tank and leave the log lift alone, or just change everything to 3/4. The return cycle on the cylinder is about 500 psi on the gauge.

 

[Del_]

It looks to me like a good solution would be to place a manual high pressure ball valve that drains back to the tank between the splitter ram control valve and the log lift valve.

Close that valve when you need to use the log lift circuit.

No way that the whole flow should go through 3/4 plumbing just to be restricted to 1/2 plumbing. There is pressure being created between the 3/4 and 1/2 and that back pressure directly reduces the splitting cylinder's splitting power.

Just rewording what Choppy said.

 

[ChoppyChoppy]

On the flow control it looks like it gets split, so half goes to the tank and half goes to the log lift. Than the other side of the log lift valve goes into the tank. I could change to 3/4 on the side that goes to the tank and leave the log lift alone, or just change everything to 3/4. The return cycle on the cylinder is about 500 psi on the gauge.

I'd think it should be 3/4". If you have the flow control dialed down, as it likely would be, that means most of the return flow is through the 1/2" line.

I put a pilot operated check valve on my setup, but it was hitting relief pressure on the return. I actually had to lower the pressure relief as it'd almost stall the 35hp diesel.
Splitter valve rated to 30 gpm, but return stroke was something like 75 gpm.

I took it from an ~8 second cycle to about 4.5 simply by sizing the plumbing to the flow.

No idea why Blockbuster doesn't set them up properly from the start.
There's no way 1/2" and 5/8" lines are fine for ~75 gpm.

 

[Socalmisfit]

I'd think it should be 3/4". If you have the flow control dialed down, as it likely would be, that means most of the return flow is through the 1/2" line.

I put a pilot operated check valve on my setup, but it was hitting relief pressure on the return. I actually had to lower the pressure relief as it'd almost stall the 35hp diesel.
Splitter valve rated to 30 gpm, but return stroke was something like 75 gpm.

I took it from an ~8 second cycle to about 4.5 simply by sizing the plumbing to the flow.

No idea why Blockbuster doesn't set them up properly from the start.
There's no way 1/2" and 5/8" lines are fine for ~75 gpm.

Yeah wouldn’t be too much to change it, it is 3/4 off the flow control to the lift valve. Might be worth it to change both to 3/4.

 

[SemperFiSawguy]

Do any of you know how to figure out what cracking pressure and pilot ratio too use on a pilot to open operated check valve for a log splitter..? Im not buying one from splitez because he is exteemly rude and was out of stock anyway for both of his valves.

As far as ive read a 3:1 with a 30psi cracking pressure seems to be ideal no?