Logosol Timberjig making climbing cuts

[hammerfore]

I just started using my logosol timberjig again after a couple of years. It worked great and was having fun untill today when it started to make climbing cuts, I recall having and solving this problem before but for the life of me I cant remember what I did to solve this problem. Anyone have any ideas that will jog my memory.

 

[hammerfore]

A little more information. the mill was working great untill the last time I switched between cutting logs and milling them. In other words this problem did not get progressively worse but showed up all at once. My thought is I may have slightly twisted my bar. It doesnt seem that way to the eyeball though. Any way to check this, winding sticks mayme?

 

[abbott295]

Probably your chain is a bit duller on one side than the other. That is typically why a chain cuts to one side. Sometimes I just can't get a chain to cut straight, no matter how much I try to sharpen it, but a new chain usually will cut straight. After wondering about the bar and everything else too.

 

[hammerfore]

Upon a closer exam it seems the rails on one side of the bar are a little higher than the other. Ill fix this and see if it helps. Any other suggestions would be appreciated. thanx.

 

[czbigoaks]

Buy a chain grinder, it will help you keep your chain in better shape!

 

[Marshy]

My advice was going to be to true your bar rails... looks like you already picked up on that. Let us know how that works for ya.

 

[czbigoaks]

Mine wasnt climbing, it was diving. Just glad it didn't ruin anything, except the log I was cutting. Had to loosen u bolts on Alaskan sawmill to get the slab out of the mill. It bowed my bar, not permanent tho. So I bought a grinder then I know each tooth is the same length every time.

 

[BobL]

This is a fine point but it's not essential for the cutters to be the same length.
The underlying idea for the cutters to be the same length is so that all the cutters grab the same amount of wood.
More important than cutter lengths, to grab the same amount of wood the "raker top -cutter tip - wood" angles must be the same.
I call this angle the "Raker" angle but it's not the angle on the top of the raker but the angle between the ruler and the blue line.

If the cutters are the same length and the rakers are the same depth then the angle will be constant.
BUT
I haven't worried about cutters being the same length on any of my chains since about 2009.
This is because I set the raker using progressive raker setting using a digital angle finder.
This results in the rakers heights depending on the length of the cutters but it still produces a constant angle.
More importantly it produces the same angle throughout the life of the chain so the chain cuts like a new one during that time.

If an equal cutter length and the constant raker depth is used the raker angle gets shallower and shallower as the cutters wear.
This means the cutters will grab less and less wood and eventually folks get so fed up with the poor cutting they replace the chain.
Some more details here http://www.arboristsite.com/communi...nts-tips-and-tricks.93458/page-6#post-4107285

 

[czbigoaks]

I don't have the patients to check each tooth. I bought the grinder to do it for me. I just 40$ for it after the first four chains it paid for it self. I keep 3 or 4 chains sharp then if I need one on the job I change it out. Then I set up the grinder off the side of the truck and put my son to grinding, if I need to. It makes the job flow smoother, rather then taking the time to file THE chain I'm using. Filing a 36 inch chain isn't fun, to me.

 

[BobL]

I guess it depends what you get use to and how hard the wood is. I don't mind filing - sort of a quiet contrast between the noise and sawdust of the cutting. Generally I can touch up a 42" chain faster than I can swap out and I don't need to take the saw out of the mill to do it. I touch up the cutters (2-3 strokes) after every tank of mix and swipe the rakers after every 3-4 tanks (no measurements) at all while I'm out cutting. I spot check the raker angle on a few cutters at home at the end of a milling day and usually they're around the 6º mark, if not I reset them all to 6.5º. The chain for the 60" bar is also usually filed on the mill. If I had to swap all the time I would need a dozen or so chains to get through a cutting day. I use lopro on my small mill with a 25" bar - that's very quick to touch up.