Log splitter pump mounting question

[triptester]

A pump mounted above the oil level will work but is not the prefered location.

 

[ray benson]

We put my 2 stage Haldex pump on in 1987.The bottom of the pump is about 4 or 5 inches above the oil level. Did it that way so the pump could be removed without making a mess.But never had to remove it. I may change it so the pump is below the oil level if the motor and pump ever goes bad.

 

[triptester]

I put a full flow valve on the suction outlet so I could experiment with different pumps with out draining the tank.

 

[sdnomad]

MGA, I don't quite understand what you are saying with the inlet line dropping 1" to the bottom of the tank. Are you saying the inlet should be mounted to the top of the tank and a pipe inside the inlet should run to about 1" off the bottom of the tank, instead of just dumping the return fluid in the top of the tank? Sounds like a good idea.

And what is the baffle? Is that a plate inside the center of the tank with a couple of large holes in it? What kind of difference does the baffle make?

Also, I have another question. I have the wheels on and the beam mounted and the top of the beam (splitting bed) is 29" from the ground. Is that too tall?

Thanks,
Doug

heh...amen!

also, when designing your tank, the inlet line should drop to about 1" to the bottom of the tank. you should have a baffle in the tank as well.....AND your suction line should be at least 1" off the bottom of the tank so that it doesn't draw any particles that might be in there.

the baffle prevents turbulence inside the tank and having the return line drop to the bottom prevents bubbles.

 

[blackdoggy]

I see a few very slight problems you might have, 1.Your push plate looks a little thin 2. You might want to move your valve to one side or the other so it is not on top of the cylinder my friends splitter is like this and it developed a crack in the little pipe after he hit it with a log 3. Your wedge wings might be over kill 4. You might want to level off your cylinder to prevent your rod from bending. I am far from an expert but this is a few problems I know about that has happened to other people take my advice with a grain of sand I am not an expert.

 

[mga]

MGA, I don't quite understand what you are saying with the inlet line dropping 1" to the bottom of the tank. Are you saying the inlet should be mounted to the top of the tank and a pipe inside the inlet should run to about 1" off the bottom of the tank, instead of just dumping the return fluid in the top of the tank? Sounds like a good idea.

And what is the baffle? Is that a plate inside the center of the tank with a couple of large holes in it? What kind of difference does the baffle make?

Also, I have another question. I have the wheels on and the beam mounted and the top of the beam (splitting bed) is 29" from the ground. Is that too tall?

Thanks,

Doug

that's exactly what i'm saying. let the return pipe drop inside the tank so that it ends about 1" off the bottom. do NOT just allow the fluid to drop in the tank.

yes, the baffle should be about 3/4 of the height of your tank and you can either cut the bottom corners out about 1" each or put some large holes in it. the baffle will prevent turbulence. you want the oil to pass over the top of the baffle. the holes in the corners are in case the oil runs low. using a baffle is a good idea. if you can still do it put at least one in there. from the size of your tank you can put two of them in there. the baffle also helps keep air bubbles and debris away from the suction line.

as for the height of your beam....stand next to the machine as if you are going to split wood. you should not be bent over or hunched over but standing normal....your back will thank you after a couple of hours! make it to a height that suits you...there is no standard for that. it's your machine man, make it yours.

the thing looks great!! keep the photos coming so we can see the progress.

 

[sdnomad]

Thanks for your help. I made need to beef up the push plate, but will see. Everything is pretty much fit together loosely right now. The ram is just laying on the beam. Thats why its at an angle. I'm just trying to figure our how everything is going to be routed before I start bolting and welding everything in place.

I see a few very slight problems you might have, 1.Your push plate looks a little thin 2. You might want to move your valve to one side or the other so it is not on top of the cylinder my friends splitter is like this and it developed a crack in the little pipe after he hit it with a log 3. Your wedge wings might be over kill 4. You might want to level off your cylinder to prevent your rod from bending. I am far from an expert but this is a few problems I know about that has happened to other people take my advice with a grain of sand I am not an expert.

 

[drmiller100]

for sure the pump can be higher then the oil level.

and for sure you can use a 1 inch suction line if your pump is 4 feet lower then your tank.

but if you scrimp on the suction line, then raise the tank.

like the man said, have the return line enter into the tank low, but not pointed at the suction line. the goal is make the oil swirl or something so the air bubbles rise to the top, and don't just get sucked down instantly into the suction line.

 

[blackdoggy]

I just got done cutting some computer cases up that had some nice sheets that would make good baffles. I saved them and I am hoping to either use a few of them for my tank or sell them for $1.00 or less lol.

 

[mga]

Thanks for your help. I made need to beef up the push plate, but will see. Everything is pretty much fit together loosely right now. The ram is just laying on the beam. Thats why its at an angle. I'm just trying to figure our how everything is going to be routed before I start bolting and welding everything in place.

i sent you a PM........

 

[cabinman]

actually, filters won't work on the suction side anyways. the filters you buy for splitters have a relief valve in them...in case they get clogged...to by-pass the filter. on the suction side, the amount of suction would always keep that valve open....rendering the filter completely useless.

once again....people shouldn't even consider a filter on the suction side...ever.

Ok, I think I should have used the words (suction strainer) instead of filter, If you google hydraulic suction strainer, you will find dozens of companys who make them, If you are a welder you have noticed the little weld bb:s on the table after finishing a project, Iam investing a lot of money and time in my power unit and dont want it munchin on weld matter or any other foreign matter, The filter cost about 30 bucks with shiping, Ive heard some pros and cons to using a suction filter before, I understand the cavitation issue and so do the filter companys, thats why they have so many micron choices, If you buy a filter thats to fine for the temps or use oil thats to thick you will have cavitation issues,.I spec my filters with at least 25% more flow than pump specs, For cold weather 10 w oil, and 10 micron filter,. If you use it in the summer months use 10/30w, If its REAL cold and you are running the 10/30w you might run a oil heater,on the filtered systems, if its in the COLD belt, once you fire it up, it will stay warm and your good to go,.. A HUGE plus for the hard to start rope pull engines, I use the in tank heater, But a quick/cheep add on heater can be made with a couple of the elactric tape heaters they make to wrap around water pipes to keep from freezing, wrap em tight, duct tape them down tight, and throw an old coat over it , and for the guys having troble starting the little pull ropers you are going to love it, pull it over slow to get the warm oil to the pump, when the warm oil gets threw the pump, It will pull and start much easier,.. OH YEA,.. Wrap the heat tape around the tank,..not the hoses, and be sure its tight,. NO,. air gaps for good results,..

 

[cabinman]

This is from my FLUID POWER CERTIFIED engineer there is no need for a suction side filter unless you want to cavitate the pump. Your best bet is to CLEAN the tank before you start adding fluid and use a return line filter and a suction strainer and plenty of baffling in your tank. The majority of trash that enters a tank comes from the cylinder and the filler/breather so if you filter both when you start with a clean tank you will be all set.
And for all of you wondering how trash can come in through a cylinder it is very simple a cylinder gathers crud on the rod and the rod is mostly cleaned as it comes in but tinny particles can get past the wiper and seals and enter the system.

Blackdoggy, Re read my last post,. maybe the first line twice,..I staited maybe I should have typed strainer instead of filter, they are the SAME,....Its like saying the engine burned out in my dish washer, or I need a new engine for my clothes dryer, What do you put motor oil in,. engines only,......so why do they call it motor oil, If it runs on electricty its called a motor, If it runs on fossel fuel we call it an engine, or a motor, visualize a picture of a 5hp gas engine, ok, now, a picture of a 5hp elec motor, ok Tell me what the have in common,. Remember,... they are both called MOTORS, So you should have a lot of simularties to tell about

 

[cabinman]

A strainer and filter are similar but not quite the same. Strainer a: a device (as a sieve) to retain solid pieces while a liquid passes through. Filter a: a porous article or mass (as of paper or sand) through which a gas or liquid is passed to separate out matter in suspension. Not to mention totally different mounting methods.

GREAT RESPONSE,... I printed it out, gona frame it tommorow, and hang on wall in me offase,... LOLOL

 

[sdnomad]

Can you use black pipe for hydraulic fittings?

I'll start by saying I know you don't want to use black pipe on the high pressure side of the hydraulics. But is it ok to use black pipe or galvanized fittings on the lines going to and from the fluid reservoir tank?
Thanks for everyones help.

Also here are some more pics showing how things are coming along.

 

[Log Splitter]

It's looking real good, Sdnomad. Keep the pics coming!

I'd be embarrassed to show the one I built here on AS.

 

[Mike Van]

sdnomad, lookin' good, you're almost there - I think your valve is backwards? Usually, you push the handle forward to split, then pull it back to retract - If it's a detent valve, it kinks out when the ram comes all the way back. Just an opinion, it's your splitter, you can mount it anyway you want -

 

[triptester]

sdnomad,
Yes black pipe is OK for non high pressure piping. The valve is positioned correctly it just appears wrong because the valve is upside down.

The project is looking good.

 

[cabinman]

Nice

Vary clean craftsmanship, How big is the fitting in the bottom of the tank,?. looks like you streched tha beam for all shes worth, Id like to see a truss shaped web on the wedge end, Nice work keep the pics coming , and hopefully a cost annyleses when you are at the spliting stage, Iam a build it, dont buy it, voter,. Oh yea,.... hows the tounge weight, manuverability,? sure looks like a user friendly splitter, Con grats,...

 

[sdnomad]

Thanks everyone for your comments. Cabinman, the fitting at the bottom of the tank is 2 1/4" wide. I don't know what that translates to as far as pipe size. It is for a screened strainer on the suction side. The strainer was longer than my tank was wide, thats why I had to build that boxed out area onto the tank. I don't know what a truss shaped web is. Is it to make the beam more rigid? I've seen where some weld plates at 45 degree angles between the top and bottom plate of the i-beam. Is that what you are speaking of? I got lucky with all my fittings and hoses. I went to the scrap yard today and they had a crane there with all sorts of hoses and fittings. Picked up a dozen 1/2 and 3/4 fittings and a few hoses for $2.00. I was looking at having to pay $5 to $8 per fitting locally. I don't see how anyone could build one of these without the advantage of a scrap yard. I also bought the axle, hubs, spindles, wheels, and tires at the scrap yard off a small old boat trailer. Cost me $5. Also picked up the iron for the splitter from the scrap yard. It would cost you more to build one if you had to buy all new parts than if you just went and bought a new splitter.

And Triptester is correct. The valve is upside down and does function correctly that way, but I have decide to build a bracket to mount the valve right side up.

Also thought I would mention, the end plates on the tank are larger than the tank in order to bolt fenders on, if I decide to install fenders down the road.

I also need advice on different methods on how to rinse the tank out good prior to fluid. Hindsight, I should have left one tank end off until all cutting was done on the tank. I did place a magnet from a microwave inside the suction port of the tank where I could remove it and clean it when needed.

Vary clean craftsmanship, How big is the fitting in the bottom of the tank,?. looks like you streched tha beam for all shes worth, Id like to see a truss shaped web on the wedge end, Nice work keep the pics coming , and hopefully a cost annyleses when you are at the spliting stage, Iam a build it, dont buy it, voter,. Oh yea,.... hows the tounge weight, manuverability,? sure looks like a user friendly splitter, Con grats,...

 

[Hedge]

Nice Splitter looks like you took time to think it through very well. Nice job on your shopping in the salvage yard, definitely saves a lot of money.. Have fun splitting wood...:rockn: